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Are the spacers on the trainer correct? Sounds like you need a bigger spacer on the drive side to move the derailleur away from the cassette.

Maybe not extra weight, but certainly mass attached to the fork legs. Any fork designed with having a rack or cages attached will (or should according to ISO) be tested with different load cases than a normal fork.

Any strap-on system won't cause too high crushing forces on carbon. P-clips or hose clamp type things may.

British brand Mudhugger

It may not need saying, but be careful that you don't overload any fork legs not designed for the extra weight.

Have a scan through here: https://bikepacking.com/index/cargo-cages-anything-bags/

It's looking great so far. It might be a 'stupid' design if you wanted to sell them and make money, but as it's a hobby and just for you then why not take the time! I often have to remind myself with DIY projects that I am doing it for fun and therefore I should just slow down and enjoy the process and challenge rather than trying to get it done quickly.

ours are just a little bit bigger and considerably more expensive.

My trip above could easily be shortened to 6 days if you were riding 100km a day.
Connemara and Kerry were the most enjoyable which is nice as they bookend the route.

The Scale is a great bike. As the new one has just been released (a few weeks ago) you can probably pick up a decent decent deal on the 'old' model in a physical store.

Even that WTB Venture it doesn’t look like the tread is really any wider than the casing.

It is on mine.

I could see it working for a skinny tyre if the tread is narrower than the sidewall section width. But in any case, it's a confusing way to designate a tyre size.

For the ETRTO designation, the stated width should the 'nominal section width' i.e.'the section width from sidewall to sidewall of an inflated tyre on its theoretical rim'. It may be that the other size being stated is the 'overall width' which is basically the tread width.
In ETRTO, they only describe this for tyres where the tread is wider than the sidewall. This is what I have found WTB do for example with the Venture tyre. The ETRTO measurement is 37-622 for the casing, but the tread is 700x40.

This bike is almost finished! I've mislaid the front axle, and I've stuck some Teravails on there for now as the Challenge tyres lived up their name...

I will probably drop the bars once I've ridden it a bit, was too nervous to do the chop in one go. I will also swap the groupset for 2x in the summer.

Super happy with how it's looking, let's hope it rides nice too. I know the spacers / stem looks very chunky as it is now, unfortunately with this system I'm a bit limited, but over time I'm hoping to 3D print some spacers which will allow me to run different combos.

It's a shame to hear that TBA has closed their doors now, they were a great team.

I had this on a DT R460 or R470 sleeve jointed rim. It's pretty normal for a non-welded rim to open slightly once built and pressurised. I solved it with a dab of CA glue I think. Been riding that rim for 7 years and the problem has not come back.

Or stick an o-ring groove in the print?

Loobtoob

Considering the weight distribution on the bike, I don't think 30mm is a fair bit more than the front will flex but as you said, your opinion, my opinion blah blah. Best way to find if it suits you is to ride it.

It is not suspension. It is a way to allow the rear end of the bike to flex a bit more than usual without putting huge stresses on a carbon T-joint. This might be useful if you have a really rigid seatpost (i.e. dropper) or are underbiking. Bear in mind that the front of the bike already flexes very differently to the rear. A straight fork with a stem and handlebar =/= a closed triangle with a seatpost on top.

Do you have a chance to ride the bike before you buy it? That'll give you the best impression on whether you think it is the right thing for you. The system 'works', but whether that feels good for you is a different matter.

You want one of these or similar: http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/mountain/products/direct-mount-chainrings-for-sram-cranks

Personally, I use a pick or knife to take out the seal, if you're careful and do it just before installing the lever, then you won't lose any fluid.

In the OEM factories they don't break the seal before installing the lever, that's why on your first brake bleed you'll often see little white bits floating in the fluid.

To carry on the theme, I saw this reflective sign Abus make to go on the back of bike trailers:

The French speaking Swiss still call it foehn as far as I know. So many places in Switzerland are getting the rental bikes back out of storage. It must have been a massive hit to a lot of places having no snow for Christmas week.

I think you missed the pun...

Have you checked your Garmin Connect settings?