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Someone has already released the 'stoke' video on YT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phJEyFzWhrI&ab_channel=Stage21Bikes
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I have the Fenix 7s solar, my first watch so I can't compare to other brands. It does HRV very well, and has a huge range of activity types so can cover pretty much everything you might want to do. I got the 's' as I have quite small wrists, and I didn't need the extra days battery life from the standard size, especially as it has solar. It's certainly light and small enough not to be annoying.
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I like the Wheels Manufacturing kit I have for BBs. bearingprotools.com are good for smaller bearings and UK based.
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I'm a materials engineer and have some involvement with 3D printing for work. I think there are a few people on here who might be able to help with printing things locally for you, I live in Switzerland...
But let us know what you're project / problem is and someone will be sure to give some helpful pointers. The tricky part might be the 3D modelling of the part if you don't have any experience doing that. -
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It's nice to be able to fit 2 bottles or maybe a full frame bag and not worry about hitting the shock. There are also the 'ST' versions with a longer fork (no lockout) if you want something that descends even better. And yep, Gemperle was riding a Spark Team Issue with some Maxxis Aspen prototypes that he must have scrounged from the Scott-Sram service course.
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There are so many factors, it is impossible to say. With home 3D printing (Fused Deposition Modelling, FDM) the strength is higher in the plane of the layers, but lower between the layers. This is a bit like in wood where the strength along the grain is higher than across it. Strength can also vary depending on how you design your model. Many larger 3D prints are not completely solid but have some kind of mesh on the inside to save weight and time.
However printing methods like MJF or SLS have very different properties and available materials. The possibilities are huge (and not fully explored yet).
Do you have a particular project or problem in mind? -
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We have an Epilog Zing at work which I've used a bit. The software is easy enough and it handles 4mm ply in a single pass. I've found the zero positioning a bit fiddly, and there don't seem to be any limit switches to stop the motors running the gantry into the end of the rails. They have updated all their systems now though, so maybe they fixed a few of the niggles. I expect it is quite an expensive system though.