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Yes it will select gears with the engine off without effort so the gearbox selector works. The clutch plate must not be moving. I would have though if the trust whatever it is that connects to the slave cylinder was broken the pedal would feel light. It feels normal.

Trued using my e34 530i this morning. I will not get into gear so I can't even drive off. Clutch feels fine I. E no long pedal and plenty of fluid so surely it can't be the master or slave cylinder. So what's wrong. Bloody cars. Had to walk to aldis no bad thing i suppose.

Very nice.

If using laser cx rays or rev I round down by 1mm to account for stretch.

Phat

I'm a star wars fan and both my wife and me enjoyed it without finding fault.

On fact it was the empire strikes back with a bit more hope.

No point in cutting out rust on an common Toyota.

Even grinding back and treating is going to cost a bit if labour. Given you have a snapped drive shaft and that is part that is worth going oem for your bill is going to be fairly substantial. I dont know how much a 10 year avensis is worth but you may not see much change from £1000. I don:t know if your wheel bearing has to be changed for this job but you might as well while everything is apart.

Going to breakers yards can be worth it but for cars you are attached too.

X rated to me.

Just has a drop of the auchentoshan and it is spirity like suntory chita. I think it tastes similar. With a drop of water the flavour changes to mellow but a taste I can't quite describe. Nutty perhaps but not. Lovely though.

Dont forget to charge into each sector as well.

Colder as well. It will change the the partial pressure of the esters and other volitile sue to being colder. Smell is a very important part of taste changing the balance of the smell through temp could alter the taste quite a bit.

Did in 2015. Did the 160km route and its ace. 30mm supple tyres, latex tubes and 55/60 psi and charge although I regretted that at are burg when the front wheel did its own thing. No offs though and a well warned beer at roubaix. I will do it again.

I would not risk 1x heads in lacing. The benefit is small and the flange is at greater risk. With a forged shell it might be o. K the other risk is the bends on the spokes does cause a weakness. It is a small weakness but for the tiny improvement it is not worth it.

I have done 45mm carbon disc brake rims I use with cx rays 24h and a son deluxe disc brake and the flange spacing is rubbish. There is not a huge ammount of flex but if it was a rim brake wheel it would not be acceptable. Being disc brake though and it's for a light lady it is an non issue. She rode tcr on them.

I would replace the spokes with plain gauge or sapim race if that is all the rim can take. I would also ignore lb spoke recommendation. It is a front wheel and under lower tension. Use washers to help protect the rim and limit tension to 900n and all will be well. What lb are worried about is the spoke being stronger than the rim. If you don't snag it the rim won't fail. No other good solution if you don't want a higher drilling rim.

4x is fine on large flange rims on the mavic rims. 4x looks right too.

Hudson rye is lovely.

A little Christmas haul.

The ka va lan is unusual. Tastes of sherry. I need to drink all of it to decide if I like it. The Nikka from the barrel opens up with a drop of water. Divine.

The unpronouncable I have yet to try.

I have an old Kona frame only. 18" seat tube C-T. I have canti's for it and levers as well. I might have a few other bits as well.

I tried reading that book on wheel building once. I got bored and figured i can work it out. I did.

To change the topic this morning commute was possibly more horrid than yesterdays MTB race which was awful. cold wet rubbish ran down my tights into my nice water proof and rather warm shoes. needless to say after a 45 minutes my feet were no longer dry and warm. They were yesterday in the race.

Jwestland - this is why i just sayno to any cyclepath that is mixed with pedestrians unless i am on a plod. yoou just cant make progress and pedestrians are truely oblivious. best avoid them at all costs.

The stans rim is shallow therefore use sapim race or DT comps. DT alpine III is the other choice. Measure erd unless the retailer is a wheel builder and uses the rims so does not just restate the manufacturers claim.

The tb20 or the nemesis are the best tubular alloy rims you can buy. The he'd Belgium c2 would be good if the kinlins was not identical. The kinlins can be built up in lower spokes which is nice.

Sometimes I have to resort to a Co2 cartridge. Also I have found when fitting tyres that are really tight like to a pacenti rim, thin var tape is needed. On other rims which the tyres are a losses as fit, a few layers of thicker stans is needed. If the fit is too tight the tyre won't inflate.

Yes the roads are greasy. It time for pave tubulars or irc rbcc tyres. Oddly I am finding my conti gatorskin tubulars quite grippy, slow but really sticky.

There are rims with nmsw's like the ambrosia nemesis which brake very well. So a machined brake track is not essential. Msw's wear at a faster rate.

As I said fit tubeless rim tape 17mm and tour problems will go away. Also if the tyres are tight get some flat thin levers. Many levers seem designed to pinch inner tubes.