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Yep just spring it apart and put any 130mm hubbed wheel in. Wheel/cassette alignment shouldn’t change much, but if it does you can normally recentre the hub/wheel with the screws on older style slotted dropouts provided the frame has them (most older frames do).
Plenty of older frames will take 130mm. Alternatively cold set (permanently bend) the dropouts apart out so they stay at 130mm then get lbs to adjust hanger so derailleur sits straight (again should hardly change but more of an issue with more speeds).
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Less peated Islay or less peated specifically?
Bruichladdich (Islay barley releases prob best) and the 100% Islay kilchoman are gonna be your safest bets for the former, and a pretty much any other whisky for the latter. Kilkerran 12 has been a strong favourite of mine for the last few years and the Cotswolds single malt is great. Ancnoc 12 is a nice easy drinking malt if you can find it for ~£25. Tried any highland park or glendronach?
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Oog and the 16 are both great, with the lag much easier to find behind the bar. As mentioned above longrow peated is a great peated whisky from outside Islay. Kilchoman machir bay is good, but I much prefer the 100% islay if you can find it. Malted, peated and kilned on site to a lower peating than the regular expressions which are made from port Ellen maltings sourced barley (like most Islay whiskies), and a lot more fruity.
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Synthetic waterstones are made up of small evenly sized bits of cutting particles (not sure exactly what they're made of) held together with a binding agent. You soak them in water, softening the binding agent and helping to release the particles. As you move the blade along the particles cut the steel, and become unbound from the stone (forming the sort of watery goop) which stays on the stone surface and helps cut.
Yep if you used the whole length and even pressure then that would be the case in theory. In reality I start about a couple of inches from the bottom end (i like to rest my thumbs on the stone as a sort of angle guide) and finish a inch or so from the top on each pass. This causes the middle bit to wear faster than the ends, hence concavity. Also causes my thumbs to wear out, although as of yet they havent required flattening.
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very uniform grits and faster cutting in the stones mean you get an even finish quickly, and the watery goop + swarf that comes off helps to cut quicker. Plus for very hard knives/tools you'd be through the wet dry paper in no time at all, especially on the higher grits. At least for waterstones this is.
I use my dad's 30yr old norton indiastone dry to do all my families' kitchenn knives and it hasn't concaved at all, but they're softer steel. I imagine wet or dry paper would work at a pinch in those cases.
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I hated global handles (v slippy when hands wet or sweaty and wrong shape for me) and found the balance a bit off actually. Settled on tojiro after walking into nisbets and testing all there knives. Found most of the German shapes quite big, heavy and cumbersome.