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Yeah, that's what I found too. Not necessarily a problem but negates the benefit of ai dishing. Someone seemed to think you could build it with the rim the 'wrong' way so you could minimise the effect of the asymmetry or something?
Ai works well on the symmetrical rim I'm using at the moment - spoke tensions are almost even on both sides. If an asymmetrical rim is used then would you end up with looser spokes on one side than you would with a symmetrical, but regular dished wheel (i.e. not that huge an issue?).Trying to find a light, symmetrical rim would be the ideal but I'm not sure where to start. Most modern stuff seems to be asymmetrical.
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What's the go-to 650b rim for gravel/all road (47c ish)? Needs to not be asymmetric ideally as it will have to be built ai dished at the rear. Ideally as light as possible but not something that's going to be destroyed by a rock.
Also, if anyone does have a set of light 27.5/650b wheels for sale, I'm interested. -
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Google is not providing me with the answer to this: I have a stages gen 1 gxp crank arm. I'd like to use it on a hardtail MTB (rock lobster, threaded BB, currently running xt). If I buy a pair of gxp MTB cranks, will it work with them? I cannot think why it wouldn't, but stages do now do a 'road' and 'mtb' version of their gxp PM so perhaps I'm missing something.
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Gotta say, topstone is top. Not sure about the flared bars but wideness does feel good on rocky descents. It's a bit weird trying to get it to feel good at the front because I'm used to long reach and 38 bars. Doesn't feel low enough on the hoods and too wide on the drops, but that's perhaps because on the road it feels like a (quick) road bike.
One thing though, clearance isn't great. It's accumulating leaves and mud at the back even with 37c, but that may be partly due to the mudguard bolt there. More at the front so might stick a 45c in. -
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Thanks, I'll try and work out which front I need as there seem to be a few options. The hubs came from AliExpress years ago, I do just wonder whether it's worth paying £60 for some new 791 hubs and relacing the wheels. Do they have the same dimensions as the 771/772?
Edit: thanks, sorted, found a UK seller on eBay after multiple attempts using different keywords.
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To add to this, what's the build to get a solid and cheap but light set of 650b wheels? Are d791 sealed and reliable? And what are the 'go-to' 650b or 700c alu rim for light gravel/off road? The wheels on my new bike are 2kg which seems absurdly heavy to me. That's formula hubs and wtb i23 light rims.
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I have a set of wheels built with d771/772sb hubs. I'd like to keep them to use on a new frameset which is 12mm thru front and rear. They're currently running qr. Is there a kit which will convert them, or is it not worth the faff over replacing the hubs/wheels.
They're not particularly special wheels, I'd just like a second pair for the new bike and would rather not buy a whole wheelset. -
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1x on current cross bike and MTB, new 'gravel' bike has 36/40. It'll make sense I reckon as I find the gaps between gears on 11-42 annoying on the road, and it quickly goes from 'bit too hard for sharp technical climb' to 'bailout, not moving at all' gear off road. Easier to clean and ride when very muddy though, admittedly.
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4 degrees and very, very foggy today and insulate brevet gilet over a jersey and a merino base layer was spot on. It feels very weird to go out without a jacket and just warmers and a gilet but bar one long descent, it was perfect.
That being said, I reckon I could size down in the gilet or get a PT one - anyone have one to sell/swap? I've got a medium and am between a small and medium. -
Thanks. There's some d791 on eBay in Ireland for around £80, which seems fair. Is there a better choice than those? I've had d771 on a bike for years in all sorts of horrible conditions and they've been fine.