Search results for:

We have an Epilog Zing at work which I've used a bit. The software is easy enough and it handles 4mm ply in a single pass. I've found the zero positioning a bit fiddly, and there don't seem to be any limit switches to stop the motors running the gantry into the end of the rails. They have updated all their systems now though, so maybe they fixed a few of the niggles. I expect it is quite an expensive system though.

I have one of these which I find keeps blades safe and minimising contact with the wood so they stay sharp.

Seems like a complete waste of money to me. You will just drop sweat onto your phone screen and I think there are more fun things you can do other that moving your avatar left and right a bit.

I'm not surprised your wrists are battered with 120psi in your fork!

I was really surprised at how nice a finish a wire brush leaves. I got a few small ones for the dremel and that’s all I ended up doing to my fillets.

Just paint masking, same as around the cable routing holes.

But what is MOG? Take your pick:

Someone has already released the 'stoke' video on YT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phJEyFzWhrI&ab_channel=Stage21Bikes

Ooooh, are you leaking sensitive information? Is this the MOG we've all been waiting for?

No one buys it, Shimano just push it on brands to spec OEM so that it makes DA seem better value.

Just putting a bit more grease in your DT hub will quieten it down quite a bit.

They increased the points of engagement so it'll be higher frequency but probably not louder.

Fair enough. I've not felt hindered by the size, so if you're not after mapping I wouldn't hesitate at all with a 41-42mm case.

I have the Fenix 7s solar, my first watch so I can't compare to other brands. It does HRV very well, and has a huge range of activity types so can cover pretty much everything you might want to do. I got the 's' as I have quite small wrists, and I didn't need the extra days battery life from the standard size, especially as it has solar. It's certainly light and small enough not to be annoying.

Not unless you want to get REALLY close and the derailleur hits the next fork. Sometimes bars can get hooked on the next saddle which I find is the limiting factor in top'n'tail setups.

There's also hybrid ones that have a carbon front triangle and alloy rear for somewhere in the middle.

I like the Wheels Manufacturing kit I have for BBs. bearingprotools.com are good for smaller bearings and UK based.

In my opinion, the benefit of having cables out of the way of bar bags and a remote lockable shock hidden from dirt far outweigh any inconvenience of taking an extra 10 mins on an annual service.

I'm a materials engineer and have some involvement with 3D printing for work. I think there are a few people on here who might be able to help with printing things locally for you, I live in Switzerland...
But let us know what you're project / problem is and someone will be sure to give some helpful pointers. The tricky part might be the 3D modelling of the part if you don't have any experience doing that.

They are normally with fork because they have the special Twinlock 3-position lockout. The ST frameset with fork you could definitely sell the fork on for decent money if you wanted something else.

It's nice to be able to fit 2 bottles or maybe a full frame bag and not worry about hitting the shock. There are also the 'ST' versions with a longer fork (no lockout) if you want something that descends even better. And yep, Gemperle was riding a Spark Team Issue with some Maxxis Aspen prototypes that he must have scrounged from the Scott-Sram service course.

There are so many factors, it is impossible to say. With home 3D printing (Fused Deposition Modelling, FDM) the strength is higher in the plane of the layers, but lower between the layers. This is a bit like in wood where the strength along the grain is higher than across it. Strength can also vary depending on how you design your model. Many larger 3D prints are not completely solid but have some kind of mesh on the inside to save weight and time.
However printing methods like MJF or SLS have very different properties and available materials. The possibilities are huge (and not fully explored yet).
Do you have a particular project or problem in mind?

Definitely cordless, most of them do use system batteries. There isn't much to determine between them from a DIY point of view.

No surprise then that it's very close to a Gambler but just a cm or so longer (comparing Yalla M and Gambler L).

Please don't.