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Thanks guys and great tip with the felt pen worked a treat and mines definitely Y111....

What's an "'orrible noise". I consider mine to make an awful noise when the chain is all gritty and at this time of year even with my new cog, chainring and chain it takes about 150-200 miles to sound grim to me.

If it's a track hub I'd be careful spacing out the cog I wouldn't go more than 2-3 mm as you need to make sure there are enough threads of the cog engaged with the hub. I'm not sure why you would need to redish the wheel.

Sounds like distorted forks to me.

That's what I feared. Any idea how I could check the forks? I can neither see or feel any obvious cracks, dents or bends. Both arms of the fork look like they are following the same line and the straight section of the fork is in line with (ie like a continuation of) the head tube.

I risked slow rides to and from work; there was no obvious change in the way the bike handled.

Thanks.

I suppose I should have added the item I am most concerned with checking is the frame & forks, and any other key points. The wheels I can check and fix as required.

Thanks all. I was trying to avoid the LBS as its not really local and this is my everyday commuter machine ie I need it tomorrow if at all possible.

The wheel doesn't appear out of dish and both blocks were locked on the front wheel. Would it be possible to knock it out of dish as opposed to buckle it.

The bars also seem to be in line but I'll have a closer look. I hadn't thought of that one.

Today on my journey home my nice new steel bike (Pompino, I know some people hate these) which has ridden only 300 miles landed in a crater. A monster of a pothole with a raised bit of road in it. Due to the presence of an artic alongside I as unable to avoid it. To be honest I probably noticed it too late anyway. This was deeper than my feet are tall and nearly brought me down from the jolt; I hit it hard and fast.

My front wheel seems unscathed, the back needs a little straightening but there is no more than 1 mm sway to either side. What puzzles me is my brakes which are cantis were jammed against the rims in both cases. Now I ride with these close to the rim ca 1.5 mm, but given the front wheel was true the only explanation for the cable length change (to bring the blocks to the rim) that I can think of is bent forks. They would however have to have moved the bosses backwards.

Any ideas what I should check or how to check the frame before riding again. It all looks fine to me.

I'm off to report the hole to the council now.

Thanks in advance.

No frame number at all that's a bit poor.

Have looked at my number a lot of times and in a lot of different lights I'm 90% sure mine commences Y111 and there are 8 numbers after the Y. It is feasible the first two 1's are an M but as I say I'm 90% sure its not M. RJK and Brain-Stew are you sure the frame "number" is YM.....?

Cheers

Thanks Brain-Stew I'll have another look at mine and see if it helps me identify the serial number ie is mine also "letter letter number etc". I had asked On-One but unfortunately they don't log the numbers of each order.

Cheers

I've recently got a Pompino frame and can't for the life of me workout what the second to fourth characters of the frame number are. Can anyone who has a Pompino or other On-One frame tell me the format of the frame number.

I have Y??? then a load of numbers. What I cannot tell through all the paint is whether ??? are letters or numbers. A clue may help me identify these.

Thanks in advance.

Am I correct in thinking that V-brakes mount like a centre-pull cantilever brake and that you have therefore just greased the bolt threads for these?

Cheers

Thanks Arben. I was more worried about the brakes working loose if the bolts were only greased. I presumed that thread-locker or grease would not pose a removal issue. As you only use grease do you use cantilevers?

Hi

Just about to fit new cantilever brakes to the bosses on a new frame. I've greased the posts but don't know what to do about the threads. These threads are not to be torqued too tight as this would restrict brake motion and can deform the post. I would normally grease threads (marine grease) but yesterday read a post by Lennard Zinn, which I can no longer find, which advocated the use of thread-locker.

I have a wide variety of greases and Loctite 222 and 243 thread-locker. My concern over the use of thread-locker is I have a steel frame and this is a commuter bike and will be used every day in all weathers. I suspect the frame threads will develop an orange-brown allergic reaction to water if not greased!

Any thoughts? Cheers

I've got a new steel frame and forks to build into a bike, obviously. Before I do I want to rust proof, or at least rust hinder the innards. I've read posts about Framesaver and an alternative Waxoyl by Hammerite which I have a can of.

My question is, is it OK to Waxoyl the outside of the steerer column as well as the inside or will this make the stem slip and rotate?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Hi

I've recently got myself a new frame (Pompino) and want to cut the steerer and fit the headset. I don't like star fangled nuts as they trash the frame, yes I know its a minor issue as this is the frame innards.

Can anyone recommend a compression expander thing for a 1 1/8 inch steerer (similar to http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=2218) that can be used in a steel steerer tube. I've read that these are designed for carbon forks which generally have a narrower internal diameter and therefore this would not grip my steel steerer.

