Search results for:

Prolly's new Icarus frame. Thought I'd get it in here quickly before he paints it some god awful colour scheme or ruins it with a nasty build.

It's not the stem it's the bar angle that made me say WTF!?

^^^^^Not to mention that the photo is cock-eyed. I'd ride the shit out of that.

Nevermind...

I sold my Koga 2 weeks ago and just got an email from the guy.
I died a little inside..

:(

Can't believe you got rid of it. I sold the one I got from you and I've constantly regretted it since.

Shitty builds I can tolerate, but stipping/grinding that frame is tragic. If you want something like that, don't pick an ex-pro team bike to bastardise.

I've just re-jigged the stap so it's like the once in the linked picutre and it's definitely better. More secure and the extra ring isn't flopping about.

Yeah, I have the extra strap tucked in like that. It's more having two on the left that seem redundant. I mean, it's not like a ring is going to fail and you need a backup, and if it was to fail, it wouldn't really affect the functioning of the strap, just possibly allow the watch to move on the stap, which wouldn't happen while it was done up on the wrist anway.

Edit: Ah, I see from the second picture that you can do an extra weave thing with the two loops that the strap passes through first to secure that secondary stap bit. That makes sense.

I'd actually been waiting for ages to get one of those Gas Gas Bones Nasa straps for it, but whenever I contacted the guy that makes them he'd have something on and wouldn't be taking orders at the time. That pic pushed me into an interim solution. Love it, though I'm not sure exactly what the function of the extra rings is (other than to look swish) on a 5 ring nato/zulu.

I don't really get it.

Inspired by this picture:

http://www.virtualvendome.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/tumblr_lfmvhaPCHj1qc8le9o1_500.jpg

I went and did this:

Also inpired by that same picture I went and did this :)

Bibs, short sleeve jersey and long sleeve jersey please. In L.

PM'd.

Where did you get the strap? I like the rings/buckles more than the ones I see on ebay.

Not pure porn perhaps, but here seems as good a place as any.

Seems it's built by some new start up in London: http://explorateur.cc/

This is all I could find on it:

This is an EXPLORATEUR.
We’re a small London based custom frame building company.
We only build these frames to order.
Tom Ritchey himself has given us his blessing and official licence to use the Brake-Away system. We slightly customise the seat tube lug and run internal cabling – but the essence of this simple and light system is the same.
This particular bike is a prototype that Rapha used for their 2011 fall/winter photo shoot in Oslo.
It’s a mix of Columbus Spirit and Kaisei tubing – with internal gear and disc brake cabling. Horizontal dropouts and a road/cross geometry.
Fillet brazed with stainless steel dropouts and facing reinforcement rings on head tube, seat tube and bottom bracket.
Custom fillet brazed Columbus Spirit disc forks with internal cabling and SS dropouts.
The build is a mix of Campag Record, custom painted Thomson seatpost and stem, custom 28 hole C20 BrobyCarbon full-carbon clincher rims (Sold at Tokyo Fixed Gear and Condor Cycles. – We also use the BrobyCarbon C40, C50 and C60 super strong carbon clincher rims for cross. Top kit at very reasonable prices!), Tune custom Campag disc hubs, Fizik saddle, Lizard Skins bar tape, Ritchey WCS bars, Conti tyres, Elite SS cages, Chris King headset, FSA/TA chainset and a full Token alu build kit.
This bike is set to do all the Rapha Cyclo-Cross races this winter + the Paris-Roubaix Challenge next year with Rapha and Rouleur.
We build with both Reynolds, Columbus and Kaisei tubing – and potentially also the new KVA stainless tubing in the near future.

I'm pretty interested in that Ritchey seat tube/splitter lug thing. The head tube all looks solid, so I'm assuming there is another splitter at the BB shell?

http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport1/hi/olympics/15196177.stm

Enough time for Millar to get his case in?

I'm looking for what I would call a collet. Most likely brass, but I can't find what I'm after with Google to save my life!

I have those Planet X CNC brakes and don't trust the little barrel thing that clamps onto the brake cable so wanted to run the wire through a collet before the barrel, bend the cable round the barrel and back up through the collet again and then have that clamp both runs of cable together to prevent the barrel slipping and leaving me hurtling toward a bend at 40mph without a brake.

