-
Hate to see someone hanging, so with a few minutes browsing google it looks like you may encounter some issues using the drops with disc brakes unless the brake calipers have compatible pull or something to alter the pull ratio. See near the bottom of Sheldons page http://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html
Mixing shimano and campag I'm not sure if you'll encounter any issues, but you will likely hit a problem with your front mech as mtb and road are meant to have different pull ratios again. It may just be a case of swapping the front mech out.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
What does this mean therefore? Could you possible send me a link to the sort of thing I need to be looking at!
Thanks
http://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html
If you have a Raleigh threaded bb, it means you'll struggle to replace with a new like for like. Choice tend to be refurb what you have, rethread, push fit or threadless.
-
-
Not sure I could do a Gaston, even if it was too long. I'll do a quick and dirty with drops because I can, but am liking the north road option.
Quick and dirty with drops. Id redished the rear alreadyand had to put a different tyre on. Doesn't look to bad on drops though. Time to find some eBay bargains.

-
North road bars sound like a good idea given that older "sport" bikes still had super-lazy seat tube angles - It's also worth considering a reverse seatpost (a la gaston).
I had a path bike once with similar geometry -with 120mm stem, inline post & deep drops I was nearly bent double!!Not sure I could do a Gaston, even if it was too long. I'll do a quick and dirty with drops because I can, but am liking the north road option.
-
First, is it the right size? Those old english frames have miles of top tube. You might want to check and make sure you have a short enough stem.
If it were me, I would use wide touring-style 700c and the biggest tyres that'll fit. Then run SS with probably a coaster or some old centre pull brakes with decent pads.
I reckon swept back north road-style bars and a big old sprung brooks would work best.
It'll probably be quite lazy handling, so I'd build and ride it accordingly.
Thanks for the response. I have an 80mm stem, not great looking, which i think will bring it similar to my Raleigh which has a 125mm stem. I'll put them side by side shortly to check.
Based on the 27" wheels, I should be able to get at least 35s in there with a 700c rim, although not sure if t he width would work. Pressume i just need to measure 35mm at the narrowist point. If I'm going fat, then maybe cyclocross tyres would look nice? Conti Race Kings?
I have a pair a weinman 610s So that parts sorted.
Northroad bars sound a nice option. There seems a be slight variations when I look at ones on eBay. Not too keen when I see them come to a 90 degree sweep, maybe45 degree.
-
Thought I'd pop this up as I'm undecided what to do with it.
It's a Rudge Sports frame I'm guessing from the mid 60s. I think it was a 3 speed as it has 110mm axle width at the back, and I'm confident this would have meant 26 1 3/8 wheels, but it will sit on 27", which is what's you see in the pic, as I have them spare.
It's a rust encased thing, but seems solid. So far, after spending an eternity removing the top race from the forks, I've been able to able to regreese the headset, and bottom bracket with new bearings. The headset is a little indexed, but quite useable. I've also swapped the bottom bracket spindle for a cotterless one.
I can build it up as a singlespeed from spare parts, including the 27" wheels and drops, but I think it may look odd, any thoughts?

-
No problem, this should help you. http://www.ehow.com/how_6552219_measure-bottom-bracket.html
Also the sjs bittom bracket I mentioned http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/prestine-threadless-68mm-sealed-bearing-bottom-bracket-for-frames-with-damaged-threads-prod16505/
As I said I'd been wondering how well the bb works. Unfortunately for me my rudge isnt 68mm. Hope your able to sort it.
-
Cranks shouldnt be an issue at all, i would guess its sqare tapered,so loads availabe, but from what you say its more likely the bottom bracket getting loose not the cranks. If its not 531 or above it's likely to be Raleighs 26 tpi, making changing the bottom bracket harder. It maybe someone on here can suggest ways of stopping it loosening, which may be a better solution. If you need to replace it though, check the bottom bracket size needed, and if it's 68mm there's a threadless one sold by sjs cycles that I've been itching to see if it works.
-
-
Just seen this when browsing the Halfords website, so checked You tube as I couldn't see how it worked. I'm impressed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uh_aq2wqttA&feature=youtube_gdata_player
-
I'd not thought about this before, but love the idea. Did some searching for ready made options. This looks expensive, but is down the right lines.
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tout-terrain-the-plug-hub-dynamo-powered-charging-device-prod23036/
There seems to be cheaper variations, but so far I've only found them in the US.
-
This was what I was wondering about, this guy used polystyrene to shape the core, and then laminate over it.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-I-built-a-carbon-bike-frame-at-home-and-a-bam/step2/Making-the-core/