Thanks in advance

Interesting ride to/from work on Friday here in Oxfordshire. Managed the country lanes fine but ate tarmac, well ice and slush, on the main road on the way home. I now have the biggest bruise on my hip but will be trying again tomorrow. Everyone at work has me down as mental.

The one good thing about the snow is it was easy to find space in the bike shed.

I hadn't considered that radial lacing might look a bit naff on a 32 hole hub. But now this has been mentioned I think I agree. I don't think I've ever seen a radial 32 spoke wheel.

Is it just a disc brake that causes torsional stress or do rim brakes do the same?

I read somewhere, but can't find where, that excessive play at the spoke and hub interface would cause the flange spoke holes to wear and eventually lead to hub failure. I recall that excessive play could be caused by too narrow a spoke diameter.

Any thoughts.

Thanks all. My first, and only, wheel build to date was with DT Comps and seems nice and tight. There is however more tension in my spokes than my recent shop built wheel so I'm keeping an eye on the eyelets for cracks (paranoid). It's still lovely and true though after many miles.

I guess from the comments I'm OK with the DT Comps and shall calculate and order in the next few days.

Smallfurry - how do I tell if my spokes are de-stressing enough to move in the hub drilling. I assume this would be as the wheel rotates under load and would be hard to measure. Is it simply if the wheel goes out of true?

Thanks

Thanks for the comments. I agree, Zigura, about the cost being low, but I have never known of a hub failing and I'm unsure how catastrophic it would be. ie I don' wont to eat the road.

By the way Zigura what spokes did you use? These hubs have a large spoke hole diameter, hence my other post on spoke diameters vs spoke hole. I am considering spokes that are 2 mm at the spoke hole which is 2.7 mm. Any thoughts.

Cheers

For my current wheel build I have a hub with 2.75 mm diameter spoke holes. Originally I intended to use DT Competition spokes but am wondering if the spoke will be too narrow for the spoke hole and result in wear.

Do I need to go up to the DT Alpine spokes which are 2.3 mm in diameter? Would a spoke washer suffice? If so do I need to plan for longer spokes?

Any suggestions would be gratefully appreciated.

Now it must be time for a beer.

Cheers

Hi all

I've ordered myself a silver set of 32 hole On-One large flange hubs (http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/HUOOLF/on_one_large_flangetrack_hub and am trying to work out if I can radially lace the front.

Does anyone know if these are forged or CNC'd and if they can be radially laced safely?

Cheers

Thanks Colm, will bear that in mind.

If anyone is interested On-One responded with saying they don't carry spares for the hubs, but as you'd guess the bearings are standard sealed cartridge, available at any bearing supplier.

They also provided the following hub dimensions:

Planet X Hub (which I assume to be the On-One ones), flange diameter - 61mm, flange to centre - 31mm, spoke hole - 2.75mm. (hub is symmetrical)

Dia Compe hub, flange diameter - 61mm, flange to centre - 31mm, spoke hole - 2.4mm. (hub is symmetrical)

Hi Hugo7. Thanks again for the reply. My last build was my first wheel build and its still spot on after ca 750 miles, my concern over the eyelets really arises because I have no idea what the spoke tensions are. Whilst the tone of all spokes when plucked are pretty close the spokes in this 26" wheel are at a noticeably higher tension than my 700c pair.

I'll keep the One-on hubs on my parts list and if they reply to my query about spare hardware I'll post it back in this thread in case its of interest to you or anyone else in the forum.

Got to start checking out Rigida rims. £8 a rim!

Thanks Hugo7. That's exactly what my wheels will be used for and will be carrying a similar weight along with a heavy bag. This puts my mind at easy somewhat. I assume the none eyeleted rims have some other means of spreading the nipple load.

Did you build the wheels, or true them at all. Does the lack of an eyelet make the nipples any harder to turn?

My only remaining concern now is that the for the "low end" hubs I cannot seem to find sources for spare parts. Eg I have heard about axles rusting etc. Have you had a problem with the on-ones? I await a reply from them concerning spare hardware.

Cheers

Hi all

I am planning on building myself a set of wheels using either Formula, Zenith or On-One hubs, DT Swiss Competition spokes and either Mavic Open Pro or Open Sport rims.

The Open Pro rims, which are double eyeleted, are fine rims I have a wheel set with these already. What I would like to know is are two eyelets necessary. If I chose the cheaper Open Sport rim which is single eyeleted will my wheel build suffer in anyway other than the heavier wheel.

Cheers