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£55 posted?

Bit late, but...
Down Tube c-c 56cm
Top Tube c-c 57cm

I have a rather unexciting looking frame for sale but before I try, this has been on ebay, but I've been messed around, as per usual, by buyers so I wondered if anyone here might like it.

Its a carlton pro-am 531 piece of steel. Really nice ride, no dings or dents on the thing and its perfectly straight. On a whim I had it powder coated black, which is a shame as the paint was nice before. I then badly lacquered it, and then tried to remove the lacquer. End result, its a great frame, which doesn't look as though it is.

Its worth noting that I had the threads on the fork silver soldered a year or so ago, they've held up well but its been sat for a while and they look suspect. I screwed on the nut of a headset and it goes on, but it rattles around so it may well be the case the threads are gone, but I can't say for sure (have a look at photo three).

The ID number starts with WB1 for those who care, meaning it was built just a couple of months before raleigh closed the factory.

I think the seat tube is 57cm but I will need to check it this evening.

Offers?

Just kidding, £60 posted, or £50 collected from Birmingham, if I'm way off the mark, please say. I'm happy to haggle.

Slightly specific, however, does anyone have, or know of where to find, a back cage plate for an 80's rear derailleur. Mine imploded so i'm lacking one.

Any help would be fantastic,

thanks

I assume so. The front is flush, but the back is recessed by a few mm, presumable so an alley key bolt can sit in it.

Is that what you meant? Sorry if it isn't.

I have an aluminium Kinesis 6061 nice and shiny fork.

I got it a little while ago from another forum, but turns out I can't use a ruler.

I would like £25 posted (as I'm not based in London) please.

136mm steerer with 40mm of thread and it is a 1"

I've had success using cellulose thinner. I say success, I was trying to remove lacqeur, which it did, but also through the powder coat very quickly.

I remember reading somewhere that you can polish the aluminium and then lacqeur it to stop it from oxidising and keep it shiny? I may have made that up though.

And I wouldn't worry about corrosion, unless you plan on running a current through it of course...

Sorry, i mean rub through the anodising. I'm not worried about rubber from the pads being left on the rim, just losing the anodising.

Well I've got a couple of lines, which are more likely to be dirt in the block scraping the rim I assume. But then there are general rub marks on the braking surface around each spoke.

I wouldn't mind having pads which i have to replace often, but don't make the rim look silly..

Out of interest, is there a brake pad, which doesn't affect grey anodised rims? Or at least not as badly as others.

Thats a fantastic thread. Amazing to see family members getting involved, very special.

Ahh, thank you, I'll see if anyone over there knows anymore. It has campagnolo drop outs/fork ends and a 531c sticker on it. So I assume it's of reasonable quality..

So I recently purchased a full and functioning track bike and although, after reading the rules, I realise that doesn't qualify it as a project, my intentions, at this point, are to swap out the mismatch of parts for something more consistent, so almost a project?

However, in all honesty any advice on what to do, maintenance wise and just general looking after of it would be welcomed, as this is a first and i've already almost lost a finger.

In short I must admit I never really understood why anyone would want a fixed bike on the road, no brakes? My mother would despair. However, after lurking around on here for a while, I began to appreciate the simplicity and appeal of them and, as I'm sure everyone has, made the subconscious decision to get one.

I found the bike on a site called goinggoingbike.com, my assumptions are it is a new site, as I haven't seen it before. Nevertheless, I got in contact with the seller, paid more than I could possibly afford and a few days later it arrived.

Now it was advertised as a Ken Bird Track frame, and the chap I got it from explained he had bought it off a gentleman racer at Herne Hill in the 80s, at which point he repainted it (no decals) and fitted a brake for time trialling. All of this is a nice bit of history but not hard evidence of its provenance, I'll put some pictures up of the BB which is drilled and has a 5 digit number on it, so if anyone has any ideas they would be much appreciated.

