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Fetch the tissues, those forks are gorgeous.

Would like to see how this develops, I like the old GTs and have a Panterra in the garage, although to small a sixpence for me.

Why can't you mounts v brakes on those bosses?

Why are you struggling with 26" wheels? There are billions out there, and he hubs should be standard mtb oln.

My wife has back issues, we shoved north road bars on her bike so she was very upright in her riding style and made a massive difference.

John Virgo for George Kennedy

Replace Barry Chuckle with Bob Carolgees

B60-r is a good price from Merlin at the moment, I know as I got one :)

Somebody misunderstood when Andy said he wanted a head bag.

Hmmm sounds more like a birthday card funny.

Got a new axle today and new bearings i did look at getting a sealed unit but decided to just keep it as is and freshen it up with new bearings, also got new bearings for the forks and both wheels.

Being an old raleigh you've likely done the right thing, as unless its a 501 or 531 frame it's more likely to be raleigh specific threading in the bottom bracket.

1) As far as I know front forks have always been 100m OLD, but I could be wrong. How far out is it? If its only 2 - 4mm just spread it.

2) As for the rear, that frame looks pretty old so the rear hub will be about 120mm, not 126mm as of newer bikes and 130mm as modern bikes. If the wheels are 130mm or even 126mm they will not fit and you will either need to get new wheels or cold set the frame.
As Vikingfixed said, if you could be a bit more specific that would be helpful! i.e. are they geared or single/fixed wheels?

Fronts have been narrower in the past, but might be worth looking to see if there's any spacers either side of the axle that could reduce the wheel axle. Not so much possible if its quick release though.

With its likely age it might also be 110mm at the rear to accommodate a sturmey archer hub. But this brings you to cold setting or getting a correct hub. Easy answer is to measure the space in between.

Looking good! There is a distinct lack of tweed in the charity shops near me.... I've been after a predominantly green Harris tweed jacket for over 6 months.... I think they are back in fasion

Yep, check out recent suits in places like next, they mainly have a tweedesque style to them.

25kgs is inspirational. I assume the flapjack is dodgy though because of the milk etc?

Everyone on Facebook has probably seen this one, but i think it's great.
http://youtu.be/592m69FPtjA

It is actually my daily ride and only bike at the mo. It's a 54tt and 49st, fits me good at 5ft.9''. I've never known the maker which kills me!! The old owner said it was British made 50's era but I don't know how reliable that is considering he clearly didn't know much about bikes. looks more like 60's era to me, the forks are Rixon 531's that I had cut to size.

Would be really hard to part with it but maybe one day. Cheers tho! :)

Looks like a carlton to me with the wrap over seat stays and the head tube lugs.

Reminds me of a dream I had a few months ago. Post zombie apocalypse came across Eddie Merckx who offered my group a load of cycles. A great way to keep ahead of the herd following us. The group grew in size, including Mark Cavendish. Unfortunately we lost Cav to the zombies on a hill.

Anyway, in an attempt to resolve the tube issues. http://tiredofpunctures.com/cycle/index.html. I was wondering if this would work using foam tyre filler as well, but probably has limited shelf life.

I also second use of a vintage steel bike. Thick steel could be mended by simpler welding techniques, or even bodied with screws, bolts, rivets for a short while. Raleigh bbs are already known to last forever. Simple tools to fix. I guess ball bearings are just something to keep an eye out for, but they will be easy to change in one of them.

Raleigh Record Sprint... I have no more to say

Hmmm 48oz steak, with chips etc, plus a pudding (I don't recall what the pudding was). No meat sweats either.

I did a frame used the metal primer, then colour, and then lacquer. Very tough. Wouldnt hesitate to use it again, but I also let it dry for About 2 weeks.

http://www.decathlon.co.uk/bfold-3-id_8186827.html

No idea what it's like to ride though.

^
But surely this supports the earlier point: the beans were first cooked by application of heat. Then they were canned.

You cooked them again through application of heat -thus turning them into a biscuit(s). Then you decided to cook them for a third time, at which point they turned into something else.

I am not an expert on these matters so can't advise you on what it was that you ate after the third cooking. It wouldn't appear to be a biscuit(s).

Maybe its a double negative type of thing and they reverted to beans?

Triscuit?

Is the chain stay bridge any closer to use an alternative mounting point?

Looks great, good luck on your shake down ride :)

http://sheldonbrown.com/seatpost-sizes-m-z.html

Seems to show that Raleigh did 26.6 for the Olympian and 26.8 for the Super Course

Thanks for your updates I enjoyed them. I love the of building a frame, so you really caught my interest.

Don't let it put you off if that's what you want, front mechs are the cheapest thing in a group set, and because they have less use tend to be lower spec than the rest of the group when manufacturers makes their bikes.

If it is what you think it is you may have bb trouble if you want to change it as Raleighs would normally have a different threading. I just regressed mine and put a square taper axle in it. If it is check the bb width as you may be able to use a threadless bb. I was thinking if I ever had mine resorted id file down the bb and fit one. Good luck with the build.