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Pretty similar...
I need to cut a little piece to fill the end slots though.

I think I just went for 4mm which seems to work pretty well. There are a couple of tighter slots as the cheap crafting balsa ply isn’t that flat out of the packet so I don’t think fractions of a mm on the slat spacing will make a difference to the functionality.

Even wrapping masking tape around should give you quite a good guide to follow by eye.

To go with the nipple driver I made last week, I knocked up a quick shuffle box on the laser cutter from 4mm ply. Happy to share the file with anyone who wants to cut their own.

Have you got a tube clamp or maybe a fork steerer cutting guide you can use as a file guide?

What for? 3 bolt direct to the fork?

You need to check the length and thread pitch. If it's long enough to poke 10mm or so of threads through the other side of your fork and your nut is M9x1.25 like that axle, then it will work.

What setting do you have the multimeter on?

It's never happened to me. The little plastic tolls they give you to set up the derailleurs work very well, and as long as you install the right wedge behind the derailleur it shoud be a non-issue.

It's pretty difficult to say. The important figure with an SDS is the impact energy, not necessarily the power. Concrete also gets harder with time so an old slab will take much longer to get through. I would expect with the right setup not more than a few minutes. I would drill full depth with the pilot if you only have a 2-3J impact energy.

Sounds like the drill bit is fucked. Does the head look OK? Sometimes the little brazed in bits can get damaged.
As Joeboat says, I would start with an 8mm so the big drill has a bit of an easier time.

You could also try a compression ring with a lower stack like this:

I would do, but I only installed it a few months ago!

Interesting, I have one waste pipe in the wall, where would you suggest putting the Y? I already found it hard to find the correct adapter to go from my 56mm waste to the 40mm standard siphon connection and space is very limited behind the undersink drawer.

On a similar topic, we have started to get smells coming from the sink when the dishwasher is draining since installing a new kitchen. The dishwasher wasn't replaced, doesn't smell inside, and it didn't smell when draining before, so I can only suspect it is down to how the IKEA lillviken siphon works. My suspicion is that the pump on the dishwasher is so strong that it blasts everything through the U, as the IKEA setup is that the dishwasher line has a straight entry into it rather than being at 90 deg. Anyone have any bright ideas or experienced similar?

On an Edelux it looks like the cable and board are potted for waterproof-ness. I would ask SON what they will replace. If they replace the cable as part of the repairs, then cut the cable right at the light. If they won't, cut it at the place most convenient for you to be able to re-attach when they return it.

What's the light? Sometimes they have little Molex connectors inside so you can just unplug it.

Portes du Soleil is the easiest and closest to Geneva. Avoriaz is the biggest resort with plenty of self catering accomodation and is pedestrianised, so basically everywhere is ski in/ski out.

A new Thru-axle will be fine. Check here in case it helps you get the measurements you need to buy a new one. It doesn't have to be a Novatec one to work. In fact it seems prefereable to not get the same seeing as it has already failed once...

Fox 34 SC is a very good fork.
Also make sure you check the steerer length if you go second hand!

Had they opened the new tunnel in Glacier 3000? Interested to see what that does for them. It give direct access to some really good off piste which used to require a quite sketchy traverse.

The brass cap is just to cover the bearing. Not sure if a bearing is really necessary, the EVT one seems popular emough and doesn’t have a bearing. I just fancied seeing what kind of tolerances I could get on the fit.
The main body is just one piece of stainless, the tip isn’t separate. I copied the 2 degree taper from EVT.
I’m just using a lathe at work during lunch, so I don’t really have the resources to make more, and if I did, they’d probably be more expensive than the EVT one!

Just made myself a fancy nipple loader. I was a little bit limited by the length of stock that I had so it might be a bit short for deep rims, but I mainly did it as an excuse to practice on the lathe. Very fun little project!

What crank? Modern cranks (Hollowtech ii etc.) won't tighten properly if you put in more spacers than they were designed for.
Did you measure the BB width? Can you find where the rubbing is coming from?

Also, internal rear brake routing is on the wishlist but may or may not be practicable.

How would you go around the BB? Even with a T47 BB I found you need quite accurately drilled breather holes to have enough space for the hose to make the bend around the BB.