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...however a lot of other religions/races do this as well, Indians call eachother coconuts, Rio Ferdinand referred to Ashley Cole as a choc ice...
"Coconut" and "choc ice" are derogatory terms :black on the outside, white on the inside.
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I particularly like how he's managed to incorporate the 3TTT logo with the Playboy bunny and the 50 Cent ones.
Strong work!
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A Campag 50th anniversary, 3TTT stem: rare as hen's teeth...
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Not normally a fan of colour-coding bikes and finishing kit.
My mind is unchanged on the subject of tyres, however with Ergos and the rear brake routed through the TT there won't be much cable on show, so if the outers match the logo I can see that working.
This is provided the colour coding stops there: black saddle, black tape and black tyres.
Nice to see a build using a mix of components for different periods for a change.
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"not especially desperate to sell": with a starting price of £299, that's probably just as well.
Mind you, it is a "head- turning & frequently admired bike-a design classic,favoured by pro-couriers,with livery/add-ons that accentuate a genuine style"statement"....
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Looks like you still need a rear mech; I've got a Shimano Golden Arrow that needs a new jockey wheel cage: it got twisted when I snapped the dropout.
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No problem; Chorus only used the version with an alloy arm.
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And the forumenger posting here and the Ebay seller are one and the same.
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The front mech is '92 or '93 Athena; having said that £15 posted is a fair price.
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Treat it just like a traditional loose ball bb, nip and back off
Thanks.
The lack of a lock ring is throwing me a little, there seems to be a lot of thread showing and the difference between too tight and just right is quite broad.
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Fitting a Campag Chorus cartridge BB for the first time.
Do I just do the NDS up until the spindle stops moving freely?
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Fitting a Campag Chorus cartridge BB for the first time.
Do I just do the NDS up until the spindle stops moving freely?
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^^ You can find the spare part reference from here and then Google that.
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...Actually stood watching the bead separate, and the tube slowly start spilling out...
Sounds like the bead isn't seated properly on the rim and/or the tube is trapped under the tyre.
Can't imagine how else the tube could lift the tyre otherwise. Possibly the new tyres have a little kink from storage.. You definitely need to be noting where they blow each time.
I know you know and do this, but i) put a little air in the tube before fitting the tyre; ii) halfway through inflating the tyre go around the rim and squeeze both sides of the tyre twixt thumb and forefinger to free it from the rim and ensure it is properly seated; iii) compare some constant detail around the tyre with the rim to visually confirm it is evenly seated.
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Have been discussed in the past -
Thanks for that. For £100 I'm tempted to take a punt on a 120...
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I want a french BB for DA7600s or SG75's but the amount they cost i'd rather just run them on JIS
French BB don't have a different taper do they?
It's just the threading of the driveside cup that's different.
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...they've also done some DIY fluting on the Columbus SLX top tube & down tube...
!
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Can anyone help me figure out how to remove this stem? My first thought was to bash it with a hammer in case it was stuck but I don't want to do anything reckless.
Turn the bike upside down and chuck a load of your preferred anti-sieze product through the fork crown (Plus Gas, WD-40 or Coke etc).
Leave it over night then screw the expander bolt back in so that it only projects a couple of centimetres above the stem.
Then whack the bolt.
A paviour's rubber mallet is the best tool for the job, but a lump hammer and a piece of wood will suffice.
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Very tidy, may need to sort out the brake levers angle.
thanks, yeah I'll probably sort it out at some point, I'll take off the back lever as well.
With classic bend bars, the easiest way I have found to get the levers in the right position (and symmetrical) is to put the bars on a flat surface like a table top, then position the levers with the tips just touching the table.
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Being so exposed, does your knob need regular lubing?
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http://www.ebay.de/itm/130859955650?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Is this worth fixing up if I can get it for a bargain?
Newbie here.Depends what you mean by "fixing it up".
A concours rebuild? Not a top of the range model, so probably not from that point of view.
As a hack/commuter? Why not?
I would want to pay less than £100.
You are in Germany right?
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^ Interesting read that.
sticks with conventional threaded hs
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