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mind if I ask you what are the bars on bottom pic?

amazing!
bump

no interest?

Oh, this frame is a thing of beauty. Can't stop looking at it.
Good luck with the sale.

sorry, to avoid confusion the thread was moved here. This one is now closed.

Hi I started this thread a few months ago, before the forum separated complete bikes and components. To have it in the right place, I'm reposting it here:

For sale my Koga Miyata Full Pro 58cm. It's a 1989 model, complete with all original parts. I'm the second owner of this bike, it was brought from Germany and I still have the original purchase receipt and the book of instructions. It's equipped with Dura Ace 74xx throughout, my favourite bit being the single screw stem. These are the specs:

Seat tube c-t-c: 58cm
Seat tube c-t-t: 60cm
Top tube c-t-c: 55.5cm
Headset, Hubs, Cranks, Shifters, Seatpost, Stem, Derailleur: Dura Ace
Gears: 16s
Rims: Wolber Profil 20 aero
Tyres: original Miyata Tecnova
Saddles: San Marco + original Koga Miyata
Handlebar: Cinelli, finished with leather

I'm selling this because I haven't used it as much as I'd have liked and unfortunately can't justify keeping it. It's been parked under my stairs for a few months now and I need the space. It has a couple of chips — I photographed the worst one near the shifter — and the Koga sticker on the seat tube is damaged but that's all cosmetic; no dings. The bike is in Hackney, close to Kingsland Rd in case you'd like to arrange a viewing.

Koga Miyata 1989 Catalogue

Unfortunately this needs to go now, it's back on sale for £500.
Please follow dibs by pm, cheers.

Choose a cog with a good broad shoulder

I assume this means getting a hub with plenty of thread for the sprocket, is it? That would allow me to do this:

You can get spacers for the chainline, no?

Is it? If so, do you know a budget hub that'll fit the bill?

If you need an extra-long drop caliper (like 75mm for 27" wheel frames with 700c wheels) then Condor sell a nice one for £17 IIRC.

good to know, I got a pair of Alhongas already, cheers for that.

Now my issue is with the chainline. It's so far off, and I'm struggling to see how to get it straight. The rear spacing is 124mm, and the current hub is 115mm so that needs changing.

The bottom bracket shell is 68mm wide, and at the moment a straight line from the cog position gives me this:

It's way in the bottom bracket, not even close to clearing it. Assuming I change the rear hub, I'm still unsure if it will eventually fit. Here's a clearer line:

Measuring the bolts and threads for cog and lock ring, I get around 24mm of bits on each side, then the hub. Putting that on a scheme against the bottom bracket, I still have a projected 7mm offset on the best of cases:

Somehow 124mm spacing and 68mm bb shell doesn't seem like unusual measurements, so surely there's a dead simple way out of this. I want to avoid buying parts for trial and error, anyone with similar specs that can shed some light?

Next I had issues with the fork. The original fork had the tiniest of damages on the top of the threads that wouldn't allow a headset to screw in. I cut off less than 2mm and it solved it, but the problem was that the stack height of my headset exceeds the length of the steerer. By far. I tried other headsets but none would do. This was not because I cut the 2mm, as the steerer needs to be at least a good centimeter longer for me to have a chance of fitting a headset there. Annoying.

I thought that sourcing a low stack height headset might be a hassle so it seemed easier to get a new fork. Got a cheap, crappy chrome one from ebay that almost makes me regret the £15 I put on it. Crown race fitted, steerer cut and headset in. Progress, finally.

With tyres and rear mudguard quickly fitted to check clearances, this is what I have at the moment:

I might have to use different calipers on front and rear, one long drop and one normal. And looking at the photo it seems like the top tube is sloping, but on the flesh it looks absolutely normal.

This is taking a while and it's a bit more frustrating than I was counting on. First I had an issue with removing the bottom bracket. I tried the bolt and nut trick:

But that was no good. Couldn't move it an inch, so took it to the lbs and again more frustration. We broke two spanners and couldn't get it moved, so the only solution was to use the cup and put together a cup and ball bb.

This might do the trick, still need to grease and get the right spindle measurement before finishing it up. Second hand bottom bracket costed me £6 on ebay so not so bad after all.

Frame collected today from onyerbike. Great to meet you and thanks for the inner tube trick, very useful indeed. Frame looks like an used frame does, some rust here and there but will definitely keep as it is.

Put it together quickly to see if wheels match the frame spacing and it's ok, but the brakes will have to be long drop, something like the alhonga ones. If anyone have some spare lying around, I can exchange for a pair of 'regular' tektros.

Crappy picture, sorry. Tomorrow will get bolt and nut to do the sheldon brown tool and remove the fixed cup of the bottom bracket. I can see it going wrong already. Good news is that the bottom bracket is threaded, so once the old one is out it should be pretty simple.

Got my beater stolen a few months ago and using the racer on a daily basis doesn't feel too right. It's not practical enough and with the wet weather looming I want a sensible mudguards + rack bike. It'll have to be on the cheap as well, and I've been putting the classifieds to good use and getting some parts of fellow forumgers. With a bit of luck this will end up at £250, but I can't guarantee it'll be pretty.

Early next week I'm picking up a Viscount frame, so while that doesn't happen I did some work on the wheels I bought from oldskoolracer a few days ago. Wheels are planet x hubs on mavic open pro, nicely built and true:

The issue is that as they were being used fixed, the front rim had the brake surface a lot more used than the rear one, which is basically new. So I thought it'd be good to switch them.

This is the first time I have a go at building a wheel, and given that I'd need to unlace both rims to make the switch I decided to tape the spokes by pairs so I didn't need to worry about forgetting their position. Can't decide if I should feel stupid or clever.

I also cleaned it all nicely, and de-stickered the rims. I think sometimes the stickers look real nice on good bikes, all pro and stuff, but I don't envisage this ending up as one so I went all clean.

That's one.

That's done.

I also collected brakes, stem and pedals from kat today. I already have bars and levers. Now in the look for a crankset but first I want to see what's the situation with the bb — specially as it's a Viscount. That'll have to wait a couple of days though.

dibs

Pair silver flat pedals
Kusuki 110/22.2
Tektro Set II (smaller)- one set of pads

sending pm

2nd dibs please

god, this sounds nuts. I don't have facebook, can some kind soul post the image here pls?

2nd dibs then. Will pm

oh shame, thanks anyway

what size is this? I could be interested in an XL.

that's very kind, will look forward to it

btw, something with mudguard mounts and a comfy geometry would be ideal. I'm picturing a rusty and unloved british frame that I can spend a couple of weekends restoring.

Looking for a 531 frame in bad condition, it's been a while I don't build something and getting itchy. Not much to spend and want something to keep me busy.

sorry, 26", should've read it proper the first time