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IIRC polishing used to be recommended as part of engine tuning, but has been up for debate for some decades - at least since I was an undergraduate in the '70s.
The argument for polishing used to be couched in terms of pressure drop across the manifold, and a highly polished surface will theoretically give a higher flow rate.
The argument against a highly polished finish is that turbulent flow gives better mixing of fuel and air - a matt abraded surface finish should be sufficient to disturb laminar flow in most cases.
My suspicion is that with older manifolds, the early stages of a polishing process will remove gross casting core marks, which in turn allows a higher flow rate than the 'as cast' finish, but going on to a high polish will be time consuming and may even be counterproductive in terms of overall efficiency. More recent castings are likely to have a 'better' surface finish to begin with?
I'd take time to confirm that everything lines up correctly, there are no steps or edges introduced by gaskets, no obvious (internal) surface defects, and then put it all together.

If the wall has already been reversed into, and the pole is in the same place, would you want the pole to be the only support?
Having said that, the barley twist doesn't look very structural...

A40 - A49 would take you through some nice places.
B4368 - A458 (Craven Arms - Much Wenlock) towards the Shrewsbury end for the fun of it.

Bear in mind that the nearest w.c. might be a mile above you and an hour's travel away, and going there will be a disciplinary offence costing the rest of the shift's pay and possibly all the week's productivity bonus.

Serious answers in order of preference:

1. Plan in advance and don't.
   
2. Conveyor belts take everything out of the mine. Care is needed, or someone else's shovel when they're not looking.
   
3. Find somewhere quiet and out of the way. The rats (or mice, but never both) will deal with it eventually. However, there is a good chance that a fellow worker will unintentionally find that spot as well - this can lead to ill feeling.
   
   

There are many reasons why I stopped coal mining and went into teaching. Being able to wash my hands before eating is one of them.

Igloo? I suspect you didn't spend your formative years down a hole in the ground, otherwise you'd have immediately recognized an accurate representation of the Thurcroft SO4 working section (Swallow Wood seam), circa 1986.
I've increased the annotation for the benefit of any non-colliers on here.

tl;dr epoxy should work.

I was down t'pit from '78 to '86. All grown up and doing other things before the NCB became UK Coal - the industry contracted significantly after that, with much coal being imported from Poland...

Bolts driven into the roof (and sides) of the roadway to hold spreader plates and sheeting in place - something like 1 inch diameter bolt with a significant nut - mainly to stop loose stuff falling in. The section of bolt between the epoxy and nut is in tension - the excessive length is to reach solid (or at least immobile) strata. Perhaps I should have placed more emphasis in 'coal mine' and (implied) underground. Illustration to follow (not my finest work)

Epoxy was used in coal mines to fix roofing bolts when I was a lad. Admittedly these were several feet long: the resin and hardener came in polythene tubes that were inserted the full depth of the hole then mixed by spinning the bolt with a pneumatic borer. It worked well enough in the '70s (there's a lot of 'roof' to hold up when you're over half a mile down)- I can only imagine things have improved since then?

At risk of asking a silly question - is it an Economy 7 system?
Two elements, one not working during the day, while the other can be switched on manually...

Plough plane?
Looking at eBay 'sold' listings, around £20 for a usable Record - you'll probably still need a chisel for the ends...

I should have been more specific - which subject within Design Technology?

Since the late '80s I've taught Resistant Materials, Graphic Products, Electronic Products, Product Design, Systems & Control, and Textile Products, but have found retirement so much fun I haven't bothered to get to grips with the 'new' syllabus.

Most mark schemes involve box ticking, or at best putting numbers in a boxes. The trick is to understand what the coursework assessor has been told to look for - this varies from year to year. I've also spent time training AQA coursework assessors in what to look for, but not in recent years...

Don't loose sight of your objective - a GCSE grade - where the demands of the exam board and their (new) mark scheme may be very different to comments and observations here, which will be based on 'real world' experience. Comments on here will not be wrong - but may not be what you actually need for your coursework.

It's not clear which subject you're doing - Electronic Products, Systems & Control, or Product Design? The emphasis will change, especially regarding any electronic content - perhaps you should ask your teacher (also likely to be the person marking your work) for a copy of the mark scheme, along with their interpretation of it - for example, you don't want to spend ages on a PIC board if a bought-in flashing LED gains the same credit.

