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Unlike my solo bikes, I mount and dismount the tandem throwing the leg over the top tube, as the stoker bar and more importantly the stoker herself makes it impossible to swing my leg behind the saddle. This means I much prefer having a lower top tube on my tandem — this is even more of a factor when the tandem is loaded. What you're describing sounds like something that wouldn't work for me, but yemv
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I adore Klampers, total fanboy. Have them on a touring tandem, they are wonderful.
I don't think I can compare it with the hydros I know, because those are drop bar levers and my tandem has flat bar levers. I couldn't say how much that alone makes a difference (a lot, I suspect), but I much, much prefer the braking on the tandem.
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It's great that you have detailed pictures and if this is the seller pointing out the damage, fair dos to them. I'd stay away from it. Looks like a frontal crash, I wouldn't be able to tell whether there's a chance the frame lasts a long time or not (may even do), but an impact like that might also mean the frame isn't straight, you might have issues with wheel alignment, brake rubbing and whatnot.
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Noobie question, but trying to fit new pads and they touch the rotor because obvs much thicker than what was there before. Tried to reset the pistons but they won't recede enough to make it all fit. Does that mean there's too much fluid in the system? Is it a good idea to open the shifter screw (Ultegra) and reset the pads, so a bit of oil bleeds out?
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Holy shit, that's some good work. Nice that it came with the Nitto stem and seatpost. Can't believe it still has the cheapo tyres I fitted just to get rid of them. Is the saddle still a homemade cutout Brooks with zip ties to tension it?
I remember the Nitto rack needing a bit of force to sit on the canti mounts, you'll be the better judge of how much force is too much with the VO ones, but in any case it didn't slide in effortlessly.
Please do, I'm tempted to copy it :)