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@umop3pisdn didn't mention track use.

This is a track forum. But that aside... Once one learns how to cement tape is harder to use than mastic, messier than mastic, less reliable than mastic and provides worse rolling than mastic.. Why use tape? A tape that is strong enough not to pose a safety problem will be quite difficult to use and nearly impossible to remove from a rim.

Theres also a thread on retrobike claiming you loose about 0.0013% of overall power by using tape vs. glue.

Rolling resistance is tied to the amount that the tyre can squirm on the rim. Using tape is the worst of all worlds. For the absolute minimum rolling resistance one should use a sold mastic such as shellac or an industrial glue such as TEROKAL 2444.

But I use the conti carbon specific stuff. Its harder to apply, and harder to remove. But does give a solid result once on.

No need. The standard Conti mastik works fine and dandy for carbon. Add a little bit of Patex and its good to go.

Tape will do in some cases.>

Never. Banned from most, if not all, tracks. Evil.

So, the cleat difference is simply the colour.

When I asked Speedplay back in the Autumn following the announcement they told me that the Pave pedal must be used with the Pave cleat. They suggested that the standard yellow Zero cleat was not suitable but, in contrast, the Pave cleat could be used with standard Zero pedals.

Seems so - they link to the V2 cleat on the Pave page which is the new, standard cleat.>

The Pave is a v.2 but it is according to Speedplay NOT identical with the Zero cleat. In pre-production, at least, they claimed that while one could use the cleat with a Zero pedal one should not use a Pave pedal with a Zero cleat... I'd venture to guess that the C-clip spring might be beefier... but that's just speculation...

The picture you have there is just the modified pedal body by pro-tour mechanics, so same cleat.

These were to my knowledge not a modified Zero but made by Speedplay using some custom lathed components alonside some of their standard parts (axel, bearings). Cleats are the standard Zero issues--- well typically the Pro which got the carbon sole protectors (thin steel plates) in the bag.

Not sure pave cleat is same, but would make sense.>

According to Speedplay the cleats are not identical. I'm interested in trying to understand how they differ-- beyond just the color of the plastic-- and why a change was warranted... The pedal, of course, is different (cast versus lathed) but I think that was driven only by production and cost.

confirmed the rubber bits will be available separately - it won't be necessary to buy the whole cleat if you don't need new cleats.>

So.. really just a fancy replacement for Sugru DIY?

Handled these a few weeks ago. THey are teh sex

Other than manufacturing issues do they differ much from the pro issued versions?

According to Speedplay they take a different cleat?

Could be a nanogram difference without more precision on the scale.>

That is why every WW needs a precision analytic lab balance.

with at least 0.1mg readability and repeatability-- 0.01mg are also widely available but probably overkill here. Getting them calibrated to a traceable standard (for example UKAS, NIST or DIN) is also a good idea.

big question... all my mechanics are telling me Conti are a pain to fit (this would be Sonderklasse)
And that Vittoria are preferred. This would be Pista Evo...>

Yes. Nylon Contis are a PAIN to fit and the Evos are really easy to mount.

While the Evos are a pretty good competition tyre for most uses I'd prefer my Sonderklasses. The Sonderklasse is one of the absolute best track alrounder tyres available--- the current nylon one with "Black Chili" are not as nice as the older 175s and 165s but still very good (and the new rubber is an improvement). They have really good stick, ride well enough and are pretty robust. My Evos are reserved for special events.

'At the same tire pressure, >

The problem is: we don't use the same tyre pressure. 20mm , 23mm and 25mm tubulars should be all run at different pressures. On the track a 19mm tubular correctly attached to its rim using a non-elastic mastic (such as Shellac or industrial fabric adhesive such as Terokal 2444) and inflated to 10 bar will "perform better" than a 23mm inflated to 8/9 bar. It can be lighter, have typically better aerodynamics and show lower rolling resistance. There is good reason why Conti's no holes bared competition track tyre for wooden tracks, the Olympic, is 19mm. For events such as madison or on cement tracks one wants something with a bit more confort-- wider and lower pressure. That is why the Sonderklasse came in 23mm-- and with the Steher one could even get a 25mm. On the road it's a bit more complicated..

Looking forward to seeing when the aero versions come out and if they are in fact more aero or not!

How can you tell? I suspect that there is way too much noise in the system to tell really if their is any real aero benefit on the road over a standard Zero (or Pave)--- perhaps with the new cleat (whose calling for many of us has nothing to do with aerodynamics).

Could just as well be a Corsa. The internal brake cable routing and chrome was available also on the Corsa. In MTO frames the key difference between Corsa and Corsa extra was the tubing-- it has a number hanger so that makes it clearly MTO, resp. team issue. Corsa got SL, SP or 531 while the Corsa Extra model was designated for SLX, SPX, 753 and MAX. I'd guess Columbus SP as it was a popular choice for big riders on pavé.

