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Yes they are going to take them, I'll update the thread.

Someone else has expressed an interest, I will see if they are still keen. If not, I am up for posting now. Still need to get the BB out but I think I have finally identified which tool is required.

Not heard of magic mountain. Is their stuff well regarded?

front and rear?

Does anyone know what the max rotor sizes are for the original omnium cargo with the horizontal drop outs?

Which is probably a good thing for a novice brazer right? Less chance of overheating things?
Referring to myself here, not the OP.

dibs 5 and 14, PMing

dibs on the carradice and bagman, will PM

£25

further drops

dropssss

You could cheer yourself up every drab morning looking at your own bike :)

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Collection from N16, not posting at the moment.

I have a 12spd Eagle SX groupset no longer needed. The chain is less than 0.5%/mm? worn and I have only used this chain with the cassette. Cassette and chain have both been through the parts washer and are nice and clean. I also have the tool for setting the b-screw, this did arrive snapped but it does still work and I never sent it back. This is for the DUB BB.

11-50t 12spd cassette
12spd shifter
12spd SRAM chain
cranks with 32t chainring
BB also included when I figure out which tool will remove it.

SOLD

Also have some Rival 1x mechanical shifters/brakes, I actually removed the shifting lever from the left hand shifter, they were originally 22. Along with the RD which will clear a 46t cassette. Pretty decent way into a budget 1x system. Will potentially split these if no one wants them together.

SRAM Rival 1x shifters
SRAM Rival 1x RD

SOLD

Level hydro brakes, bled, felt good when they were on the bike. They use dot fluid. Rear was long enough for a 29er MTB with a long wheelbase. Pads have a bit more life left in them.

SOLD

Yes I thought so too. Maybe not good enough though.

The combination you have should work together. I'd start by getting the pads as close to the rotor as you can without them rubbing (make sure your rotor is straight) before you even clamp the cable in. Then clamp the cable tight, I don't think BB7s have barrel adjusters so you will have to get it as tight as you can by hand.
You could even clamp the pads down on the rotor then use the bedding/stretching of the cable to give you some clearance by pulling the lever as hard as you can.

Drop to £250

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Older QR version. Has quite a few scratches and marks but nothing major and no dents. A previous owner applied some cat paw stickers which I removed and they have left a mark where the paint has not faded under the sticker. I think it looks kind of cool but that is obviously subjective.

I haven't measured the steerer but as you can see, there is a lot of it. I don't think it has been trimmed. There is a small bit of something sticky/foamy on one of the fork legs, probably something to protect the paint from some kind of rack.

Geometry here. I don't believe they have revised the geo at all.

All the threads are good. Seat clamp included.

SOLD

Thanks very much! I'll have a look into them

Random one, but does anyone have any suggestions for Warwick/Leamington Spa? Weirdly they don't have a section on Eater or Timeout....

I think the nukeproof BBs and headsets look like very very good value at their current heavily discounted prices, they come with stainless bearings as standard and are all replaceable in the future anyway.

I have a pair 3x7 shifters/brake levers. They're pretty low quality, made of plastic. Welcome to have them. In this thread

Not sure why you replied to me but I'll answer anyway. If the seatpost on a frame this old is slipping, it's possibly just warped/worn. Try a coke can shim. Or if it's really loose, measure the one in there and see if you can get a couple of mill wider one

That looks like it's going to make a great workshop, very envious.