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Nice easy transaction with @danxfitz so would recommend.
Also bought some bits from @vila1979 (who I messed around a little bit) and again nice and easy to deal with.

I spoke to the chap at Micycle. He said they dont rent out any facing tools as they're too expensive/prone to damage etc. He said I should try LBK, which was nice as I guess they're a competitor.
He's gave me a very competitive quote.

Thanks for the suggestions

@xkittyx Many thanks I appreciate you coming back to me.
When do you think your new space will be ready approximately.

OK ta very much 2 both of you, that's a good idea.

Nice one, ta for the suggestions. I've fired an email to LBK and will do the same to Micycle.

I'm looking to do some tinkering with some old forks and frames. I have plenty of tools for assembly but nothing for cutting/extending threads on 1" forks, tapping BB shells or facing headtubes/crown races etc.

Is there a place where I can hire and use these tools in Central/North/East London?

Thanks

Dibs nitto bar ends please. Pm to come

PM on way

Oxalic was what I thinking of

I can second the alu foil, I think it works like a mild abrasive but not abrasive enough to damage chrome etc.
There's old fashioned cleaning product that when disolved in water will remove rust. I used it on an old RD and the chrome and paint came out fine but it dulled the alloy parts. I'll look later for cleaning product, from memory I got it from ebay for £2

PM incoming

2nd dibs on nitto technomic pls

Ta to @jambon for a quick delivery and well packaged items.
A top chap!

I joined it from Clarnico Lane this morning, turning right onto loop road but turning left was closed off.

I've never used a fixed cog can they be flipped over?

Have you measured your chainline?

Would you be better off with cantis instead of home made drop bolts?
I like a fettle myself but with the brakes it's got to be good and solid.
I don't imagine if the f&fs are made with studs they will be setup for caliper brakes especially the rear.
Good luck and it does look interesting

re the chainring if "10-fach" is 10 speed then it's not 1/8th chain so good to go on a 3/32 chain.
I'm not sure you can get half links on 3/32 chains you're options for changing lengths is slightly more complicated and you may have to tweak cogs or chainrings to accomodate the amount of links you have.
There's a web site called something like X63 where you can work out stay length/chainring/cog size.

Re your chain, I think there's a test you can do with grabbing the chain and lifting it off the chainring or you can measure it but I don't know the details.
I use a little cheap tool which slots in and depending on how far it slots in you can determine chain wear/stretch.

I guess changing the chainring and cog might have affected the position of the wheel depending on chain length and and therefore pad contact but slightly pants that your bike didn't fix it. If the chain is OK i.e. not stretched you have some movement on the brakes which allow the pads to move up/down a little in the slots.
you can also get a half link which you can tweak your chain with but you'll need a chain splitter and if it's an 1/8th chain probably 1/8th specific splitter.

I wouldn't take the cables off yet unless you have replacements, the inner will most likely not go back into to the outer as it's been crimped.

That rust on the steel outer core has probably expanded (looks like it's bulging) and is compressing against the inner as it tries to slide past. You could try oiling them but it's a PITA and only a temp measure. If your bike is left outside when you've got new cables you could try "waterproofing" them with grease where the outer sits in the ferrule.

I wouldn't replace the levers (cane creek are OK) if they're working OK just evict spidey give em a clean and squirt of either spray grease or spray lube.

Have a look at this for how to line your pads up.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cantilever-brake-service#article-section-3

You want "toe-in" so your brakes dont squeal.

good luck

if the pads aren't returning quickly you can disengage the cable at the brake pinch bolt and then you should be able to feel if the cable moves freely in the outer. With the cable disengaged pull the lever it should be smooth.
You can also feel easily the calipers open/close like this to again should be nice and smooth.
Just take a note of where the cable gets clamped to the brake so it can go back easily.
good luck

@redefined_cycles, have you sent them the frame number? I did and they replied with year, tubing and makers name. It was after the auction ended so I took a chance on it anyway.
My frame is quite old 70s or 80s don't know if that makes a difference.
Good luck

Hi can I take the mks pedals and crane bell pls.
will pm.
ta

I think you're right about needing to being sealed and I can't quite remember why they're not but they've been up since 99 and I've never had an issue.
Sorted it and cant believe it was so simple and you're correct it was knack related.
Essentially I was pushing up too hard before I twisted it the correct way for my lights is to gently insert and twist them more than pushing.

I have those LEDS and I also have some cheapo chinese ebay ones which claim to be 110 degree.

Thanks I appreciate your time.

@diable
They're in the bathroom. Is moisture connected to the issue in some way?

I've managed to get one of them in (a few weeks ago) but the second bulb is hard and it got me thinking if this goes in the future or the LED doesn't work immediately I'll never get them out hence the is there anything I can like cleaning the fitting.

Thanks