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m4s and minis need the same bleeding process. the only difference is the number of pistons you have to ensure are pushed back into place first.
i love building my own bikes. out of the 15 or so bikes ive had over the past 15 years only one has been an off the peg. ive built all the rest. you get such a sense of ownership that way. in total i must have built a hundred bikes for various people. -
nice frame. hope m4s are pretty easy to bleed. even for a novice. youll need an 8mm spanner to do it. it is possibe to go it pretty easily without the hope bleed kit. just need some rubber hose and an empty bottle. if youre using a star nut in the fork steerer then youll need to get that hammered into the fork steerer and take care when trimming the steerer tube down it you need to.
if you have any kind of technical aptitude then its pretty easy to build a bike. just take your time and check what youre doing is correct if your unsure.
always happy to help.
i take it you got a stem? -
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its the bottom paragraph on the linked page you posted. specsavers?
PhilcentricTM
The Philcentric provides 1/4" of eccentricity for OBB cranks. The Philcentrichas a similar outward appearance as the OBB cups and will thread directly into a threaded bottom bracket shell (available in all threadings). The Philcentric has discrete fixed positions every 15 degrees. The maximum looseness that may be found in the chain will be no more the thickness of two business cards. The Philcentric uses the same 6805 bearings as standard OBB cups. -
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ive never seen them as an aftermarket item. they are usually cast along with the tread and welded/brazed to the frame. id have a word with the frame builder. it may be a part he has/can get.
alternatively, make them yourself. not impossible to make, but a bit fiddly. made some once and it took ages. they were for some marzocchi suspension fors though so slightly different. -
that wasnt the exact method that i was thinking of, but its exactly the same principal. this does however assume that the thread is ok in the insert. if the thread is fucked, then it makes it infinitely more dificult as you need to re tap the insert first, assuming its not damaged beyond repair. this is what makes this case a whole lot more complicated. id attempt this method first though before trying to get the old insert out, because as scherrit says, that is not a fun job at all.
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im not saying the headsets swimming in grease, but a little smear is always prudent. it can help it all settle in nicely. 10 years working in an lbs taught me that. i would possibly say that maybe it isnt the headset making your noise. noises can often sound like theyre coming from one place but actually theyre coming from somewhere else. just a thought.
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Undibs the track flyer. Sorry hilary.