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Have you fully paid them? If not, I would be withholding money until you have a level of finish you were expecting which should at least include smooth plastered/filled walls, with any dents/damage caused by the sub-contractors put right (more filler). Likewise the gap between skirting and wall should be relatively consistent with excess gaps suggesting sub-par plastering, or sub-par skirting installation. It sounds like it should all be pretty quick to rectify so hopefully something you can strong arm them to do by holding back on payment?
How bad is the ply flooring?
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Exactly. There is a correlation between the dominance of predominantly online stores over others today, and the dominance of nationwide stores of yesteryear over other independent/smaller chain stores.
I imagine we will all bemoan the loss of Sigma/Wiggle/CRC when we are buying components on the app store and 3D printing them at home.
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Yes evidence is key, and for this reason it is worth submitting a Certificate of Lawful Development so that there is a carbon record of the previous condition and proposed works (ie: Conversion of 2no. flats to 1no. single dwelling-house).
You are right that it is the contractor who takes on responsibility, so you may want a VAT consultant to confirm the reduced rate. I also believe that not all works are 5% rated (ie: joinery), and a VAT consultant would be able to give you a comprehensive list
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It would be worth checking that the property has planning permission for conversion from single person/family house (C3 Use Class) to multiple occupancy/HMO use (C4 Use Class).
Assuming it does, and you wish to return it to a single person/family house (C3 Use Class), then the works should be 5% VAT rated. May be of interest if you are planning to undertake building works.
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We have our hob on our island partly because cooking is somewhat a social activity, and I wanted the #aesthetic of a nice extractor hood over it. We were lucky that the existing joists ran in our favour allowing the flue to duct out within this zone. There is nothing social about washing and it just becomes a dumping ground if placed on an island as someone upstream said.
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All done/installed at the same time, and the worktop installer cut the insert especially.
Reviewing the options, the stainless steel lid/lip, or the worktop/lip options could easily be retrofitted. Worktop depending, the seamless version could also be retrofitted although would require a someone who took care in their work/knew what they were doing.
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I think there are quite a few different variations you can choose which might explain the lack of prices?
I've had a dig through old schedules, and believe I paid £144.44 (unsure if that is inc or ex VAT) direct from S-Box. There was additional cost resulting from the seamless worktop, and I imagine regular version would result in the lowest overall cost.
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We’ve got the below which looks great, but is rarely used as we instinctively choose to use wall-mounted sockets over the island pop-up one; it’s mainly used as a place to stack cookbooks.
The unit takes up space within the unit below as @aggi has identified so only suitable if you can afford a loss of space within these.
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Following on from @6pt's post, we used Koza Curtains & Blinds in N16 if you're north/east based.
2x runs of 10x2.5m velvet curtains wasn't cheap, but Koza were the cheapest we could find and they threw in some cushions in the same material to help lessen the blow.
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Wave by Silent Gliss is the one! All about the Twin Peaks red room vibes
Scary amount of similarities with my living room, had to double-take when I saw the photo @Sheppz
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I read about your issues with Diespeker, such a shame as their past projects and socials look great. Are you so far along the process with them that you cannot go elsewhere?
In regards to your buildup you want the substrate to be as level as possible so will need to do firing pieces to your existing joists. You may even need to think about a latex levelling screed to the plywood once screwed and glued to the levelled joists (assuming the buildup is onto a timber joisted floor) to take out any high/low points.
You also want the substrate to have no flex which is where the tilebacker/dry screed board in the above buildup comes from. Double ply would also do this but is a lot chunkier and will require a greater threshold strip.
An uncoupling membrane allows some differential in movement between the tiled finish and substrate without cracking.
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It depends on the makeup of the item and how the finish has been applied. If plated, then it will fade regardless of lacquering treatment. If powder coated, then it should last better assuming they don't chip.
A water softener improves the longevity of the finish but can't be used for drinking water locations.