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I find it more comfortable, because the ridges stop your hands sliding forwards.

I also find it ironic you talking about comfort with this bar angle....

nice proportions on that bike. really nice. match the wheels up when you can.

Pumpcast News, Part 1 - The Tonight Show with Jay Leno - YouTube

too good to be true

what is that on the seat stay?

i think it's some weird light stick ting. bounched around the foumrs fer a minute

Yeah that's the bit that bothers me.

you can just rattle can it with rustoleum flat black primer. it will stick to the rust quite well.

thing people always forget though is that the inside of the bike after a few years is as rusty as can be.

if that bothers you then get frame treatment.

I do that to all my frames. Not out of caution, just out of care.

Here's my two pennys worth on this thread - it's less bike porn and more photography porn.

Does anyone ride half these bike? or do they just keep them in showrooms, museums, sheds and polish them every second of the day. I can't take any bike seriously as porn unless it looks like its being ridden, like someone is getting the enjoyment out of it, like its being lived. Isn't that what its all about bike = man+machine in symbiotic relationship?

not to get into an argument, but sometimes it's fun to just build a bike. Plus, it's not easy to do well. Every try it from the ground up? When you're done take a photo and see if it gets any replies in one of the readers wives threads, Let alone posted here.

fair.

yes we is

yes and obviously well versed.

http://www.feitdirect.com/collections/all

best shoes i've ever seen.

Click for detailed: http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0192/8282/products/superclean-lo-toscano-black-05-web.jpg?6535?368

well done. thanks.

highly opinionated thread here.

I definitely need a black finishing kit now.

The Waterford is mine and had bounced around a few thread these past days. Glad you asked about the black parts.

Sugino cranks, nitro bits, all were GOLD when I bought them. Ugly. But on sale. And for a cool 20 I was able to get them anodised black. Look around I'm sure you can do the same. Considered doing it to a whole kit once.

Wheels are destickered Mavics. Fork is a rattle canned pink Stratos. I was taking a hard turn that I wasn't anticipating and ended up off a 2 ft ledge in a full banked turn at about 25 miles an hour. Had I been on a freewheel or not hauling ass while turning I'd have been fine. Front
end came down hard and fork didn't stand a chance. Stratos was imported from Japan. Perfect fit.

Years ago finished product:

Alright. If someone can point me towards an all black leather mid top with out any markings similar to this (but without the Raf Simons pricetag) I'd be indebted.

Anyone? Tanks

really nice classic bike. I don't know why you chose it, but you selected one of the first XC full suspension bikes. I guess everyone has heard of Tom Ritchey, but just to reiterate, he's one of the FIRST and most important people in MTB.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_Ritchey

There are a number of misplaced bikes in this thread, but this is most egregious error. this doesn't fit in this thread at all. This is a gorgeous bike made by Evil, one of the better companies on the planet. Been in MTB for ever and has pioneered some of the earliest and best chain-guides, a part nearly as important and ubiquitous as suspension nowadays.

i believe that particular bike has an adjustable headtube angle.

Dave Weagle heads up the design and he is quite well regarded. He is the pioneer for virtual pivot points. Appropriately named the "DW-link."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DW-link

"The DW-link suspension design was used to win six Elite level UCI downhill World Championships from 2005 to 2007, the highest contested level of the sport. This winning streak made the dw-link the most successful linkage suspension platform in the history of the sport of downhill"

Anyway that there is a sick sick sick bike. It is a different design and you'd be hard pressed to buy a better DH bike.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_suspension#Rear_suspension

Looks like it belongs to this guy? Josh Bender.. Basically just set up to drop off steep cliffs..

He allways had really weird geo/parts overkill bikes..

bender is notorious for huge drops.

Very "ten years ago". Historically very important for MTB freeride, but luckily fell out of vogue.

it's the first successful (from a functional perspective) full squishy. Amp A1 i believe it was called. first company to really put thought into the pivot points. It's a proper McPherson strut with a control arm.

very cool that white bike. He appears to have to compete with a similar climate as i do.

^ With a Turbo saddle with will look lush.

slightly larger image link: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7311/8732406727_fe7d8dda44_h.jpg

quite pleased actually. will have to find something for the Shogun now.

one of these is sitting at the local shop for me. may have reason to pick it up now.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3026/2911215766_179c6673ac_z.jpg

.

the most enjoyable bikes i've ridden were very inexpensive.

and especially for a touring bike.

i'll debate this until i die, but i'll leave this thread alone so as to not be taken as inflammatory. the last ting i'll say is that the farther along i get into my relationship with bikes, the less money i spend on them. it's really all about the builder and knowing which bin to look in.

i understand.

i'm saying that if someone has to ask this question it's because the person isn't fully aware of the variables involved and shouldn't be buying expensive bikes. I would encourage someone in this position to stick to learning to bring old steel Treks (or similar) to perfect riding order for the smallest amount of money possible. and then move on to something more bling.

it's just better for everyone involved. I'll put it another way-- Theres no one answer to this question. it's a matter of whats appropriate. if you don't know whats appropriate then working towards cheap and functional is the answer.

forgive me if i'm mistaken.

if you have to ask this question, then the answer is no... and you should stick with what you've got.

it's immaculate.

not sure it is? try sure it isn't.

hey guys more pictures or my Raleigh, does anybody have anymore info about the frame? i cant see any markings, i would like to know the model and rough year please.

also would people say its worth spending money on to convert to a fixie??

not worth investing (financially) in. I generally think most bikes should be made ridable however.

it will be fine.

definitely leave the first paint on.

huge mistake people make to remove the native coat when rattle canning.

it will be fine.

definitely leave the first paint on.

huge mistake people make to remove the native coat when rattle canning.