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Sturmey Archer hub (second hand AW 3) and a bit of wheel re-building?

Given time, table space and YouTube they're fairly straightforward to service - I've been happy with mine on a Raleigh Twenty using a 14T sprocket.

I've used 55mm - if possible try a test hole in scrap / offcut of the same thickness. You might be able to go down to 2" and work the earth pin through if the shelf is thin enough?

Well defined edges preventing the dowel entering the undersized hole? Would just rounding the edge of the dowel work? This might be necessary even with perfectly matching diameters.

If forcing it works, you're still risking the wood with the hole splitting unless it's significantly bigger in cross section than the hole. Plan B could come unstuck (!) due to the glue shrinking as it dries.

I'd have thought sanding holes or dowels would be better than brute force or gap filling. Easy to say at this distance...

I was trying to comment on the bike in the Q5, but yes, the Ka will probably fit as well.
The colour is RustOleum Dark Grey - looks good but chips easily.

The Ka is MrsE's - she won't drive the bigger cars, and it's sometimes convenient for her to drive places then drop me off.
It will fit in the Freelander and Q5 without moving the seats...

It looks like I'm a day late to this conversation:
Raleigh Twenty in a Ford Ka. Needed the stem 'safety' wire removing to allow the stem and handlebars to be lodged in the seat tube.

New posts in the same place(s) as the old?
When we did ours, a lot of time was needed to dig the old concrete out - the neighbours avoided this when they replaced their side by using an extra post and a half panel at each end - apparently staggering the posts and digging new holes was cheaper than the labour needed to put new posts in the old holes.

Edit - sorry, meant to reply to @dt

It looks like he's wanting around the price he paid for it. My guess is the 'home made' element is putting people off, though you're quite right about the ride. I did make him ride up and down the road when he collected it, mainly to confirm the unconventional / hand crafted bits all worked at the time of sale.

Good spot! (= I hadn't seen it)
I sold it to a chap in Telford about 3 years ago - not really a cyclist but he was fed up with the traffic and parking problems, and thought the cycle paths looked usable.

BMX geometry made mine twitchy bordering on unstable with any significant weight on the front. Also scary at speeds much above 25mph - possibly it's just that I scare easily.

Actually using a vintage moped is seen as behaviour of dubious morality in this part of the world - adding latex to the spectacle would probably lead to a mob with pitchforks burning the bike and driving me out of the village.

Trojan Minimotor and a Bown. Much aroma, very little 'braaap'. Also much roadside fixing.

Mine is similar to @BrickMan 's, but no allen keys (bikes are too old) and the addition of a 8" adjustable spanner, plug spanner, spare plug (bikes are both 2 strokes) and hand cleaner.
Especially the hand cleaner, otherwise roadside repairs effectively cost a pair of gloves.

If you know the head shape and diameter, shank diameter and thread length I might have something that would work - not specifically a cycle part, but I can't imagine it being so unusual I haven't got something usable in the workshop.

Mirror screws?

Cheap ones in bulk - sufficiently cheap to treat as almost single use. Either I'm getting clumsy in my old age or I've been buying brittle ones for the last few years: most of mine break before they're worn down. Safety glasses are essential...

Thanks for the thought - I'd been quietly looking on eBay, which has since grassed me up to MrsE via the 'recently viewed items' list...

I though I ought to actually put some miles in before answering, and since then the entire summer has passed. Rides tend to be more a wheeze than a hoot, although I understand Ventolin is no longer regarded as cheating.
It does attract attention (and comments) - some sport is to be found in conversation with club cyclists around the higher parts of the Clee Hills, provided I don't mention that I live there.
However. Either the gears are not right for the local hills, or my legs aren't right for this gear ratio. The solution seems to lie in spending some money: new legs or move house or a different freewheel. If it had been a 'proper' build I wouldn't have started with 48x16 - I can (probably) hide an extra freewheel from Mrs. E. when I get round to buying a more sensible size - I would imagine 18T, but I've yet to read the various gear ratio threads.

Mounting the front light further away from your line of sight makes it easier to interpret the road surface? (Depth perception, visible shadows etc.)
This only applies if you need the light to see by - if you want to be seen, then handlebar height is probably better.
I'm sure this came up in discussion a few years ago, but I can't find it now. Part of it was to do with left or right fork - illuminating the edge of the road or oncoming traffic - with no clear conclusions...

Laser engrave? It would probably need to be done at the same time as the cutting (i.e. without moving the piece) to avoid registration issues.

If you're wanting colour, dye sublimation printing is a possibility although the background colour of the MDF is likely to be an issue.

1950s chain?
If it's been good for 70 years then your choice of oil is unlikely to do much harm.
I use a Castrol ATF applied with a (suitably vintage) Valvespout oiler on my 1952 Phillips - having said that, the chain is relatively new, replaced when I restored it some years ago.

If you google "vintage oil gun" you'll see syringe type things that look like grease guns - the main difference is the washer, which is double acting in an oil gun - draw oil from an open can by pulling the plunger, deposit it by pushing. My late father-in-law had a selection (different sizes and end fittings) for use with his stationary engines. I think they were popular pre-war and largely superseded by pump action oil cans?

Would there be a risk of introducing wood-eating larvae or assorted forms of fungal rot to the roof space?

I gave in and bought a trailer some years ago. It completely changes how you can use a bike away from home.
I am not yet 70, but do have a diesel estate...

This might be of interest, even though it didn't (apparently) lead to anything:
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/130649/
-and some suggestions from 2016 - the davepalk reply may give a starting point for searching?
https://raleightwenty.webs.com/apps/forums/topics/show/13379354