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Thank you, much appreciated! I cycled round a few LBS's yesterday for just this thing (no luck) so good to know they have it, cheers.

Good point, need to check this too...

Yes, sorry, forks not frame there, I'll change it now.

The forks are original on a steel Raleigh Stowaway. The drilling probably isn't wide enough, I'll try and check today. Wondering really if it's a non-starter from a safety perspective...

Is this do-able and safe (assuming the narrower section of the nut can enter the fork from the rear)?

The fork wants a nutted caliper I don't have. The caliper's bolt will get threaded by 15mm of nut so more than it would have had with a nylock nut on the outside, and the 2 washers fit snuggish and are decent i.e. they shouldn't get pulled through.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

For a quill stem. Ideally not the Slimfit version.

Thanks.

Does anyone have a spare bracket / adapter for a Thule Yepp Mini they'd like to sell on? Not the slimfit model preferably, just the regular version for a quill stem. Thanks.

Another well priced Thorn - a badly listed XTC in Redditch on Gumtree. £400 for superb, fillet brazed 26" tourer. Just one photo at a distance but looks tidy.

Free from E9, pm for address. There's about 70 cable ties left and all 50 of the male/female spade connector pairs should be there as only opened the packet to realise they were completely the wrong size for a repair job.

Now sorted

Also interested in the long reach calipers - are they the nutted ones?

Something like this, ideally rated for 25kg:

Sorted now.

Something in 32, don't need to be exact match.

One of the 25s is in good condition, the other excellent, near new.

E9 in case that helps, thanks.

About 66cm of 8mm threaded bar (enough for 2 headset presses like the one shown) and plenty of pipe to seat your crown race. Might also have some extra ply discs I cut out but will need to look. Pick up from E9, thanks.

Yep, second what others have said - this is a really neat job, inspiring, cheers!

Great, thanks @psb and @Brommers - just to check, if the rear derailleur cable is unsealed then pegging the dynamo cable to it whether via zip-tying/heatshrinking is ok, the movement doesn't bother it over time? Suppose best to make sure slack either end?

Not sure I can run inside the mudguard as the folded edges are sealed at the ends + the guard starts well below the BB and ends well after the light fitting on the rack so would be a lot of doubling back/saggy loops unless I drilled early entrance/exit holes. But I could ziptie/heatshrink piggyback along the RD cable along the driveside chainstay then possibly up the rack leg (once I've thought about whether drilling a hole would be ok. It'd have to be 3mm diameter, not insignificant...)

And thanks @Sergeant_Pluck - those links are very helpful and I didn't know about coloured zip ties which would be good. Cheers too for the micro tube, not sure at the moment - where did you use yours?

Edit, just read a discussion on the CTC forum about drilling into a Tubus rack (albeit a Ti one). Consensus is bad idea. Also hadn't thought about rubber grommets to stop the rubbing so a 3mm hole becomes at least 4mm for the grommets+cable and that seems way too much for a fairly minimal rack.

Any advice re cable routing would be very helpful, thanks.

First dynamo set up, for girlfriend's bike that gets parked in public quite a bit so needs to be fairly robust. No obvious options for running things internally (except rack, see q below). She locks up via seat or top tube so have opted for a path via downtube.

Start: BM Cyo N Plus (standard bracket), finish: rack-mounted BM Toplight. I've added (too) small numbers where I've got particular questions

1, 2 & 3- is running it through the spare downtube cable adjuster braze-on (1) around the bottle lugs (2) or bottom bracket guides (3) useful or will that just fret the cable in time?
4 - the Tubus rack leg is open at the bottom so drilling a hole at the top would let me run it through and get it out of the way of bags - is this ok to do?

Also, I have no real clue as to how many loops round the downtube I should do and if anyone can point to a comprehensive idiot's guide to cable routing, I'd love to see. Easy to overthink this and perhaps I am but have spent a bit of time here and elsewhere but haven't seen anything Sheldon-like in basics + detail.

Thanks all.

Nice one, thank you - think someone's coming tomorrow to take it.

Still available, someone please take it! Great for moving stuff and... movable plants, movable bike stands maybe?

The castor wheels are great, even have bearings and soft (but still strong) rubber tyres, gentle to your floor. Please take it.

Lovely, thank you!

Building my first dynamo-hubbed 700c wheel, likely a 32 hole SP PV-8 to a Kinlin XM-250 (both from Spa, £73 + £30), 3-cross with Cyclebasket's ACI or whichever db spokes.

To check.... are there any special building considerations because it's a dynamo hub?

If anyone knows of low priced improvements on the above choices, I'd be grateful to hear.

Thanks!

Thanks, have sent you a pm

Hi, interested in the Roberts - could you tell me the headtube length please?

Edit, sorry and the top tube, and is it 55 CTC, 56 CTT for the seattube?

I'm putting a fork with an uncut carbon steerer on a bike for the first time and want to play around with the stem height. It's got a bung now (50mm approx) but 90mm or so would be good, i think - something like this:

Anyone have one cheapish? Could also swap for the one I've got in there though not sure how this would benefit you though I have a ton of degreaser and random parts I'd be happy to exchange too.

Thanks.

Yes please, will pm now

Looks like a great touring wheel. Unfortunately I'd be harvesting it for the hub only as partner's bike def 700c which is a shame so best say no, cheers!