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Chainring is way too fat for the build. Do you have a 75 or a zen you could try? Other than that its lovely

Hes making it up

but not 700c (the c stands for clincher)

Is this true? What about 650b? A 700c wheel is the same size whether its a tub or clincher

Bike is strong
Lock is weak

Steel will also cost you a couple of hundred pounds to do properly

@Skant's Orlowski cracked at the BB junction and was repaired and repainted free of charge. Not saying he would have done the same for a tube replacement but hes obviously very reasonable.

You also said how mercian charge £100 for a replaced tube. Find me someone in the UK (or elsewhere) that can replace and alu/carbon tube for that little and I'll eat my words

True but this is a unique example and could have been avoided by having a hole in the BB or airing the frame after wet rides. A small crack in carbon/alu is game over (or hundreds of pounds), but a crack in steel is 20 mins with a brazing torch and can be done all over the UK

is there a need to go custom?

Very few people NEED to go custom. But it means you have something exactly to your specifications (he can keep the geo thats worked for him for 7 years) and something nobody else has, in any colour, not a taiwanese machine build that hundreds of other people have.

I'd disagree with using carbon over steel as well. Given the amount of use this bike will probably get, the ability to repair steel incase of a crack/crash could be important. Ride qualities can be chosen with the type of steel used, geometry and cross section of the tubes

I'll let it dry out for a day or so before filling and shaking with the boiled linseed. Will it wreck havoc on the (unsealed) octalink bb? Drill will come out once the boiled linseed has dried

Orlowski or Rychtarski?

Given they both make very high quality frames there's not a lot setting them apart. I would get a quote from both as for some builds Orlowski comes out slightly cheaper? I've also seen good things about Orlowski's customer service ( @Skant ) which would be a reason to go with him.

On the topic of new frame improvements I'd also consider a 44mm HT and some nice tapered carbon forks for stiffness/weight improvements. psee's Rychtarksi and negaatio's Orlowski are excellent examples of this:

Reading this thread made me check my own Rychtarski, which as it turns out has no drainage holes anywhere I can find. Kind of explains why theres always brown water sloshing about inside the frame after a wet ride.

Should I be taking a drill to it or will a coat of boiled linseed oil inside the frame do fine? Both? Ive taken the seatpost out and hung it upsidedown for the time being. Its full columbus max if that makes any difference (sorry for derail)

Thought as much. Somebody want to sell me a rear 7710, 32H and double fixed? Preferably on its own but I could consider a full wheel

http://www.cheapbikeparts360.com/products/shimano-dura-ace-7710-track-hubs/

This website is as dodgy as it looks isnt it?

If the geo fits you then stick with it but I'd definitely get discs if you were building a whole new frame. Possibly consider better mud/mudgaurd clearance or a nicer tubeset maybe? Not sure how 753 rides but a mix of max/spirit/zona could be stiffer but still be comfy for long rides.

Black frame with orange decals would be classy and still have a nod to the dead IF

I'd cut your losses on this one. Getting a polish builder to build you an exact copy (same tubeset/geo) could come out roughly the same price as replacing every tube except the HT and TT.

^I can supply bars for cheap if you go this route (and like wide bars). VGC

Deda superleggera is aesthetically the nicest seatpost imo and v light. Not sure about length though

I would go 32/32. You wont notice any performance gains from aero/weight with lower spoke counts and theyd only go out of true faster. Especially if you weigh 90+kg.

Save low spoke counts for tarty carbon where the stiffness will be helped by the deep rim. Again, 32/32 will make your Zipps that little bit more special

I've built a bunch of wheels with Comps. Good mix of low price, weight and strength. Alpine's would only make your wheel stronger and make the difference to Zipps more noticeable

Hope/Comp/Belgiums would get my vote

Hopes to some strong wide alu rims via DT Comps or Alpine III's would be an excellent trainer/winter/everything wheelset while you save up for tarty carbon. No point using cx rays unless youre using v light hubs and rims, or deep aero rims with low spoke counts

the ends stay really sharp

Gentle dremel to the sharp bit. Gets it flush and flat. My LBS does this all the time

Mines BSA but was built in the last couple of years

This isnt HoKe's track thread. Im not getting a precursa

The fat tyre was just for fun while i wait to get the og fork back. Then i can run 28s f and r.

Speaking of which, which winter tyre has the best grip and puncture protection? (For the front) Rear will be gatorhardshell. Im not fussed about weight supple etc

You should get a precursa

And not be able to run anything bigger than 25c. How would that help?

Makes commuting through wimbledon common much easier and much more fun. That not enough? Brakes not needed given its all flat and empty of pedestrians/cars

Cross post from rat thread

Fork is off an old bike with a massive headtube. i couldnt bothered to cut it given im going back to the og max fork soon. It did take up all my spare spacers tho