've got the build of a 7 year old girl. No chance of breaking anything for me. Ed might be bigger though..

Today's Ti axles are indeed weaker than their steel counterparts but are not weak by any measure. We are not talking about Ti axles from the last century. Most of the 3rd party low cost Ti axles are made of TI6AL4V. Speedplay pedals have inboard needle bearings so the flex of the axle is less of an issue--- a wear issue but not a horribly significant one (the outboard bearings are easily replaced). A number of very large strong cyclists are using Speedplay's Ti Zero and Nanogram pedals. They are not breaking--- in fact when I've heard of axles breaking over the past few years it has almost always been steel and not Speedplay.

No fucking ti axles!

Then just keep it on your bike!

Speedplay Zero Stainless is the one to go for, right? (I ain't no weight weenie).

There are two Zero schools: One gets the "Made in the US" stainless and the other grabs for the cheaper CrMo with its Chinese axle and then immediately upgrades it with a 3rd party Ti axle.

Those aero speedplays are a whole new world of sexy compared to standard speedplays. They arent going to be cheap though.

Why. They seem to be little more than the standard Speedplay Zeros + golf ball dimpled rubber coating on one side. I'm sure you could make them yourself with a few packs of Sugru.

While I like the idea of cleats I'm not terribly certain that it'll make any aerodynamic difference. The roughed up surface of Sugru (from being walked on) versus the dimples of the aero (after being walked on over a prolonged period) or Speedplay's new rubber covers (which should be much softer and more than Sugru)?

Does anyone know where to get Team Telekom pink touch-up paint?

Probably at Boots in the nail polish section. -:)

In all seriousness.. these colours not only came in batches but also fade. You'd be probably "closer" searching through the the nail polish pinks for a match.. If its for a restoration you might want to see a auto paint body shop as it's their trade.

Didi Senf is an odd ball ex-DDRler. He's been a common sight since '93. Timing was good as he fitted in as a mascot for the rising fortunes of German cycling as some of the east German cyclists made first tier-- amonst them Ludwig, Ulrich, Zabel, Hubner etc. It became his "job" and he even opened his own museum some years ago....

Start with a neutral fitting frame. Nothing one way or the other. The Fuji is a good low cost example. A lo-pro is an exampe of what one should not get.
Important bits are the bars, drivetrain, tyres and wheels. I'd start off with used old school tubular wheels-- can be had cheaply since everyone has fooled themselves into thinking they need deeper section carbon--- and go with a nice drivetrain (crank, chainrings, chain and sprockets) and good tyres. A good round drivetrain with good tyres goes pretty far. A lot you can get used. The handlebars I'd buy new and, again, keep to neutral. Can't, I think, go wrong with the Deda Velocita or Pista fitted to a Deda stem. The first act will probably be to collect chainrings and sprockets. They don't have to be Zens and Superstars but I'd avoid cheap sprockets and rings.. For tyres I'd start off with Conti track tyres as they are relatively robust..

What size Sidi would someone who takes a size 11 uk shoe need...

47.. But really depends upon if you fit Sidi..

Not sure why Sidi and a few other reviews recommend going up a size from normal shoes. I'm generally a 10 (45) and genius 5s in 45 fit perfectly.

Sidi's shoe sizes are based on the length of their last rather than the length of the foot intended to be placed in the shoe. Sidi lasts seem to measure longer than lasts used for my "street" shoes. My size 12UK, for example, is 48 in Sidi. If you are really a size 10UK then, I'd suggest 46 unless you are a 10US.. that would be nominaly a 45. Sidi shoes are also quite rigid and use stiff synthetic materials that don't stretch..
You used the predicate "perfectly"... Not sure what "perfectly" means since I don't know whose size 10UK shoes you "perfectly" fit and I don't really know what last-- UK shoe sizes are based on the size of the last used to make the shoe-- you get a perfect fit in a 10... and even if the shoe is really is size 10 (a lot of shoes sold in the UK are not made according to UK lasts but in Asia on foot length) but perhaps a bit smaller.. width too plays a big role since without width measurements a lot of people grab for smaller, resp. larger, to compensate for their narrow, resp. wider, feet...
As an aside.. most people wear ill-fitting shoes.. a visit to an Oxford or Regent Street shoe shop will quickly demonstrate how neither customers nor sales personal seem to be well schooled in "shoe fit" (even Jermyn Street is not quite like what it used to be)...

another yes to cleat screws

Again: Everthing on the bicycle should be preped with some some of assembly paste or lube. Important is, however, to first clean and degrease to remove all oils before applying the paste or lube and use a product that is suitable for the application and materials. The only things that demand "dry assembly" are those components already prepared with lubricant for assembly-- typically a kind of Loctite. Speedplay cleat screws spring to my mind as a common example-- the "blue stuff" one sees on the screws.

Found a copy of the manual I mentioned : http://corrosion.ksc.nasa.gov/pubs/tm584c.pdf