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I’m sure there are chemicals that will dissolve it - but not anything you want to be around.
Scrape as much off as you can then remove hardened stuff mechanically.
There’s a sweet spot when the 2-part has hardened but not cured and it sometimes comes off in one slightly rubbery piece.
Quite satisfying.Once you’ve sanded metal tools you’ve provided a perfect key to which subsequent filler will adhere.
It’s a bummer. -
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"Nothing removes material faster than a saw"
An axe? 🤪
Personally I would start knocking the wood off with a wide chisel watching carefully which way the grain wants to break off, making cross chop cuts (like cutting a hinge mortise or whatever) but this does require a 50mm v sharp chisel.
What about stitch drilling a line of vertical holes
Definitely an option - a solution from the pre multi tool days
The mortar under the wooden cill can probably be raked out and replaced to get a good weather seal.
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You're welcome to borrow my belt sander
I think this is a good solution.
I don’t know if a hand saw will get any closer than a circular.
I’d be tempted if I were short on tools to make cross cuts with a tenon saw to as close as possible to the frame then knock off with a chisel- keeping an eye out for the grain wanting to take your hewing past the cuts (if that makes sense?) then finish with the belter.IME (v painful) cycling with a big belt sander and other hand tools in a shoulder bag is a BAD IDEA. Especially if you need to stop suddenly.
But I guess all the kids have proper racks and ting nowadays. -
You only need the big scissor ones for bigger rivets.
Although they’re fun to use.
Lever pliers type work fine on small rivets but are less satisfying and the additional effort can leave you with kinda crooked rivets.
(My only real experience was replacing panels etc on a series 2 Land Rover - so much fun) -
I've realised I need to use higher torque and sharp bits
I got some straight shank dewalt bits recently that have 3 flats ground into the shank - they’re great in my combi drill for plugs.
I had to drill a concrete lintel though recently and didn’t take my SDS to the job.
Got there in the end but each hole began to feel like a Guantanamo stress position torture. -
I guess a 2kg one will still do a bit of chasing if needed right?
Absolutely.
I use my (Metabo) 2kg for all kinds of shit, stripping tile, chasing pipes and cables. Core drilling etc. Wayyyy beyond its capacity.
I have a Chuck adapter (indispensable) to use straight bits and an SDS arbor for holesaws etc.
That drill is a total workhorse. -
Nothing wrong with cheap drills, either of those would be fine for DIY.
The choice depends on what you’re going to be using it for.
If you’re mostly putting in plugs/fixings a 2kg drill is what you need, the extra weight of the ‘breaker’ rotary drill will be a total pain.
If you need to cut channels or do some heavier demolition get the bigger one.Check that whichever drill you get has 3 functions; drill, hammer drill, hammer.
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That sounds like a good system.
My friend probably was going for a more economic solution as he had an industrial unit to sound proof - also the amount of lost space wasn’t as much of an issue as it would be in a house.Other mates of mine built a couple of screening rooms for the cinema film processing place in Soho. They literally built it out of silicone, crates and crates of the stuff - everything was floated on it.
I reckon the green glue is superior but it’s not £2 a tube. -
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Strong work.
👏What are you considering for the sound proofing?
It’s a dark art, my friend just recently soundproofed his recording studio - which is in a building of small industrial units alongside cabinet workshops etc.
He did loads of research.getting the tails to not leak very very slowly is a different matter
Were they leaking from where the brassware threads into the rads?
I’ve recently started using La-Co Slic Tite for that kind of situation (bought on the basis of their spelling and graphic design) its the bomb. -
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I assume there's a reason they're more common there than here.
Sheetrock (pb) and stud walls make fitting one an hour-long job instead of a whole day (!) into bricks and mortar.
There’s also a tradition of design of ‘utility’ fixtures and fittings in the States this cabinet fits into; unselfconscious minimalism/modernism.
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Sorry, I don’t know.
I took 2 of them out of a job (a millionaire art dealer’s pad in Notting Hill) well over a decade ago.
It’s been up in my loft waiting for me to finish my bathroom, I gave the other to a mate.
It’s the kind of utility design you used to be able to buy cheap in the States from McMaster-CarrThis place has a few decent ones.
https://www.bellabathrooms.co.uk/bathroom-furniture/bathroom-cabinets/stainless-steel-cabinets.html?p=2
Alternatively you could also fix through the PB to the brick, use big plugs and a 6mm screw
The head shape is probably just cosmetic