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It shouldn’t scratch at all, if the nylon sleeve in the seat tube is in good shape. Grit and shit gets onto the post and tends to get drawn into the sleeve in normal use, which is why it’s important to keep the post clean and the clamp tension at the correct setting.
To be honest the best seat post is the stock Brompton chromed one. I had plans to tart mine up, until I realised that it’s a practical bike and it’s just better off as standard. Unless you throw shitloads of cash at it you’re just shaving a few grams off here and there.
Having said that, if I sold one of my Moto Guzzis I would buy a ti main frame, fork and rear triangle and really go for it. There’s a place in the US that makes a full carbon steerer, only £1700...
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I don’t have room to lay a bike on its side on a pillar drill, tbh. That would be ideal but doing it by hand is fine. I just use WD40 or Rothenburget cutting fluid and apply it gently over the drill tip from above. As @maynardeames says, you don’t need much, on a small job like a bolt it just helps preserve your drill bit and stops it from snatching. It does help if someone else applies it while you have both hands on the drill, tho.
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Yup, drill speed is crucial depending on what material you are drilling out. The trick with bolt heads is low speed, medium pressure and, crucially, use cutting fluid to lubricate and cool it. Not easy when you’re drilling side-on and it makes a mess, but I got bollocked many times as an apprentice about the correct use of drill bits.
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I suppose it depends where @campervangogh works. If it’s a reputable company with an efficient HR department with correct procedures in place then it’ll be dealt with. If it’s a builders yard then it’s unlikely to end well.
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I’m in. My shop in N16 is a Frog dealer and they go up to aged 12 or so; a 64 (overall leg length, not seat tube length) frame with 26” wheels being the largest. Around the £300 mark retail. If that’s an option then let me know.