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^ yes

I used to use those Riv Rolly Pollys when I lived in CA- they're great. Quite like the Pasellas.

Plastering is one of the dark arts.
It eluded me for years.
As a sculptor,carpenter, cabinetmaker, joiner, plumber, tiler, welder etc. for too long I used to get so wound up because my plastering was shit.
I finally cracked it a couple of years ago and realized Its all about the Zen.

Sometimes a wall or ceiling is just a bitch though and needs to get skimmed twice.

If the flat was built in the 90's disregard all of what I said about different plaster types.

I've never used a one coat plaster so I can't comment, I've heard that even though it's really a DIY product, counter intuitively it's harder to use.
Thistle anything will be fine as its Gypsum based -so works fine with portland (cement) and other Gypsum stuff.
Its important that the substrate is fully dry before you plaster onto it as the plaster sticks by suction and the damp mortar won't have any. Let it dry fully (I know you didn't and started plastering already) then splash it with a bit of water (I know it sounds nuts but its to do with controlling the suction) then plaster on top. Some people PVA the mortar/render first to get even predictable suction.
I would also give a very slight fall to the front of the shelf/lower window reveal/thing so water does run off- you could do this with the tile but as you're tanking you might as well have that draining the right way.

Never used the Bal tanking system - it looks to be pretty good value actually, at the risk of sounding like a Mapei salesman their Mapegum is great, very easy to work with + clean up - its a ready mixed grey latex goop. If you go to a proper trade tile place (where are you?) you can buy all the tape, matting , primer and what not individually. Might cost a bit more but do you have Sora on your bike?

Good luck.

And Dammit "Plumbing is pretty easy" How did that iBox work out?

:-)
After 20 odd years doing building work (on and off) I still find plumbing a lesson in humility. I occasionally need my 60 year old Irish plumbing Guru called Seamus, he's only a phone call away.

for me to buy stuff or post interestin stuff , i spent 2 hours reading posts an come to the conclusion that a lot of you do more postin than workin

ftfy

Its pretty straight forward gear. (the Mapei stuff is good)
Mix it up exactly as it says on the bag, you'll need a whisk (plaster mixer in a powerful drill)
pour it out, give it a quick spread around, let it settle and set.

If only.
Those days are gone.

I'm more like the Radio 3 listening scaffolders anyway.

It* is *probably water penetration from the shower spray through the wooden cill. The advice to remove the blown plaster is correct, definitely let everything dry out before making good. Check to make sure there is no water penetration from outside.

Is it a Victorian house, with lime mortared bricks and lime plaster? If so, the original plaster is not really a proper substrate for tile in a shower-especially if the shower is used often.
When I do showers in this situation I strip back all the plaster (to bare brick) and replace it with something impervious, cement render, WBP ply or Wedi board (last two options are great if you don't have good plastering skills or lots of time but cost more and need to be properly joined. They also allow for lime mortared bricks to move a bit which they do- a too strong cement render will fight this characteristic and cause problems.
This is all more expense and takes a lot more effort but provides a sound flat plumb surface for tiling and you know its going to last.
But I get paid to do this.
If the house is later (post 30s) or has been re-plastered and you have Gypsum based plaster then patch it up, don't use bonding though as it is very absorbent and shouldn't be used on exterior walls especially next to windows, or in shower enclosures- use cement render (with a multifinish skim if you want). If the repaired substrate is dry, flat and plumb go ahead and tile on top.

I would get rid or the wooden window board (interior window cill) and replace with tile. Tack up a bit of board/ply/whatever to act as a former/shutter, make it level and the same distance or more from the glazing as the vertical reveals, then back-fill with a sharp sand and cement mix (5:1) or you can just use good tile adhesive (I always use Mapei and not just cause of the cycling connection) The adhesive will be flexible, dry faster/take tiles sooner but costs more.

I do this for a living.
:-)

505 don't shrink - sanforized innit?

Caine; "I used to like hotwheels when I was little"

:)))))

Make your mind up, where were you?

Oh shit, I just saw what you did....

You funny.

The thing about jumping red lights is not that it's dangerous, or illegal particularly, it's just that you're only given the time and space to do so if all other road users abide by the rules.

Everyone else waits on the red light, giving one rule violator time to break it. If we all broke the rules chaos would ensue so red light jumpers exploit the rule-abiding nature of the majority of road users (cars and peds included) so they can break the rules.

It's a kind of arrogance - you're implicitly saying that everyone else needs to obey but you don't have to.

