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I quickly modeled it in Solidworks and ran some simulations:

http://imgur.com/a/I37y4

Displacement is virtually identical between the stem with and without hole, which seems to indicate it doesn't make too much of a difference. Keep in mind this is a rough model and more importantly I'm a designer who happens to know Solidworks and not an engineer. Someone with actual knowledge about this should probably chime in. @mdcc_tester perhaps?

Because you kept replying to what everyone said? And because it's ugly.

Now I'm very tempted to sell my current frame, did you get hit with import charges?

My left leg is 1 cm longer than my right leg, I've never done anything about that but always had a slight pain in my back after long rides and just recently put 1 and 1 together and figured the length discrepancy might cause that.

Would cleat shimming be an option, and who has experience with it?

Try off-line, something like a bike shop perhaps?

I guess fixed gear cyclocross would be pretty rad, but not the solution I'm looking for. ;)

I suppose re-dishing could fix it, but the wheel is centered and I'd rather keep it like that. I'll just replace the frame as soon as I can.

Vertical dropouts, seem to be even between the chainstays but can't tell for sure because they're asymmetric for crank / chainring clearance.

String method shows it's slightly out of true, seat tube is 3 mm closer to the drive side. :\ So I guess the frame is wonky and I can't fix that.

I'll just set-up my brakes as good as I can and keep my eyes out for a new frame. I checked the frame for cracks in the paint and other anomalies around the welds but didn't find any so I'll just hope it won't fail on me until I can afford something better.

My rearwheel isn't centered between the seat-stays, I've tried different wheels and also tried putting it in the wrong way around (i.e. cog on the non-driveside), didn't change anything so I'm pretty sure my drop-outs aren't centered. It's an aluminum frame so I don't think I can fix that? Would my best bet be a janky rear-brake set-up or is there something else I can do?

The only reason I consider going tubular is carrying a tube under my saddle. Very euro-pro.

That's what I thought, cheers!

Thoughts on this as a winter wheelset?

http://www.marktplaats.nl/a/fietsen-en-brommers/fietsonderdelen/m858960453-mavic-cxp-22-wielset-voor-najaar-winter-voorjaar.html

Seller is asking €50, would be interested in running them ghetto tubeless with joe no flat stuff. Currently have a pair of Fulcrum 5's so I'm guessing it would be a down-grade, but I'll be mostly be trashing these on singletrack and I don't have any spare wheels at the moment.

Thoughts on this as a winter wheelset?

http://www.marktplaats.nl/a/fietsen-en-brommers/fietsonderdelen/m858960453-mavic-cxp-22-wielset-voor-najaar-winter-voorjaar.html

Seller is asking €50, would be interested in running them ghetto tubeless with joe no flat stuff. Currently have a pair of Fulcrum 5's so I'm guessing it would be a down-grade, but I'll be mostly be trashing these on singletrack and I don't have any spare wheels at the moment.

Put it up against a wall, looks like a serious amount of Scoblebricks™.

http://i.imgur.com/toDQE5O.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/cmgbatY.jpg

Still needs shorter chainring bolts because I only had bolts for a double and a 18 mm cone spanner to tighten the spring on the singleator. Will get a new saddle somewhere soon-ish, but I still need to figure out which.

Nah, only frame- and chain-set can stay.

Stripped my cross-bike and installed the new cranks, waiting for the rest of the stuff. Should be done within a week. :)

I want to keep the option for gears open, I'll mostly be using the bike for (flat, duh it's holland) trail riding now, but if I start racing it gears would be nice I think.

@BrickMan
Thanks, I'll be picking up the 590 tomorrow.

All of them mucho more expensive than Superstar:

http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/i-o-chainring-narrow-wide-style.htm

@daveaa
I want narrow wide chainrings, most of them are made for 104 cranks. Or the ones I can afford at least.

I'm buying a new crankset for my SSCX project and I need some help deciding. I can buy a FC-M590 Deore Crankset with BB but without chainrings for €25 or a FC-M610 without BB but with Chainrings for €40, I'll have to buy a BB for that so that will be another €15.

I won't be using those rings so is it worth paying €30 extra for a newer generation crankset?