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I only need brakes and cables. Any recomendation of cheap brakes that will work with wide tyres?
I've been looking at wiggle but all of them are at least 40€. Which is almost the price of the bike.Buy used brakes then? A full set of decent old V-brakes should fit around wide tyres , and not cost too much.
That said, just because the bike was bought cheap, it doesn't mean that everything you put on it has to cost a lot less than it.
I come across similar sentiments when people buy nice old-ish cars (like '80s Mercs and BMWs) - they balk at buying new dealer-price parts for them on the grounds that the car only cost them only a couple of grand, forgetting that the cars were like forty or fifty grand new.
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Does no one think its a bit OTT. And as a whole bike the frame is too detailed. Does anyone get what I'm saying?
I think it's intentionally OTT. The detail and quality of work are both so high that it soars far and away from "I could have done that."
It invites the viewer to look closely at it, again and again. You don't 'get it' in a single glance. I like it a lot. -
I bought some Cannondale Midweight tights last year, they'll do ya (over bibs) down to some pretty damn low temps.
In other 'Essential Winter Clothing' news, today I found that a sized-down Uniqlo Ultra Light Down Jacket fits beautifully beneath a correctly-sized Rapha City Rain Jacket to create the Rapha x Uniqlo Super-Collabo Ultra City Downy Rainy Light Convertible Jacket.
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Interruptor/Cross-top levers usually feel better than the main Drop levers within the brake system too.
I put them on the Mrs' Space Horse, along with new KoolStop Salmon pads, upgraded yokes, a fork-mounted hanger, a Surly rear hanger and new cables, which, by the time I'd bought it all, cost almost as much as a really good set of TRP Mini-Vs. -
Not sure. I know that in order for a RAID array to exist, all disks in that array must be present whenever the system is running.
What I don't know is whether you can remove a disk (after shutdown), take it to another machine, add/remove data, reinsert it into the array and expect the RAID setup to take care of everything next time you power on.Might be worth trying with a couple of USB sticks for a laugh.
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How has he become part of the problem? by dumping his laptop and phones? I thought that was a very important film. Can't see the fail.
The video belongs to (and was likely funded/made by) Gizmogul, a company committed to providing an alternative to shipping e-waste overseas to toxic dump sites such as the one highlighted in the video.
The moment where matey decides to burn his Mac and further choke the locals still stands out as utterly fucking ridiculous, imo.
At that moment, the audience already knows what burning electronics look like. Dude really doesn't need to burn stuff 'as an example'. He should explain that 'it doesn't have to be like this', and that he, responsible consumer that he is, intends to take his own crap back home with him (ie have some common decency) and contact Gizmogul in order to properly dispose of it. He would then go on to explain why that's the right thing to do.As it stands, the cunt has flown ~15,000 miles to personally litter and pollute an African village.
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1 - If you're quite disciplined, you can run a cloning/backup app like ChronoSync or CarbonCopyCloner as often as you feel like - daily, weekly, etc. If you're not so disciplined, with ChronoSync you can schedule the backups to perform automatically on a schedule of your choice.
2 - If you want to take some time to set up a (hopefully) truly-redundant system, you could create a RAID 1 array. This would mirror data between the drives in real time.
I've never tried it with USB external drives, but if they're attached to your Mac all the time you could try configuring the RAID within OS X Disk Utility, or by using a piece of software such as SoftRAID (which claims to be way ahead of Apple's own RAID solution).
The problem with RAID is that the disks will usually need to be formatted (ie erased) to set up the array. That means temporarily finding somewhere else to store both copies of your stuff.I prefer option 1.
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That relies on being able to make full use of the drop, in which case you'd have been fine with a static BB and magic gear.
If your chain length places the BB at the front or back of the shell (as opposed to the top or bottom), you're shit out of luck and have altered the effective ST angle of the frameset.
Rocker/sliding dropouts still make more sense imo, as they offer more options (now and in future) for different brake and gear types. -
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An EBB has never sounded like a good idea to me. Adjustable dropouts do though, it just seems like the bike industry is pissing about every other year changing its mind. Tbh that's what confuses me about all these dropout 'standards' at present - in 5 years' time, which will be left standing? There's even talk of bolt-thru rear axles on CX bikes now.
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Incidentally, that orangey-red 650b thing on the previous page is currently available here for the worryingly low price of $350 complete.
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Annoyingly, the parts you'd be most likely to damage are the parts that are (for a DIYer) the hardest/costliest to remove and reinstall - the BB and Headset.
Black tape over the bits you don't like for now, ride it through Winter and strip it in Spring if you actually like the frameset. Otherwise move it on. -
Maybe something like the Soma B-Side might fit the bill, but with a longer ST. Slightly less 'dirt-jump' geo.
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