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Great, thanks. I'll take a look and perhaps next time I can actually know what I'm talking about. :-)

Interesting idea, but I don't know enough about anodisation processes to say, as in, what would be the voltage necessary for a 700c rim.
This is something I will be looking into soon, coincidentally, as I want to remove the anodising from some old hubs and perhaps anodise them a different colour.

I was under the impression that the CSS process is significantly different to the the ceramic coating used by Mavic and therefore could not be termed as such.
I could well be mistaken. I'll do more thorough reading on the subject and get back to you.

If you have any pertinent info and and links on this subject do tell me.

It seems that pads are available for both road caliper and traditional canti for Ryde CSS rims:

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/koolstop-koolstop-shimano-inserts-r4-dura-for-rigida-ryde-carbide-rims-prod36325/

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/koolstop-koolstop-eagle-2-cantilever-blocks-post-mount-for-rigida-carbide-rims-prod19779/

Though this question is a bit besides the point, what kind of width tyres?

If the rim diameter is appropropriate for 700c tyres then it's only 700c tyres that will work on these rims when we're talking about bead seat diameter.
Anyway, interesting thing this 650v, if confusing. I'm gonna ask Graham at Vintage Bike Cave to see if he knows anything about what the designation may mean.

Yes, but CSS is not a ceramic coating. And considering its intense durability I would be really interested in testing its longevity against disc brake rotors. The tungsten carbide coating really is that good.

I've built with quite a few of these rims and to take an example from one case, their complete lack of wear after being used for long commuter miles for two years from a seriously big guy, a 21 stone ex-rower, who rides 100-120 miles a week in all conditions and absolutely luuurrrrves to sit on the brakes.
For context I built this guy a rear wheel using a Mavic XM719, if I remember correctly, and within a month his braking habits and bulk combined to wear the rim concave as if it had been used for a year by a normal sized brake botherer. I was astounded when the wheel came back in for the standard post-wheel build check.
I looked at his Andra rim the other day and the braking surface is virtually unscathed.

Have you actually fitted 700c tyres on them?

Never heard of 650V so I'm curious. What size tyres fit on those? Is it MTB size?
I found with some mediocre Googling that there was a 650W size that Mavic did for an early MTB range, but no idea about 650V...

I was talking about rim brakes only in this respect.

Grizzly seem to be discontinued (which I find surprising - maybe the CSS sidewall isn't all it's cracked up to be...)

Don't know why exactly the Grizzly was discontinued but I don't think it's down to the CSS sidewall. That tungsten carbide impregnation of the rim results in the toughest and hardest braking surfaces I have ever seen. You can still get CSS on just about every Ryde rim brake rim, just usually has to be a special order, apart from certain set models you can order already treated.

I built what will probably be my last ever set of Grizzlys the other day. Sad.

EDIT: I've built many sets of wheels with the Ryde Trace series. I have some Trace Enduros on my biek (they're now rebranded Trace 29's) and they are excellent.

I'll set a ride for the new year soon.

Yeah, takes the drop well. And the rest.

The King's Head in Holmbury St. Mary is sound. Best pub in the area other than The Volunteer in Abinger Hammer.

@IR, @Howard, @LHL, @mmccarthy, et al, here's an Instagram vid of one of those steep runs at the top of Pitch, the infamous Thick & Creamy:

https://www.instagram.com/p/_PtAouwUVw/

No-one ever seems to film the top section and that's the steepest. But then it is difficult to access.

Except that they absolutely fucking hate mountain bikers. The landlady once tried to take a half-full plate of food from me together my with mostly full coffee, trying to shoo me out the door. Many others have has bad experiences there. It has the worst reputation with MTBers out of all the pubs around the hills.
If you're not a biker it's mostly O.K.

Mostly...

What @JWestland says could be a probable cause. Look closely at the eyelets in the area where the severe warp and hop is located, check for cracks in the rims there. If none are there also look at the rim area directly opposite the warp and hop. In fact, just check every single eyelet.

Ibis Cycles Instagram vid of Thick and Creamy on Pitch Hill, Surrey:

https://www.instagram.com/p/_PtAouwUVw/

No edits of Thick & Creamy ever seem to show the top section which is the trickiest, in my opinion. I guess coz it's not such a looker for promo vids.

Interesting. I'll have to test my scale against another one.

Your Novatec/R460 comes out at roughly the same price as the ready made R24s only if you apply no value to the labour. The rim is better (basically the same as you get with the much more expensive R23 wheels), doubt there's much in it between the hubs, and DT probably wins on the spokes.

Yes, I was thinking along those lines if @Bonj0ur built the wheelset himself.
As regards your point about factory built wheels vs. custom I agree. It is always difficult to justify the spend on custom considering the performance and value a good factory built wheelset can provide. I am always in favour of custom built wheels but often the selling point boils down to the customer having the cash to splash on components exactly as he or she wishes, to be set apart from the off the peg offerings.
If you're building for yourself though and buy online then you can get excellent product at bargain prices and have the satisfaction of riding wheels you made yourself, to which I think no value can be assigned.

But, DT Swiss R460 with DuraAce 9000 hubs? I can get along with that for sure. :-)

Having weighed HED Belgiums myself with a Park DS-1 a HED Belgium 25+ come in at around 450g, Archetypes at around 465g.
Once again marginal differences but differences all the same.

I'd be interested to know if any other wheelbuilders have weighed these rims themselves and what results they get.

Marginal performance gains, if any, mostly related to weight saving. You might save between 125-150g (if my sums are right) based on a 28/24 Royce Venus/Hed Belgium 25+ build using Sapim CXRays or a similar type spoke.
Many claims are made that Royce hubs are the best constructed in the world and bearing life is amazing but these are claims I can't verify personally.
I agree that a spend of an extra £550 would not be justified for such marginal gains unless you have money to burn. In the end you're buying a luxury item mostly justified only by that criteria: luxury.
If I had money to burn I would snap up a Royce Venus/HED Belgim 25+ build in an instant.
But I don't, so...

Considering recommending a pre-built factory wheelset in a wheelbuilding help thread I would not point towards a R24 here (in a seperate pre-built factory wheelset thread I might). If you want to go budget and build yourself - as regards @Bonj0ur - then I would recommend a Novatec F172/A291 combo with a DT Swiss R460 using Pillar PSRXtra spokes. The satisfaction of having built your own wheelset outweighs the cost benefit of any pre-built one, for me. :-)

I thought your handshake was peculiar.

I'm lolling just imagining the scenario. :-D

Just started reading Vincent Bugliosi's "Helter Skelter," his account of the Manson family murders. He was chief prosecutor in the Manson case. Very exact and painstaking account of the circumstances and evidence in the case so far.

Here is a short video excerpt from an interview with Manson just to remind us of the crazycrazycrazyfuckingcrazy that he is:

https://youtu.be/k9QXY80OxS0

Is this a reasonable stand?

rosebikes.co.uk/article/rose-­centering-set-ii/aid:17131

I have no experience using them but it looks like it would do fine for home wheelbuilding as it seems to be very similar to the Minoura one and that is decent.
Really the main concern with so called "professional" workshop stands as opposed to home mechanic versions is that the workshop grade ones are generally made of more robust materials to handle the sheer volume of wheels trued and built day after day after day after day....

Perhaps most importantly the spoke key that comes with that stand is four-sided which is very important. Helps a lot with not rounding spoke nipples.