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Mine were from a UK-based seller, so hopefully your US ones are legit!

If you ordered them through eBay, from a particular supplier (can't remember the name), you may want to check that the balls inside are actually ceramic (pry-off the seal with a scalpel blade).
If the balls are silver and shiny (and not grey/black, or possibly white), you've been 'done'.
I only mention as I purchased four, not at the same time, and one was suspiciously light in weight compared to the others, which turned out to be the only ceramic one, despite me having shelled out for four.
Unfortunately I had them sat in my parts drawer for over a month before I realised, and I'd already left feedback (when they arrived), so CBA raising a dispute with the seller.
Otherwise, GLWS!

i don't know, but I don't think it's meant to move. If it's like the above linked photo inside, it appears the only way to prevent the hub from rotating inside the flange thread is using glue. the threads were probably wound onto the hub on during manufacture, with a healthy coat of glue, then placed in a jig to set before laminating/glueing up the kevlar sheets that make the side?

Like you say, though, as long as the hub can't rotate inside the flange, it should be fine.
Edit: to my eye, in the image above, the visible hub threads are coated in some kind of glue/resin, which seems to be the only thing preventing the hub spinning.

Ah yep, I misunderstood which bit rotated. The flange must rotate around the threaded hub shell to tension/dish each half of the disc. Loctite to sort it?

I reckon Scilly is correct. The composite side of the disc has broken where it's sandwiched by the internal/external parts of the hub flange.
You shouldn't be able to rotate this without removing the three flat-head screws of the outer flange plate.
Inside of the hub might look a bit like this:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cronobikes/5513058996/in/album-72157612232975593/

I'm looking forward to finding out who the other forces are in the 'Axis'.

Hmm... I'm being a bit too much of a cheapskate right now, but I might get back to you if you still have it (looking for 28h, ideally as I have a rim ready to build, so trying to find one of those first).
BUmp

Holder for pit stop made from plastic pipe & cable ties - would that work under saddle?
BTA bottle - the more space it fills between arms/behind the hands (without adding to frontal area) the better, no? With smaller like a can of pit stop, negative drag would be diminished.

Ah, thanks for the info.
I'm only really interested in the front hub. I own a rear (that's built onto a CXP33), so looking for a front to build to match. Thanks.

Novatec low-flange (a266sbt) track hub comes close enough.
http://novatecusa.net/project/a266sbt/
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=novatec+low+flange&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xnovatec+a266sbt.TRS0&_nkw=novatec+a266sbt&_sacat=0

Grow a high concentration of hair in that precise area. Buttock moustache.
Or Regaine? Or raid a hospital bin for a casually discarded scalp and graft-on.

Marker pen?

Strip of gaffa tape over the bum crack

Prob. too late but are the Hope wheels (specifically the front) still available?

Jumping on the sell wagon, I just spotted that (last year, on TTF...) you were looking for some 1-1/8" Cinelli Angel bars. I have some for sale (silver). Let me know if you're interested!

What is illegal about them (compared to Aus or Ger)?
Team Aus has a comparable relationship with BT, and Team Germany a similar relationship with FES. BT has a 'submit your query here' online form similar to UKSI with regard to purchasing said frames/parts, and the FES site has revoked access to the entire cycling section of its site (privacy in run-up to Rio, or maybe because I have a UK IP address?)
If GB bikes are illegal, then by association, Aus & Ger must be too.

http://www.biketechnologies.com/bt-edge/
http://www.fes-sport.de/shop.htm#

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/286965/#comment12995595

Uvex Race 4 & Race 6 lids are (at RRP) even more expensive.
http://www.discountcyclesdirect.co.uk/catalog/product.php?CI_ID=20265&O_ID=1

Have you completely trimmed the bracket's release tang?
Tried to fit my rear light (identical to Moon Comet) to my Adamo Attack in the same way, so trimmed the release tang to keep the light shining horizontally backward, but it would never stay like that while riding (tight clearances & saddle flex pushed the light down/away from the horizontal) so reverted to the previous vertical/under rail position. Didn't want to completely remove the release tang because I remove the light from the bracket for charging.
If you can get the light to stay put I'd love to know how (although looks like there might be more space, i.e., saddle rail to shell, under your Adamo TT than there is under my Attack).

Bucket of water helps, too... Use wet&dry paper (240 grit, maybe 120 for initial strokes, and 400 for final strip). Wet carbon is easier to spot (i.e. so you don't sand through it) than dry, especially when it's been abraded.

PM'd RE non-Hope skewers.

:-S ! (Dat chainstay clearance)

Chances are it's one nipple that's loosened about 1/4 turn.
If you can spin it, stop it (using the brake) at the offending point, then check inside the rim for the offending nipple, you'll probably be able to true it with a flathead screwdriver.
If it doesn't work, or you bottle it, take it to a mech, but if you sort it, you've saved yourself a trip.

EDIT: Ignore! Forgot that although it's a fairing disc, there aren't really any methods of determining whether a given nipple/spoke goes to NDS or DS without prior knowledge of the wheel/rim.

EDIT EDIT: The offending nipple/spoke could be identified by counting around (clockwise from valve hole, viewed from DS) using an image of a HED C2 rim/Ardennes wheel (same rim used on disc IIRC) for reference. Looking at most wheels on their website, the first spoke viewed from this angle goes to NDS.

Is the axle of a Jet disc steel or alu? Would not tap if alu..

Riolett Custom Aerosols sell 2k aerosols (with a hardener cartridge inside)...
Handy, but not the safest thing for any backyard DIYer without a suit & respirator.

Fred Aldous in NQ (downstairs) sells Montana Paints (about £8.50/can)...
They also sell spray acetone in a can, which is sooo convenient and ideal for cleaning before applying primer.
Halfords paint is slightly delicate/brittle once fully cured. Apply as thinly as you can with primer and base coat. The thicker the paint becomes, the more likely it'll chip later (weird sort of logic).