As far as overtaking goes. It's a small inconvenience, but overtaking the same person multiple times gets frustrating.

I could give the Yosarian argument but I know you're (mostly) right.

I guess I've been cycling so long its a habit born in the days when the were very few cyclists on the roads in London and a certain arrogant 'reclaiming of the streets' riding style developed. I actually think mostly its safer to jump the lights, you don't get caught in shenanigans at the off and all the motorists can see you up ahead.
I slow right down going through ped crossings (the only peds I've hit have stepped out on me from behind busses etc) and I'm pretty careful. But also arrogant. Probably.

Take a pad of post-its with you, every time you pass the person, stick another post-it on them/their bike, until they are looking a bit like an upside down yellow pine cone.

excellent imagery.

I know its practically Bordeaux but its still pretty nice as long as you ignore the natives.

The Lacuna
Barbara kingsolver.
Enjoying it a lot so far. It helps that I've traveled in Mexico and visited most of the places mentioned.

Just read Number 9 dream by David Mitchel which is a great piece of writing but ultimately a bit 'so what'? all form and no substance.

Gave up on 1Q84.

I don't get it. Overtaking another cyclist isn't really that annoying/difficult is it?

Also am I suddenly the only person who habitually jumps red lights? Are you all so law abiding?
(Caveat; pretty much only do this when I know the junction well).
I've been cycling in London for over 20 years and have never been knocked off at a junction (is a roundabout a junction)?

Also falling in line behind a bunch of wobbly commuters queuing at the red is not going to happen - I'm that guy you curse at as I overtake the nodder peleton in the middle of the road and zip up the Old Kent R.

In September France is empty though. We were the last tent (apart from some Germans) in a campsite down Cote Sauvage way one year, happened almost overnight.

Nice.

Couple of points, always try shoes on when you've been on your feet a while as they do swell a little so when on a long ride those shoes that fitted in the shop on a cold early morning will be a little bit too snug and there's nothing worse than a bike shoe that's too small!.

Most mtb/spd shoes are fine in the width sizing (I actually bought Lidl shoes as they fitted my wide feet perfectly & they were well made & cheap!)
Road shoes vary quite a bit from manufacturer to manufacturer but I'd say go for one size bigger than your standard shoe size as a starting point.

I don't agree with this last bit, and I hear loads of people saying size up with sidis they run really small etc -cycling shoes are supposed to be tight. I wear a 10 in street shoes ( Crockett and Jones or Converse) I wear a 44.5 in Sidis and these fit like they should, a snug fit with almost no toe room.
Trying shoes on when your feet are swollen from a days walking riding whatever is definitely good advice

stronglight delta

How too short? Are you putting a 1/2" to 15mm compression fitting inside? As long as the 3/4" threads bottom out (into port on iBox) with a nice tight fit (plenty PTFE) then anything else will just tighten into the 1/2" threads. However I would probably just use one of these;
http://www.6thplanet.com/store/product/plubr1bspmto22mm_l.jpg

(3/4" BSP to 15mm compression) Ditch the bushings/reducers and use this straight into the iBox then pipe off that...

Where abouts are you? I might know a good local plumbers' merchants.

(trust me I'm a builder.....)

This^ or Royal Mail International small packets 'Signed for' -it will be slightly cheaper but only have tracking within UK (or maybe not at all I can't remember), don't think airsure is available to Japan. It'll probs cost less than £10.

http://www.royalmail.com/price-finder

I've just had a quick ring round- they are shut, or not answering the phone anyway.

The iBox comes with three reducing boss' and one blanking plug, for (presumably) the most common setup which is one shower outlet.

I need two outlets, so I need to swap the blanking plug for a reducing boss.

Hansgrohe will sell me one direct, for £13, and it'll take a week to get it- I don't mind paying that (although it seems steep) but I'd like to be able to go and get it today.

£13? A bargain!
Hansgrohe take the piss -after you've bought an iBox, valve, and finishing set for >£350...
What you have there is a dead common 3/4" to 1/2" male reducer. Any plumbers merchant will have them - If I'd seen this earlier you could have had one of probably 1/2 a dozen I've got in my plumbing box, pick up from my arch in Bermondsey.
If all your pipe work is 15mm you could just use a 3/4" (male) to 15mm compression or solder fitting and do away with the reducer bushing.

Have fun!

Being picky, I mean.

If we are being picky, the cranks arent inch pitch or skip tooth...

You started it!

Might be wrong on 'H' section bit -possibly only single fluted.