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Volvo colours?

Or a Look ergostem for that ergo bonus.

The headtube is so short that you couldn't insert a nitto jag's quill deep enough to make any significant aerogainz. I'd recommend some deep drop bars on one of these:

My prediction for 2021 or after is that "boutique" touring brands will resurrect butterfly touring bars. They're basically the original ultra-flared dropbar/alt-bar hybrid.

It might have been frowned upon back in the days but the tide has turned meaning that functional fixed gears with brakes are now en vogue. With the fork and bridge already drilled you can avoid the dilemma of having a road legal bike v keeping it in its original state. You could try a flip flop hub and see if you like it better as a fixed or a single speed. Cheers for the kind words for my batavus. The geometry is indeed pretty aggressive, it’s columbus slx and rides really well. The mudguards are sks longblades modded with a full extension to cover the tyre around the seattube. The three flaps are DIY additions.

Very tasty that!

Welcome to the Forum :) That batavus track bike looks awesome. I also ride a 56cm batavus professional with riser bars and I really enjoy it. I generally prefer slightly ‘too small’ frames since I prefer the shorter top tube. Judging by the photos, it looks like you live in the netherlands so if I were you, I’d turn the track batavus into a single speed and keep the brakes.
P.s. keep in mind that the track bike has a higher BB, so the standover height of the 59 road and the 56 track should be fairly similar. So the bars won’t neccessarily be lower when measured from the ground but there will be more saddle to bar drop due to the high BB.

Been really uncomfortable on it recently

Ergogrips and swept bars is the answer :)

Mh, that sounds very interesting. I’ll see if I come across a disc hub and might give it a try. Thanks for the tip!

That’s probably it. If I only had one 26er, I’d definitely keep it geared. As I have a few though, I’m definitely tempted by the idea to try one fixed but the fact that 26inch wheels with fixed compatible hubs aren’t readily available is a bit of a hurdle and I’m not quite sure whether it’s worth the effort.

How did you like the fixed gear on the 26er compared to a ‘normal‘ 700c fixed? These old mtbs have about the same bb height as a track bike so provided they have horizontal drop outs, they should make for nice fat tyred fixed conversions. But there seem to be hardly any around. Is it because hardly anyone rides fixed these days or does the sluggish/tractor feel of a retro 26er not lend itself to fixed?

Exactly those, they come with the sets. I made them myself cause I didn‘t want to pay for these wxpwnsive sets every time I cable up a bike. If you only have the cables, it‘s a cheap, easy and effective way to achieve the same or similar braking performance as with the set. Never seen those right-angled hangers but it seems to be an interesting solution.

Looking forward to the Money shot next to the pista :)

Sweet project. I bet the paint is going to look lush once cleaned and buffed. As for the brakes, here's some advice that might save you some headaches. Before you buy any v-brakes, measure the distance between the canti studs. Bikes from that era often have narrower spacing which can be incompatible with v-brakes. Also, if you're using v-brakes, some brake boosters would help stabilise the system since the fork blades aren't exactly beefy. If the stud spacing is too narrow, and you go down the canti route, I'd recommend low-profile shimano ones like the br m650 for example. Set up properly with kool stop eagle pads, they work pretty well. A fork mounted cable hanger might also help with brake judder. With cantis, a proper set-up is really important since you have to make the best of the limited mechanical advantage of the brakes. That means that there should also be as little friction as possible. One good way to decrease cable friction (especially for the rear brake and even more so for a tandem) is to put some slick lube liners around the edges of cable stops. You can simply cut off a 2cm piece, heat it up with a lighter and form a stop on one end of them. This may all sounds like a lot of hassle - which it is - but the marginal gains really add up with cantis.

What about shimagnolo with an 8 speed casette and 10 speed shifters?

Not too bad and still room for improvement with a lighter wheelset. As for the fork steerer, stick a broom stick in it, old-school belgian style ;) (not a serious suggestion).

If it's still functioning, I wouldn't sacrifice it either. I had a broken left-hand 105 shifter and gutted it. Surprisingly, the flappy lever doesn't bother me with this set-up.
The Freddy looks like an interesting project and deserves a cp thread ;)

Nice! Got the same on my commuter. Did you gut the left-hand shifter?

Well done! Have you weighed it by any chance?

Congrats on finding the last missing piece of the puzzle! Looking very good :)
p.s. the seattube decals are missing the mexico hour record, made the same mistake with mine :( These are the period correct ones:

@emerxil drew my attention to this minor imperfection.

Klein-style fades would be "authentic" for an Olmo of that Age:


But you can't go wrong with the fat scheme either.

Non-matching brake levers perhaps.

Shimano low profile cantilevers like the br m650 might solve your clearance issue. When set up properly with good pads, they work pretty well. Took a photo for visualization purposes:
P

Smart! I had not considered that option. But it does sound like quite a hassle compared to a 7sp casette hub.

A while ago I got some scans of Time Manuals for the VXRS provided by a kind paceline-forum member. If there's interest, pm me.