Search results for:

Someone should give him a +1t larger sprocket; might make him cheer up. Agonising to watch.

Got a silver -17 but not in black. Near mint. £30 posted.

@skinny 's posted image above, Hayley's arm trip strips look a bit twisted... Assumed off placement adversely affected efficiency. @xavierdisley be having words...? :-)

EDIT: great result BTW; well done, Aerocoach.

... As long as it's operable from the bars' widest point.

Hey Adam!
Little post-work jolly as the weather was nice. Haven't ridden in town for a couple of months but WTF... Many routes previously navigable by bike (even with all the works going on) now aren't. Got sick of it so just turned around to go home. Classic Manc council infrastructure balls-up.
Chap on black Harry Hall track frame, overgeared/laboured pedalling style, rolled past me (RLJ) at Bridgewater Way/Manc. Way RAB lights. Got to be on here?

Show us a picture of the disc/hub and someone might be able to give you an educated guess at which bearing. Otherwise, you may need to buy some vernier calipers.

I rarely ride in the middle of town, or near oxford/wilslow road at the moment.

Forgot to measure mine (sorry!) but steerer is less than 20cm, so would be too short also. Apologies for the delay.

You mustn't have read my post.

Must just be me/my previous bikes/pedalling style then :-(

Anyone on here find recent CAAD top tubes far too wide?
I've been riding a CAAD8 (from factory Sora-equipped bike, w/BSA threaded BB, @colin2011 ) for a few months, but think I'm going to have to get rid of it because it hurts!
Order of thoughts/injuries/adjustments:

• CAAD8; first road biek, after riding track etc etc...
  
• Developed knee pain on short rides >50km
  
• Figured something to do with Q-factor
  
• Moved cleats inboard to compensate for wider Q of (DA7800) road c'set.
  
• Adjustment caused knees to hit/thighs to rub TT when pedalling, particularly when out of saddle.
  
• Subconsciously began to modify shape of leg to avoid this while pedalling, particularly when out of saddle.
  
• Developed hip pain of rides around 50km as a result...
  
  

Anybody else experienced this/found a resolution?
I stripped the parts and put them on an old Raleigh 531C frame (skinny top tube) and it feels (heavy, but) sublime by comparison, so If anyone wants a (raw) 'dale frameset, let me know.

Not sure if I'd risk that. Never ridden a DC course in any condition.

@umop3pisdn haha!
Structural skin disc or spoked? Need for wheel stiffness would also increase in importance, relative to aero, when caning it.

@badmanlongtime

Thanks! Gear bros. :-)

Did my first proper 25 today, in steady/intermittently heavy rain, on J2/9 in Cheshire, with plenty of standing water masking its numerous ruts and potholes.
Did 00:57:10 on 97" fixed.
Much preferred the rhythm of a 25 to flat-out 10 pace. Looking forward to giving the same course a crack on a dry day! Javelin visor wiping every km was a PITA.

Not Alpina-branded but I have the same fork (the 'F-04'), taken from my gf's Bianchi Pista Concept 2003, which was nicked (while fitted with a road fork), so just the fork remains.
Not sure on steerer length; est. 185mm (will check if interested), and it's been drilled to accept a brake. PM if interested and I'll measure and send pics. £60 posted.

Ah, thanks, good to know.
I've measured Sapim nipples on the past and the length of thread between 12 & 14mm does not change.

Might be wrong, but I believe length of thread in nipples of varying sizes does not change.
Extra length is not threaded, and just there to support a spoke when used with a thick rim.

I believe Kinlin's stated ERD isn't too accurate.
(Rim dia.) 633 - (2 x rim depth)/(2 x 22) = 589mm
589 - (2 x spoke bed/outer wall thickness)/(2 x 2.0mm) = 593mm.
Then, usually, (2 x 2mm) or (2 x 3mm)/(2 x approx. height of nipple base) is added to the above to calculate ERD, meaning the actual rim ERD is at least 597mm, and probably greater.

Because tubeless?
Would probably work (assuming those ERDs are correct; -2.0mm of spoke inside each nipple) but not ideal and wheel would be more fragile.
Archetype would be a better match as a replacement if you don't need tubeless, because its spoke bed is within 1mm of the rim you're looking to replace.
Have you measured those ERDs yourself, or are they the manufacturer's stated values?

Nobody's posted about this yet, so:
http://www.engineeredtogether.com/
http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/product-news/team-gb-olympic-track-bike-231540?trend=BC-track-bike

Yep, precisely that.
Air in the build chamber is removed/replaced with an inert gas before the laser starts its work (steel uses nitrogen, titanium requires argon), but while a forged billet part is 100% 'solid' (or so you'd hope), a 3d-printed part is not.

How solid (in terms of the percentage) are the parts that your DMLS machine produces?
My only worry (great thread btw, I love nerdy DIY stuff like this), despite all the FEA and safety factors you've shown us, is that because laser sintered metal is never going to be 100% solid as a material, this, combined with the extent of your weight reduction, could make the end result a bit more brittle and fragile than you might be expecting.

Top tip!

EDIT: Hip hop top tip!