Anyone know what I'm talking about or where I could find one?

Edit: Nevermind, they're called shaft collars or set screw collars.

no

£20 posted?

Just how crazy do you have to be to ride an OTP track bike on the road?

I manage 150 miles of commuting every week on pretty rough city/major town roads without an issue on a Look 464. 7600 hubs, H+ SL42 rims, Re-fuse tyres, Deda pista drops. For me it's totally comfortable and the perfect fast commuter. With 25c tyres there really isn't much difference between it and my Ti roadie on 23c tyres as far as comfort/harshness goes.

Much obliged. Going through it now.

Turning right at a roundabout, car coming from the opposite side decides to straightline the rounabout without looking, t-bones me at 25mph just as I'm about to exit roundabout. Bike at police station to be collected and inspected later.

The front corner of the car hit the front half of the bike (throwing me over the bonnet to smash the windscreen with my head, nice!). It hit hard enough to put a 45 degree bend in some alloy drops. Only other damage (from what I could tell when in shock, dazed & confused by the roadside immediately following the accident) seems to be from the bike bouncing/sliding down the road and some destroyed kit.

Question is regarding the fork. Even if it looks perfectly fine, would it be wise to trust a full carbon fork with carbon steerer that's taken an impact in one of the blades and one that hit the bars enough to banana them? Surely that impact to the bars is going to have sent some serious forces through the steerer? Stem is slammed, so not so much moment/leverage about the top of the headset I suppose, but still.

Is it something I should be asking to be replaced regardless of how it appears visually?

The regular Spesh Pro? Unfortunately the ponce in me requires a white saddle, else I'd probably have taken you up on it.

The one that I've been lusting after is this one: http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=64273

I was hooked on the C.One nack because it's just pure saddle porn and has the exact colours in the right proportions to match my frame, but I just don't know if I could get on with it having no padding and no cutout, and am yet to hear from the dealer about their try-out options. Then I came across the S-Works Toupe which seems like the perfect combination.

Perfect apart from the fact it's stupid money and they appear to be impossible to source in the UK. I'm friendly with my local Specialized dealer though and usually can get stuff at cost...may be forced to pop in to make enquiries.

Edit: Just heard back from Prologo. All 8mm nack rails are fine with 3T posts, but special care must be taken to not apply more torque than 3T recommend, which was pretty much a given.

Yeah, I checked the Specialized site since they have their support/manuals.tech info online and for their carbon railed saddles, they ignore clamping type and focus purely on the distance between the top clamps and the distance from those to the start of the upward curve at the front and back of the rail. Prologo got back to me, but need to know the specific saddles I was looking at since they have three different spec'd rails. Will hopefully get confirmation today. Also speaking to their UK distributor about their 'try & buy' scheme since their saddles are an obscene amount to fork out on speculatively. I have to admit that I'm looking at Prologo just because I love the style of them and am a bit bored of the Romins that I have on all my other bikes which work better than anything else I've tried so far. Maybe I should just be sensible and get another, maybe the new Pro version.

As for set back, I think I'm in a bit of a difficult situation. I already have an inline zero setback Doric on my Van Nicholas with a Romin. Over time I've moved the saddle about and where it's settled, it's slammed completely rearward, so much so that the front of the bottom clamp is slightly overlapping the upward curve at the front of the rail. But the Romin seems to have a fraction over 3cm of adjustment on a 3T post and the Dorico just so happens to have 3cm of set back. So eyeballing it last night and experimenting (VN and R3 have same seat tube angle) it appears that I have the choice of almost slammed forward on a set back post or slammed back on an inline. I really need a post with 1.5cm of setback. I think the set back is the best option, but I'd need to check more carefully, take proper measurements and compare them with the numbers from Spesh to make certain.

Good to hear about the brakes. I was sure I'd read positive things about them. They came with Swissstop green pads as standard.

That Pro seat post looks pretty similar to the Dorico and that's promising, but I'm still a little concerned since the Dorico's upper clamps look a lot thinner and more likely to create high stress points than the Pro.

I've e-mailed Prologo to see what they say.

Maybe worth noting that Rapha are doing no quibble 30 day trials of their classic softshell at the moment. If you have the coin to layout for the test duration, it may be worth a bash.