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Not terrible tbh, but when I tried to drill it before for an anchor it became apparent it was pretty thin. I think there's some big cracks across the floor, but it seems stable. I would be a little scared that breaking it up would destabilise the remaining walls.

Do you mean wooden bearers?

Anyone care to advise on my shed situation? Basically need to know if I need to build a foundation wall, or can re-pour the slab and fix straight on to that (wooden structure)

Also, fake grass, what's needed in terms of layers below when laying on top of a concrete slab?

Cheers, it does seems that there should have been a sign there according to DfT guidlines which might have helped me avoid it:

"D3.18.4 The “RAMP AHEAD” sign variant to diagram 7010.1 warns of a sudden change of road level which
the driver is approaching, and should be sited not less than 30 m before the ramp. It must always be used in
conjunction with the “RAMP” sign to diagram 7013. These signs should also be specified when cable crossing
41

DESIGN CRITERIA
protectors are in use at traffic signal sites (see paragraph D5.10.9) and when locally fabricated or prefabricated
“humps” are used to protect pipes, cables etc. that are run across the road. Such “humps” should not be of
such a design that they are a hazard to road users, in particular cyclists and motorcyclists."

It said Kier on the barriers, not sure what that tells me, I'll try and sus out what the works are tomorrow. If there's no compensation it's not a massive biggie, I'm basically ok luckily, just a little sore, paying for the wheel to get sorted will smart.

Anyone know a good sure for gravel rash? This patch on my back is weeping like an Essex housewife at Lady Di's funeral.

Anyone know of a good open source for shed designs. I need a starting point.

Was originally just going to whack a new roof, window and door on this, but the brickwork is fucked, to the point where I think it might be dangerous. Rough plan is to knock down the front and side walls, possibly remove the slab and re-pour (incorporating ground anchors) , and build a wooden structure up from there.

Is standard design to build sleeper walls like this and build up from there, or would I be ok building directly on to the concrete base, fixing uprights in place with something like these?

I'd ideally like to incorperate some kind of drainage into the slab, to that wet bikes don't create a wet room effect inside and rot the wood over time.

Got taken out by this speed bump last night, can't really remember if I noticed it or not approaching, but first thing I know about not tackling right is that the handlebars have been knocked out of my hand and I'm flying towards the ground.

Have some gravel rash on lower back, a graze on each hand, and cuts and bruises to legs from the bike. Front wheel is pringled, should be possible to straighten out. Looking back at the photos, it seems likely my wheel went down the gap in between the sections of the ramp, I don't feel like just the incline of the ramp alone would have been enough to break my grip. The bent wheel would back this theory up.

Will be contacting British Cycling on Monday and seeing whether I'm covered for a claim against the council, or if this is even a possibility, just for the cost of straightening the wheel out. Anyone had experience of this kind of thing, where there's no present 3rd party, but perhaps an element of negligence?

Will be taking my camera back tomorrow morning with a tape measure to measure those gaps.
There was no ramp sign either. Apparently there's CCTV footage of my off.

Ah, thanks, but I'm not. Going to hold it up to my mrs' front wheel and see what it looks like. She has 40c I think, might even be able to ride it a little if the gears decide to play.

Speaking of clearances, thinking of doing a conversion on my Soma ES. Just bought a thorn fork and clearance at 320mm from the axle is about 45mm. I guess hoping to fit a 42mm tyre in there is going to be wishful? Would probably still do it for the 38mm anyway.

Is this yours? Care to share brake / rim / tyre deets?

edit: no worries, I found it.

Drawing up plans for a new roof for my shed as stage 1 of sorting out my garden. Plan was to gut it back to the brick shell and build off that with new green roof, door and polycarbonate window to allow light in to a small workbench.

Brickwork is looking ok in places, but equally pretty shabby in others. Would it be enough to jet wash out all the loose mortar and re-point where it's gone shitty? What kind of mortar should I be using for this? Garden walls are in a similar state, so I'll probably try and do those at the same time also.

Still a medium of the one with the chromed dropouts.

More to the point - are you?

Singular Osprey frame/ forks sell off:

http://shop.singularcycles.com

Eggshell I think.

induction hob with a small gas wok burner on the side.>

This would be ideal, works out quite pricey though, not sure it's really worth it considering how long I'll be here.

It's just annoying as I like to cook Chinese food. When I was renting it'd be a consideration, but by no means a deal breaker. May still go with gas after all that though, the efficiency will be of no consideration after a couple of years.

On the subject of Gas vs. Induction, I'm probably going to let my place after a couple of years living here. Is there a strong argument to be made against gas in that scenario?

edit: hob needs replacing and is electric at the moment, but I'm pretty sure there is a gas supply available as it's been gas before.

32c max ain't they?

The Shiroko are the hardier, armouned touring version, still pretty light though. Probably going to use them on my Vagabond build.

Yep, which would be a shame as anecdotally the Spyre seems a little more temperamental in terms of maintenance and set-up. I guess using a travel-agent would be a step backwards too.

S500 yes? I was thinking of trying some on the SS so may well have to do that and see how I get on with them.

Those are the 520s, linear pull ones, you had those?. I have some of the cane creek ones (that are the same as the 340s I think) which I'm not keen on. The ones above seem a lot chunkier and like they would be more comfortable, but it's a good point, I should probably work out a way to test them properly before committing to the Spykes as I don't think there's a lot of other options.

Was just about to suggest an Aldi special. Mine does well enough for me if you double check the angles.

Oh yeah, might want to stop sometimes, so I have these:

and will be getting TRP spykes. Sounds like they might be a bit more hard-wearing than the sypres, hooked up with jagwire compression-less full cable runs.

A little way off starting this one, as I need to rebuild my shed to keep it in, but I have the frame on order and some of the parts. Had a ride on a large complete a few weeks ago and really liked it, and although the complete looks like good value I have a lot of the parts to do a more 'all-road' orientated build, which will probably be more useful for the short term, with the option to stick some knoblies on and go off-road touring in the future. Also because purple.

Here's what I have so far:

RD - bashed up old LX thing, may get something nicer
FD - standard XT one

Wheelset will probably be these but with silver rims and SP hub. Tempted to polish up the rear hub, there's a bloke nearby who'll do it for around £35, I think it may bug me if I don't. The frame has 73mm BB drop, same as the CDf, so 650b could be an option. Not sure if this'll have any advantages beyond hipster points though.

Tyres - may try and get some of those Soma Shiroko 42mm, although this could be challenging.
Saddle - probably a Regal as I'm liking the one on my SS at the moment, or a charge Pan or Brooks B17 special
Bars - would like something quite wide and flared, not full of dirt-drop, but maybe the Salsa cowchipper, spendy though. Any alternatives appreciated.

Think that's it. As I say, slow build.

Genesis Vagabond, if you really want 'go anywhere', and if you can find one.