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When a man is tired of SRAM, he is tired of life.

Some long paragraphs for somebody who doesn't care.

What does that have to do with anything?

I'm sorry, but this post is largely rubbish and also manages to miss the point. It doesn't matter how successful they were at flipping it, the intention was clearly there. Just because they're a shit arsehole flipper doesn't mean they're not an arsehole flipper.

There's also a possibility he accepted a cash in hand offer via PM and accepted a very low offer to skirt fees etc. It happens.

The attitude "there are worse out there, so why not bother them instead!" is also pretty terrible.

What an arsehole

@Arnomatic - thanks, I'm just going to have to suck it up and buy an offset NW I guess.

@PhilDAS - I didn't know that and now I do, thanks.

@fredtc - I started watching that before you posted! Good deal but not black enough...

@Chak - See above. Didn't know, luckily haven't used it...

Currently looking at a Garbaruk NW direct mount version. Any experiences with them?

Yep, it's not a narrow-wide (I was trying to avoid the spend if possible, but may have to bike the bullet). Thanks.

Potentially very dumb question exposing my lack of knowledge...

I've cobbled together a budget 1 x 12 TT setup with bits that shouldn't (officially) work together. The good news is that the shifting actually seems to work fine, apart from when I shift to the big cog on the cassette and it drops the chain. Now I hope not to have to use this too often, but it would be nice to know I have the option if there's ever a half reasonable hill.

It turns out I completely ignored the whole chainline thing, and the chainring is now sitting too far away from the frame, causing too great an angle when in the big cog, pulling the chain off. As it's a GXP setup and there are no spacers being used on the BB, I saw no way of bringing the chainring in at all. I figure I have some options:

1) As pictured - I put the chainring on the other side of the spider, then gradually move it away from the frame with GXP spacers. this is what I have done in the images below and I don't feel confident about it for some reason. Apart from the aesthetic impact, if the chainring isn't sat in the 'lip' of the spider, will there be too much force on the bolts? I guess that's what happens with inner rings anyway? It seems to work, but am I setting myself up for disaster? (I know the bolts are backwards).

2) Get a chain guide (would prefer not to do this re buying more things).

3) Get a chainring with offset (would prefer not to do this re buying more things).

4) Give up and go 2x.

Hi - please let me know if you would consider posting the chainset. I would take. Thanks.

What a great deal that is

I know it's very hard to accurately measure due to masses of variables, but does anybody have any anecdotal evidence of Swytch range when climbing?

Hired an e-gravel bike in the Alps last summer for my wife, and it was a revelation as it allowed us to do some climbs together. It was a Giant with a 500Wh battery and lasted a lot longer than we expected (seem to remember we easily got around 1500m climbing and 60km out of it - she was using it on eco mode the whole time, but that extra bit of power really helped). It was also easy to carry the charger and just recharge when we stopped for lunch etc.

We have been considering buying her something similar, but the battery capacity is always a problem, as we would be unable to take them on a plane, which is something we would want to do a reasonable amount. I just discovered the Swytch from this thread, and it seems a pretty good option, as the 'air' battery is just under 100Wh. We could get a few batteries and take them with us on the plane/in my saddle bag when riding. It would still work out way cheaper than buying her an ebike. It think that it may also be a little more efficient climbing as her bike + Swytch would be way around 6-7kg lighter than the dedicated ebike she rode in the summer.

Any stories involving climbing would be appreciated!

I've used the SK for a while and yet to get a puncture.

But tbf, that's almost entirely outside of the UK and in nice weather. Although they did 2 horrendous wet mixed surface December trips over the Chilterns and Peak District and survived.

I only ride on Tuesdays.

Will I be ok?

I've always seen a lot of negativity towards Gravel Kings on here.

What's the issue with them?

Can somebody please buy this so I don't.

Nice bike - nice price.

I'm 6ft and my medium Nitrogen fitted me perfectly. Still the fastest bike I've owned!

Not sure where to put this.

I received this on Monday for my rim brake set:

Due to the popularity of the current wheel offer, we have run out of the adaptors needed in your order. There are more at the anodiser currently and once we receive them back, we will be able to ship your order. We are looking at 2-3 weeks max and as soon as we have them, your order will be dispatched. You dont need to do anything further and you will be updated once the order has been dispatched. Apologise for any inconvenience this may cause. Many thanks, SSC.

I know some folk were asking about the wireless AXS blips, their ability to work without blip box, and the 3D printed bar end holders for them. I'm still waiting on an AXS battery, which is now turning into a bit of a saga, so haven't tested, but got the part 3D printed and it seems to fit great.

The company who printed (outside of the UK) were really helpful and it only cost £20 for all four pieces. Something to note - when I went in to collect, I got chatting to the manager about what the holders would be used for, and he stated that he wished I'd told him in advance, as they would have printed in a different material. Turns out they used PLA, which is not very durable outdoors. He offered to re-print FOC in ABS material, as long as the PLA version fitted ok (it does). I think for £20, this offers a nice solution for TT bars and saves the cost of a blip box (as long as you have some kind of master controller somewhere to link the blips initially). The back of the holders isn't so elegant, I'm seeing what I can do about getting some kind of custom rubber bungs created.

I don't need it, but really like the SuperX. What year is it? I can't find that colourway anywhere.

Thanks! I was contemplating 11 speed eTap for my road bike for a while, but the availability of spares is just too much of a concern.

I actually took the plunge yesterday and bought some new Rival AXS stuff. After some reading of other forums (mostly WW), seems there are lots of people who seem to have got AXS working perfectly well with Shimano 12 speed bits. So I bought the following:

Ultegra 12 speed cassette and chain
Rival FD and RD
The wireless blips
Praxis rings for my existing Red cranks (Praxis say they are AXS and Shimano 12 speed compatible)

Need to source a 'master' controller to pair with the derailleurs, but there's a pretty knackered (but still working) Rival shifter on ebay I'm watching.

It's definitely experimental and for now I'm just going to try it on my old TT, but I'm hopeful from comments online that it will work. Worst case scenario, I'll just buy an AXS cassette/chain and XDR freehub/wheelset (would need to buy a disc wheelset for the new TT frameset I have my eyes on anyway).

Correct - that's why I said more than 5mm.

Can it be true HHSRB if there is more than 5mm of steerer above the stem?

Suggests a high probability it is photographed as slammed for the repz, but not actually ridden like that.

Been doing some reasearch, and it seems the blipbox hiding issue can be solved. I was aware of these wireless blips, but didn't do much reading before: https://www.slowtwitch.com/Products/Components/The_Low-Down_On_SRAM_s_99_Wireless_Blips_8220.html

$99 a pair, but they seemed rather unsuitable as bar end shifters (clearly not what they were intended for). Seemingly, you need a Blip Box to initially pair, but after that, it is not even necessary.

I was trying to think of how they could be better adapted for extensions, but it seems a wonderful person has already done it:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5335609

If I understand this right, this means that once you have paired them, you can leave the blipbox/primary shifters at home/give it back to the person you borrowed it from, and then you have truly wireless shifting from the bar ends?