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No worries @mig, enjoy the shiny parts
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Ok @crossedthread thanks for the update. Hopefully that means I'm next in line for the groupset and wheels.
Ah I wish I'd paid attention to the Oakley's! I'll get third (?) in line for those as well @ukjoshb
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@coventry_eagle and @rj thanks for the intel. You've helped me advise a mate overseas.
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So so good. I think the early-2000 frame means the DA cranks aren't out of place.
Reasons I love it:
- Nailing the basics, i.e. matching decals/tape/saddle
- Seatpost really works
- Cranks are hyper modern but at a glance look like vintage polished alu
- Gumwalls!
Things I'd change:
- Shiny RD to match cranks
- Flatter top cap (cut the forks?)
- Slimmer stem (I know the options are few)
- Nailing the basics, i.e. matching decals/tape/saddle
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I'd be interested to know the same. I used a Wald 137 basket with the agricultural clamps and wished for something more sleek.
I think it'd be ok for really light stuff, but I would want to test it with a 6-pack of beers. Unless that crown strut was rock solid, assembly would lack stiffness to resist the side-to-side forces while riding. Could get real floppy.
I can still see it working if the distance from crown to basket is small, and the strut itself is stiff. You'll gain stiffness points if the fork has a flat face around the brake bolt hole, as the strut will then be well supported against sideways wiggle.
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@seven and @nick_h.
I just want you to know that I have read your stories, that I feel empathy for you both, and that I am intrigued and impressed with how you have been using cycling as therapy.
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Assuming it doesn't have flats, if you have mole grips or a pipe wrench you might want to try:
- tape a single layer of inner tube around the exposed, round pedal spindle. Tightly!
- position crank at 4 o clock
- Allen key in slot, handle pointing backwards
- mole/pipe grips on spindle, handle pointing backwards also
- grip both tools (awkward reach-around) push down with all your weight
Careful you don't push towards any chainring teeth. Chain on big ring as a safety measure.
- tape a single layer of inner tube around the exposed, round pedal spindle. Tightly!
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That is a cracking looking bike! It is going to fly I'm sure.
BB length should apparently be 111mm for Centaur double.
https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/campagnolo-centuar-bottom-bracketNote also that Campagnolo/Tifosi BBs are ISO taper. Shimano and basically all others are JIS. They are not interchangeable. So a 111 mm JIS (Shimano) BB will put those cranks in a different position when compared to a 111 mm ISO (Campagnolo) BB.
Also just double checking - are you using carbon-specific brake pads? If you need to buy some I can recommend Swisstop yellow pads.
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Hoooo boy, so nice and shiny!