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Thanks for all the advice Oswald. The number of suppliers of the RSL variant seems to be low. I've found some selling 6000-2RSL with no C designation which I assume to be normal clearance, and some C3 but no C2. I'll look on ebay next and failing that I'll go for the 6000-2RSL.

Thanks again for all your help.

Having just found SKF's pdf catalogue I think I know now understand the RSH and RSL designations. These are rubber seals with either high (H) or low (L) friction. I am a bit puzzled why you would want high friction.

I still don't understand the quoted different rpm for lubricants when purchasing pre-greased bearings though.

Thanks Oswald. Do you have any thoughts on the L or H variety?

Oddly I just noted that a different rpm is specified for oil and grease lubrication. This I can understand but I thought the 6000-2RS bearings were pre-greased and therefore should have one max rpm as you are not meant to change the lubricant.

Cheers

I want to replace the bearings in my On-One track hub. Using the search I found these to be 6000 type bearings and people seem to recommend the 6000-2RS for SKF. I've never replaced or chosen cartridge bearings before. Looking on the SKF site and Amazon I can see a number of versions:

6000-2RSL - Limiting speed: 34000 r/min
6000-2RSH - Limiting speed: 19000 r/min

I assume the bearings are going to rotate at a similar rpm to the wheel and therefore the ones I choose to be irrelevant. Any thoughts?

There are stainless steel versions, which are 4 times the price, but I suspect the grease would be gone before they had lasted 4 times as long. Some also have different clearance options C1, C2 and C3. I have no idea what these are. Any ideas.

Thanks in advance.

I have a FSA Orbit X-CX headset and I wish to get another set of bearings. I have found by googling that the replacement FSA part number is 160-6475 but I am sure this is an expensive route to go.

The specs shown were as follows:

FSA Micro ACB 36 x 36d 1-1/8" Headset Bearing Black
Bearing I.D. 30.2mm
Bearing O.D. 36mm
Bearing Type Angular Contact

Is this sufficient information for a bearing supplier or do I just need "Micro ACB 36 x 36d 1-1/8" "?

Any help or if you know the exact bearing part number would be much appreciated.

Thanks

I purchased some graphite lock lubricant from Maplins. It's in a little bottle that has a nozzle you insert into the lock and push in; the pushing action releases the lubricant by spraying into the lock. If you do get any I advise that you do this well away from anything you want clean. I rather stupidly did it with the key slot of the lock facing down and ended up with the graphite lubricant running down the bike and onto my stuff. It doesn't half stain.

Another +1 for the Velo Solo one. The one called "Combined Chain Whip and Lockring Tool" at http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shoptool.html priced at £14.95. It's great and has loads of leverage.

Do you guys use the specified torque or do you just make sure its damn tight? I had a job reaching the specified torque, as I approached it it became harder to retain the bb tool in the bb.

You might benefit from getting the bb shell faced

Thanks. Unfortunately I don't think that is the problem as the shell was faced at LBS after I purchased the frame.

Is facing of benefit as otherwise the bb could go in wonky? Is that the idea?

Thanks adroit. I'll try that tonight, if I can recall where I put the crank puller. Do you use the same torque that the manufacturer recommends?

I recently installed a new bottom bracket, a Shimano 107mm UN55 square taper one. The drive side was torqued to the specified torque and at this point, ie with the none-drive side cup not fitted, the axle spins as freely as when it came out of the box.

The none-drive side cup does not have a lip on it and when tightened completely enters the frame. When hand tight the axle was still smooth, but when torqued up (again to spec) the axle was not as smooth. It still turns but is a bit stiff. I probably wouldn't notice when riding, but it doesn't feel right. If I back off half a turn all is OK.

This really bugged me as I'm a stickler for doing things correctly. I checked my road bike which has a longer axled version of the same bottom bracket. Here the none-drive side cup has a lip and again when torqued to spec was stiff. If I back off a few 10s of Nm all is OK.

What's wrong or what can I be doing wrong? Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Having read through much of this I'm beginning to think I must be a bit of a wuss, old codger, or both as I'm on 44x18 but may be changing to 44x17. I live out of London and have to cope with an uphill commute every morning.

Looks cools. I've seen the trailer before but could have sworn it was coming out this year. Obviously not.

The allen key that came with it worked for me, but it does leave a bit of shackle exposed

Spaceinvader, do you know what size that Allen key is? I don't recall receiving one with mine. The closest I've found is 3mm but it just spins in the bolt head as does the imperial equivalent.

I'd like to know how to get it off. I have one on an old New York lock and its in the way. It looks like there is a countersunk Allen bolt, but none of my metric or imperial Allen keys fit.

I have the same pedals on my fixie, well I swap them to and from the road bike regularly. I haven't had this issue with the tension bolt but those that hold the cleats in place round of easily. Same issue with Time's versions.

If you didn't grease the cleat bolts I would strongly advise doing so, and repeating the application at 3-6 month intervals. Once this dries/washes out these are hard to remove. I had to have a couple drilled out at work by the mechanics before.

What a beautiful bit of tarmac, where is it tibbly? I bet there's not a pothole in site unlike the UK.

I have used waxoyl on the inside of the frame tubes and plugged all holes used for venting during welding. I then rode the bike for 2 weeks during which time I was out on two wet days. After this I examined the inside of the bottom bracket shell (which was heavily greased throughout) and found traces of water droplets.

I am confused as to how or why an inner tube over the seat tube would make a big difference. I would have thought the seat post clamp would have prevented a good seal of the seat post-tube interface.

I also think that one of the most likely places for water ingress would be around the bottom bracket adjustable cup on the non-drive side. This is like a sleave over the bottom bracket and can allow water in.

Also being a chemist who works with vacuum systems I know that the vent holes in the frame do not allow enough air exchange to permit drying of the inside of the frame to take place. Once water is in there it will either stay or react with the tubes ie oxidize or rust.

What's that frame? A sealed bottom bracket is no problem as it's already sealed.

What's the condom thing (in the picture, before someone explains what a condom is)?

I agree that's the reason for considering drilling the hole. Vent holes used in manufacture aren't usually at the lowest point.

Alkali are you implying drilling is a sound idea?

I commute every day no matter what the weather's like. My bike has full mudguards at the front and rear and I would say the bb area never gets minging. I suspect the reason the vent holes remain rust free (if they even do) is because they are not at the lowest points and therefore not where water collects.

The idea of a drain hole seems sound to me.

Do you mean it's a bad idea? If so why?

If I don't drill the shell should I remove some plugs from the vent holes to allow water that gets in around the bottom bracket to evaporate?

I am trying to ensure I have taken all possible steps to prevent water ingress into my new frame. I have done all bar step one on the bikeradar page detailing preparing a road bike for winter, http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/prepare-a-road-bike-for-winter-riding-35690/

All drain vent holes are well and truly plugged as is the base of the steerer column but I am hesitant to drill a new frame. I know this was also recommended by Sheldon Brown.

Are there any thoughts on this matter? Should I drill or forget about it?

That'll be it. Mine's also a large. Problem solved, thanks everyone.

lemonade when was your's purchased? Maybe the factory in which the frame is made has changed or the numbering method. I got mine just post Xmas.