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The Bahco carbide scrapers are great.

Whoops.

Yeah, I have a lot of Makita tools.
And no complaints.
I think the longevity/robustness is not what it was (my 15 yo SDS got retired to mixing plaster years ago and it’s still going)

The Metabo is at a similar price point + £20 - I’ll need to research some more.

Oh crap. Sounds like it’ll all need to come off.

Careful of the heat gun and the glass (bitter experience)
Those carbide scrapers are great - the Bahco one I have is a favourite tool. BUT they’re brilliant at smashing glass - I managed to shatter a toughened glass double glazed unit I’d just fitted a while ago by just tapping it wrong.

Also has the advantage of other people having already modelled a lot of stuff already

Most IKEA crap is available in a library.

I know someone who does really advanced stuff in Sketchup - animated walkthroughs of interlocking vaulted ceiling spaces with differing floor heights etc.

It’s great for simple stuff though, when I still bothered with Autocad I found I used Sketchup instead for drawing cabinets etc - especially to show to clients.

What prep did people do?

Is the paint peeling or bubbling?
If not, I would just rub it down with 120 and undercoat.
Especially if it’s an old door that’s never been stripped, those old paints stick like shit, and form a great base layer and are full of yukky stuff that’s best not disturbed.
I still use oil based undercoat mostly - unless it’s a system microporous paint, but then you’ll need to strip down to bare wood.
😖

If the paint is lifting give it a good scrape and get off anything loose.
If it’s particularly bad you’ll have to make an executive decision as to whether it all needs to come off.

Sketchup?

with deadman supports

I think it’s a two-person job on a platform.

The beams are likely not parallel so if you want a smart clean finish (tight fit or consistent shadow gaps) templating would be the way I’d go.

You can use diluted paste to seal the wall.
Trad was to use Size which used to be animal skin glue - and has a distinct smell
😋
The diluted paste would still be water soluble though I guess, size would need heat to dilute
Alternatives are PVA or SBR.

Caveat;
I haven’t done any papering for years (thank god).

Edit; sealing the wall correctly is important, you want to be able to move the paper - so you do t want too much suction but you don’t want it totally sealed or the paste dries like a skin and will peel off.
I’d recommend Size.

veneer backed insulation panels

Could glue 4mm birch ply onto 50mm Kingspan and fix that up

What’s the other side of the OSB @Sam_w ? Is it just the roof membrane?

Edit; I see you had a similar idea.

That looks a well storied bike.

I love the economy of design of the front rack.

True.

Ha, didn't realise someone had just asked the same question.

Me neither.

Need to investigate the valves a bit more as one of them does adjust
the water flow but the other appears to be fake and just spins freely.

Lock shields (the one that doesn’t control the flow) often have a dummy head or a cover on them that needs to be removed to close the valve, there will be flats on the spindle, an adj spanner will do the job.

If not you’ll need to drain down the whole system 😭😖

My ancient Metabo RO sander is dying.
I can’t afford a Festool, what’s the best bang for the bucks sander out there?

I was once trying to flush out pipe work to a heat exchanger that was totally blocked with black sludge by connecting it to the mains with a hose.
What could go wrong?

The owners were sat chatting with me in their kitchen when one connection on the hose failed.
The back pressured black sludge and water sprayed out all over me and the kitchen, leaving my negative shadow on the wall.
They stared in stunned disbelief.

Fortunately they were mates and I was sort of doing them a favour.
I think they forgave me.

It’s so much worse when you’re working in someone else’s house.

STRESS.

Its a lovely plant, I kept it in a tug of love break up.
It’s no longer in the window (it was taking over) it’s not as happy in the alcove where the tv was - I think it might be getting too cold in the winter too, I moved the radiator.

This one is in the same room and is loving life atm.

I would also recommend using a wet vac

Running in a blind panic to get all the towels is also an option.

Even though the bit will be cutting both sides of the chase at once the tool will still behave much better cutting left to right with good even pressure into the guide. Depends how neat you need the chase to be.
👍

You can do this with rads, but this one has the tails coming out of the walls, not up from the floor so if it has brackets it needs to be lifted up and off (I can’t see from pic) - it ain’t going to work.
Probably @aggi will have to isolate at the control valve and the lock shield (looks like it’s the same valve either side) and drain the rad (opening the air valve all the way and only taking off one valve helps keep things under control).
I would definitely try using a mini roller to paint behind it first, are you using a very different colour?

Yeah. It should cope with that fine.
I’d do it in two passes probably, get a feel for how it’s cutting.
With you use a guide/straight edge?

I would say it depends on the amount of material you’re trying to remove in one pass, how big a chase are you cutting?
OSB has a lot of glue and some of the wood in it can be v resinous and hard.
Top tip; use a v sharp TCT bit and listen to the motor to see if it’s bogging down.

When I was at art school the head technician in the workshops was famous for asking ‘what’s the application’ whenever you asked to borrow a tool, but I get where he was coming from -grumpy old bastard.

Ficus Elastica.

🙂

Your ceiling seems like a different case.

Yes it is. I brought it up because a conventional approach would be that it ‘all has to come down’.
But that approach isn’t always best ...

There is actually an old school fix for a blown plaster and lath ceiling which is to support it from below, raise the floor boards above, remove the plaster base coat that has squeezed through the lath where the bond to the ceiling is broken and repair those areas with poured over plaster.
I’ve never tried this but I would have if the boards above didn’t go under a huge piece of fitted furniture I built to divide the master bedroom in to 2 separate rooms for the little masters.

In the states (NYC) I came across a renovation scrim that’s basically a metre wide (yard) roll of glass scrim tape, it gets stuck over problem walls and ceilings then skimmed over. I couldn’t find any here, hence my invention.

Seems like you’ve got rubbed up the wrong way.
You don’t need to rephrase anything to suit me - it’s ok to differ.

I’m not preaching to anyone, or proselytising
The repair I did on my ceiling saved a ton of time and money in materials- and gave a much better cosmetic result than over-boarding or removal of the plaster & lath and PBing would have.
And it only took a (long) day.

There are times when tearing everything out is expedient, usually when no one is living there, there’s a team of labourers, and a skip out front.
In my case we were all at home and my daughter was about a week off being born.
🙂

I managed to ‘save’ this lime plaster ceiling in my house, which I had stripped the paper off in a fit of exuberance, only to discover cracks surrounding large areas, it was the cornice I wanted to keep really but a dead flat plasterboard ceiling would look all wrong.
I primed it heavily with SBR then stapled up glass fibre rendering scrim and skimmed over it.
It was an experiment but it’s been up 2 years and all seems solid.