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Try to open bleed ports at lever and open pistons, sometimes they're overfilled. Check the rotor is perfectly straight, sometimes they aren't even when new. The spring does a lot of noise if badly installed.
You can also try to play with the reach, less reach = more travel and less rub

Rotors should be about the same width I think. You need to open pistons fully and center it very carefully, not a lot of clearance with these brakes when all is new

Look good, stops good, light and not too expensive. Road is the same as MTB ones AFAIK. I changed recently my own rotors to Galfer and it definitely stops a lot better, but the old Shimano ones were well abused, so maybe not a very accurate comparison

I'd say Deore, but you can do 1x10 Cues and get a 46t cassette for decent range. Depends on the use and prices you can find I guess

All I can say it's during Traka week was sickening to see Chads riding too fast and too close to local families dog walkers etc.

They're what I recommend to every customer. Not so expensive if you compare to any other quality rotor.

Wide is outboard, cranks + derailleur. If you get a wide derailleur but have a standard width crank you'll have to adjust it all the way inboard to the standard chain line.
I had to bodge this a few times, and it's not great, wide crank, wide derailleur or all standard but avoid mixing if possible

If you have wide cranks get wide, otherwise standard.
I'd probably want no smaller than 45 for gravel anyways so wide is better IMO

The 1x derailleur clears a 46t fine, but you'll probably have not enough chain wrap to go through all the gears.
Never tried myself, just as far as the 1x derailleur in a double and that didn't work very well.

If it's 1x almost surely yes, 2x no.

Front ring size doesn't matter, only jump between chainrings, and it's all the same in AXS.

This. Do the spoke calc for standard 32h with crossing then do the same for radial. Don't mix sides and should be fine (I think)

If it's pretty badly bent but you still want to give it a try I'd rather disassemble the hanger and smack it carefully back to straight-ish position.
If it doesn't snap finish it with the tool or clean the thread with a tap, if needed.

Seems like only one piston works?

Double points for savvy buyer

I'm not local, but I'm Spanish and been living here for maybe 3 years.
Weather next week looks pretty UK mind, anyone riding this be prepared could be pretty hard going.

It's also possible to crush the olive with a knipex or something similar and keep the insert if don't want to cut

Unplug levers, install levers, chop hoses to size, install olive, insert and nut (it's a different nut in road levers), plug everything together, remove air bubbles if necessary

I use Fizik Tempo microtex, the thin version. Stays reasonably white as long as I don't ride with greasy hands, washable with a brush and some dishwasher

Park patches did well in latex tubes too.
+1 for ridenow too, few months no flats no drama

There's definitely more throw as pads get thinner, with rotors is the same.
First thing I'd do with rubbing rotors is open port at the lever and carefully push each piston back

I'm using X-Sauce I got in the workshop, seems to fix small pointy plant stuff you get around here fine, it's usually going fast over rocky ground what kills them.
Bit of user error maybe, but I had less trouble with other tires. Still got a second pair, they're so fast

About the same. I'm running out of tire worms. Grip in loose surfaces isn't great but that's to be expected with that thread. Not durable, decent levels of grip for an almost slick tire,very fast, looks great in tan wall, doesn't blow out big. There's different variations make sure you buy the expensive ones if it's all out speed what you want

Great setup but ugly frame. Should be more Mtb-like IMO, XC fork and tires

Puncture protection, corsa speeds? Hell no.