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Anyone want to sell me a cheap mechanical disc for my winter rat bastard?

Your eBay-fu is better than mine. Thanks!

Anyone have any idea what this is? Or if it holds any value?
Can't help but feel 171.5mm crank arms aren't hard to come by

Back to the Prima:

Girlfriend says she likes the pink stripes down the old guards, so tried to re-create that on the new guards by spraying the inside pink.

It's pretty subtle, but I think I like it.

New next to old

Ultegra 6700 Rear Mechs:
To run a 30T biggest on the rear do I need a medium cage or the long cage?

I say "more or less" because I have loads of planned changes still to do...

The Peugeot Ultima is more or less finished.
Pedal Room Here

The Gazelle is also more or less finished
Pedal Room Here

I think it is sold out
See here
Super annoying because I'd promised myself I'd get my shit together this year and actually enter

Full up: to mean - no more spaces?

To race this race do I need to join British Cycling? The mobile site isn't that good

Give me a price list of each part and how much you paid for each part. And then we can all see if it's actually worth what you want for it.

Deeply deeply digging into people's pockets

I'll give you £420 for frame and forks only

There's no way the parts are worth £880

That's not really what this forum is about

You got this frame for £420
Stop trying to make a profit

On Standerts Instagram... can't think of where else to post this - is there a "how not to wear a hat" thread?
Damn, just makes me so mad to look at

What's the ratio? Or final GI?

When I do it I use GT85 on the square taper, tighten it up, then give it a couple swift knocks with a mallet to ensure it's properly seated, then usually turn the crank bolt a couple more times to tighten it up. A torque wrench is ideal, but not necessary

A customer part exchanged this lovely Ken Bird at Edwardes in Camberwell - I think it was done as a time trial build 1x5 or 1x6 with lovely clearances and a Bernard Hinault stamped turbo saddle. I'd really like to see it go into the right hands, unfortunately too small for me. Roughly a 54cm frame, definitely needs a clean and some love. If anyone is interested PM for more info

If you squint and tilt your head you can see the slight difference in clearance between chains depending on if I've pushed it over or not

Bad timing chain line

I've changed the timing chain for 10speed and it is tons better. The bolts on the eBB are imperial (and I have no imperial tools) though so it's a bit too tight. The chains still collide, unless you push the back chain across. So I still need to space the rings apart by less than 1mm to give me decent clearance. I moved the front ring to the inside of the spider but that's ruined my timing chain line, so I need to move that back. Then finally to fix my back chainline, I think I'll have to fix it at the hub as @mdcc_tester suggested.

Will a 130mm fixed hub have a wider body than a 120mm hub? Therefore sorting out the back chain line

I had thought about these. However that with the wheel only halfway back in the drop out, so if I was to change cog on the rear then it still wouldn't be enough

I think @haveo just used nut, bolt and washer(s)
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