The components are all odd but okay, some nice mavic 280 rims laced to mismatch mavic hubs, a sugino mighty crankset, sakae BB, cinelli stem.

I'd like to generally go down the 'classy keirin' style, as I'm a sucker for polished metal. I think I'd keep the front brake for safety, but get rid of those levers.

So in summary, any advice would be great and please, feel free to move it!

Not sure I follow. You bought a track bike, then stuck your finger between the chain and sprocket? I really hope you're OK.

Numpty.

;)

thats it, got it in one. i'm pretty special.

Just got a brand new (old) track bike, only to stick my finger in and the sprocket cut clean through the nail into the bloody (literally) thing. Needless to say, the offending machine is in the dog house for a little while. The irony is, 20 seconds before the incident I was informing my housemate that its really easy to lose a finger getting it caught.....

A good suggestion but my time keeping skill don't allow it sadly. The derailleur can't go out further, as the crank arm hits it.

I think its either the old crank, or frame...I'll find out when I have the time

So I've got a wee bit of an issue with flex in the vicinity of the bb area. I thought I'd pop a quick question on here to see if anyone knows anything before I start swapping out parts to figure it out.

To set the scene, this issue is with an 80s carlton 531 frame and what currently happens is the chainring moves from left to right when I apply pressure on the pedals. It needs a fair bit of force to induce the movement, which means to see it I must look down whilst pedalling, so its a bit tricky to pinpoint whats going on.

From what I can tell however, it happens more when I apply force to the drive side, and it may even be the case that it doesn't happen to the left at all and the movement is just it returning to centre. Whats more annoying is the chainring is perfectly straight when going along at a normal pace, but when in higher gears, with the application of extra force, it results in the chain rubbing the front derailleur and I can't move the derailleur out any more as the crank would hit it...

The cranks are a set of old super records and the bb is a second hand campagnolo one i got off of here not too long ago, but the issue was there with the old bb too, so I'm assuming its could be the frame?

If anyone has any ideas they would be much welcomed.

As expected. Cellulose thinner is working! it's attacked the powder coat around the lugs, as area which was particularly thin, but it's not the end of the world.

Ahh okay, i did forget about it at one point...good method though would definitely recommend it

That looks pretty good.

I've found the oven cleaner method to work, except I bought some Mr. Muscle stuff and instead of leaving them white and powderey, it left a pretty tough black crust on it. Which required some serious wetdry sandpapering.

Thanks for the help chaps, I'll endeavour to give it a good going over tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes

Its not alcohol based, the main constituents are xylene and dimethyl ether.

I'm stupid enough to have used two half empty cans of different brands, one was the halfords petrol resistant one, so i'm not if petrol will help?

And as to why, the powdercoat was getting lots of little scratches from being locked up and it was just generally losing the shine it had when it was done. I did it on a bit of a whim really, whilst trying to avoid assignments...so I got what I deserved for being halfassed about it.

Okay, so I'm more of a lurker on here and generally just observe the often entertaining exchanges that occur.

However, I recently had a complete ballsup with some lacquer, requiring me to ask for some advice.

I powdercoated my frame, as the poor thing was looking awful and I couldn't afford a proper paintjob (student prices), and decided to lacquer it. Except once I was finished the coat turned into a kind of speckled weirdness, like the texture you find on cheap car dashboards. Although it looked interesting, like a matte paintjob, it wasn't quite what I'd imagined.

Being the genius I am I got some white spirit and cloth and got rubbing. Half a day later I have a patchy lacquered bicycle.

Does anyone have any inventive ideas for removing lacquer quickly and efficiently, as all this rubbing isn't constructive to writing a dissertation.

Many thanks.

Hello, pm'd you regarding the cinellie bar+stem that TeeTee dibbed, did TeeTee take it or is it still available?

wonder if anyone knows how much i could get for a 1981 Carlton Pro Am frame, it's 531 reynolds steel, in reasonable condition, any help would be great! Many thanks