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I skidded trough the rim tire and inner tube all flapping about for some terrifying meters until I lost control. Everything mangled but the tire somehow managed another 50k home.
One layer of carbon is peeling from the rim, but could be just the skidding

As per title, I managed to blow a tire out of my wheel in a high speed descent and I'm not so sure how this had happened, but could have ended very very badly.
For context wheels are some rim braked carbon Rovals, brake track a bit worn out. Ridenow TPU tubes and Turbo Cotton tires, again, a bit thin. Was going down a long, twisty descent, temperature was pretty high (I'm in Spain) . I'm a confident descender, I've gone down that mountain, and worse, before and never cooked a rim.
If someone have a decent explanation other than delamination I'm all ears

Small plugs for small holes, big plugs for big holes. Loctite powerflex does help to keep the really bad ones in place, but I rarely use it anymore.
Keep your sealant topped up and don't go crazy with pressure until the fix cures up a bit.

I thought this thread was already finished after yt auto captions called him "ham baby".

I got "ham beanie"

But in most cases the frame is good enough and people it's just fretting because you google creaks and go down Hambinis rabbit hole.
Doesn't help that every professional mechanic have a way instead of having training on a standardized way to do the job. Quite frustrating and doesn't help customer confidence.

I don't think a tiny cilinder of alloy can straighten an offset BB hole in a modern carbon bike, they're way stronger than that. If anything it will stop movement, and that's something you can achieve with loctite anyways.
Only worth it if you're ready to replace bearings instead of the whole BB, and even like that it can be cheaper to get a new shimano PF

Also, Force AXS and Rival 1 doesn't use the same caliper. I think AXS push more fluid so could be causing issues.
Hope 4 pot is rubbing festival anyways, don't know why anyone with a gravel bike bothers.

Open shifter port, push pistons in, close port, center caliper and brake a few times.

SRAM rival 1X. The old 11 speed with cables. I just love doubletap

Swiss top did some blue pads that were supposed to be less abrasive. I'd go with carbon pads, they're usually softer than standard ones

If it's integrated handlebars as well you're in for a lot of fun. I'd rather ask for a quote first

I'm talking about quick releases old. Probably OK if the bike have thru axles AFAIK

Older ones would fit 40-ish

That is new wheel and no warranty for what it looks like an impact. Doesn't matter as it's secondhand anyways. It will fail eventually, get a new wheel from somewhere along the way

I love my ritchey bendy bars but I guess they're a bit marmite

On an external batteries cube we just replaced the battery under warranty. Cost for costumer was twenty euro. Did the same on a Mondraker, all integrated, had to pull out the motor and all internal cables, cost was two hundred. Extreme case but you get the idea.

More integration is more hassle to replace stuff, and stuff will eventually fail if stored in a damp shed.

Fork/headset shouldn't vibrate with rear brake. Maybe isolate the problem first

You don't need UDH for a mullet.
If it clears 46t as 1x it will definitely be fine with a double, the chainring is further out.
Some derailleurs designed for 1x doesn't work well with a double. Better make sure XPLR is compatible.

I'd rather wait to find it's shit, most mounts are straight enough

You can dismount the cranks, add a 2,5mm spacer to the drive side and see where it gets you. Better yet, you can order a chainring, try that and if it doesn't work return it

Measure and draw a triangle. Height is from BB to chainring, base is axis to end of chainring. Now add 2,5mm to the height, base should grow exponentially if you keep the same angles. Now calculate how much a bigger chainring measures. Or just trial and error, 46t is big enough for anyone but racers anyways.

Specialized pathfinder rear and tracer front is what I'm fitting to customers RN. They come super big and not too expensive, good grip, hard wearing and fast enough.
I'd probably go for Pirelli gravel M or something similar if the plan is UK SFAB though, most gravel tires are useless with the tiniest bit of mud.

Take apart the fork and the handlebars, if possible. Check where the levers clamp, where the stem clamp, the fork steering column... I'd check the headtube zone too

Try tire worm covered in loctite powerflex. It may not work at tubular pressures