Personally I'd avoid wearable solutions for a GCSE project - you can cover the anthropometrics & ergonomics requirement in the placement and design of the controls without the added difficulties of sizing and fastening things to a moving human body.

Keep in mind the testing and evaluation section - the final outcome doesn't have to be perfect, and your evaluation should include suggestions for improvement or further development - possibly supported by opinions from here!

I used to have a brown Becotide inhaler, similar (I think) to Clenil - used as a preventative, not for instant relief. Also had a blue inhaler for immediate effect - generic salbutamol never worked as well as Ventolin, apparently due to differences in particle size. As I remember they were distinctly different - I'd be surprised if Clenil works immediately, and I have clear recollections of headaches and palpitations from trying too much becotide when I thought it wasn't working well enough.
FWIW I appear to have grown out of asthma (probably a change of environment) - possibly your need is temporary or even seasonal?
It sounds to me like your doc is using a fairly broad and general approach: you need proper and more detailed advice from someone who knows...

Corel Draw FTW

Jet wash using a patio cleaning head - the karcher version seems to abrade our flags quite convincingly, leaving a surface like sandpaper.
Possibly rinse with Jeyes or similar to delay algae re-growth, but consider how much might be carried into the house on shoes and tyres.
Repeat as often as necessary - the north side of our house gets done every year, the other sides seem to last much longer.

If your new paint is classed as 'custom' (which may be as simple as not being a standard colour) it may increase the cost of any repairs or alter the market value of the bike - not necessarily something you'd find in the insurance schedule, but could be used as an excuse for not paying the full amount if you make a claim.
Most brokers / insurance companies will hit you with an admin charge for altering policy details mid term, but not for changes at renewal time...

Camel.
I Can See your House From Here.
On an LP I've owned since the late 70s.
Much nostalgia...

I find paint stripper doesn't work as well as it used to - possibly modern paints are different, possibly modern stripper is feeble, either way it doesn't give a clean metal finish.
I use an angle grinder with a wire brush - having a wheel brush gets you into corners better than a cup, but either (or both!) will work without chemicals. Dust and noise are the down side...

Badge is now glued on permanently and appears to be fading / weathering suitably.

Also, different tool bag straps - fastened 'around' rather than 'on top', so it hangs closer to the saddle.

Different saddle time - another experiment with an elderly (and repaired) B15 narrow, re-covered with three layers of wet formed briefcase leather and oversize copper rivets from a local ironmonger.

I would imagine a pair of 4" clamps would be fine unless you've got a very chunky dining room table.
Mine weigh around 800g each and live in a drawer. The 12" one weighs over 6kg, is rarely used, and is an absolute bugger to store.

I'm in the Clee Hills, about 25 miles up from Leominster.

Eclipse spring to mind if you want 'good', but almost any with a cast frame and Acme thread will be fine - avoid pressed steel or plastic frames, and don't forget to allow for the thickness of protective packing pieces when working out what size you need.

I think the problem with the type of vice at the start of this discussion is the position of the clamp - it's unlikely to stand 50Nm around the axis of the clamp unless you tighten it so much it will damage the table, especially with the clamp being relatively close to the edge.

Fixing a vice to a board, and using a pair of G clamps should get round this - clamping off axis will be better, the larger area will avoid marking the table top, and suitable packing pieces underneath should prevent the clamps from damaging the underside of the table.

Can you cut up one of the kitchen cupboard doors? Glue and screw together to make something thick enough to recess the heads of bolts, and use offcuts to protect the underside of the dining table. Possibly use plain bolts and washers rather than coach bolts - this will make it easier to take apart for storage.

This is starting to sound like a project in it's own right - if it's for a one off job then offering beer money to someone who owns a vice will probably be quicker and cheaper. You can use mine, but I'm in darkest Shropshire...

I've used and abused one like this for 10 years or so without problems (admittedly bolted to a bench) - if you go much bigger then a couple of G clamps probably won't be enough.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cl-cv75b-bench-vice/
It's also possible to spend silly money on a Record...