Search results for:

One of the things I learnt from the frame building course was, that as a beginner, it is not something that you can just dabble in. If you buy this kit (or something similar) and an oxy-acetylene set, plus metalworking tools, don't expect to make your perfect frame the first time. You'll probably go through lots of tubes before you make your first decent frame, so you might as well buy decent kit to start with.

Oh, and according to Dave Yates, you don't actually need a jig. A perfectly flat surface will do. And Ceeway sell practice tubes and lugs cheaply.

Stripped thread = new hub.

You know it makes sense.

Shimano had a similar idea in the 70's with the larger sprockets on the freewheel. And no doubt other makers have tried it in the past.

Wheel, reinventing the.

Common, very.

Does MDF burn? Does it give off any nasty fumes when heated? I'm not sure I'd want to be using oxy-acetylene near MDF.

I say this after spending a week on Dave Yates' frame building course. Accuracy with a flame and solder does not come easily (for me at any rate). Expect hot, molten brass to be spread liberally to start with.

Looks a bit too cheap to me. Take a look at some motorcycle dealers such as Hein Gerike, M&P or Buster's Accessories. There are better quality alarmed padlocks out there. Xena is a known brand that comes to mind.

Maybe Phil Wood hubs are different but I've always found that freewheel and fixed sprocket threads are the same. It is only the width of the threaded part that are different.

If it was me, i'd go for Option 2
Use the same size freewheel as you fixed cog.

It is now day 3, so I know 3 times more than I did on Monday, although 3 times not a lot is still not a lot.

Do I get to join in after day 1 of 5 on Dave Yates' frame building course?

After my knee op, I was sent for physiotherapy where they started me on really gentle exercises. What they didn't know was that I cycled to and from the sessions. After a couple of weeks of this they cottoned on that what I was doing for myself was far and away better and discharged me :-)

SJS cycles are pretty good at that sort of thing.

You can also get 5 speed Sturmey hubs in 120mm

Wiggo was a member of Paddington CC? I never knew that. After my time, of course. We both grew up in Paddington but that is as much as we have in common.

I've been through this myself, and yes I am a stranger but I'm also a doctor (really).

Basically, you can start cycling whenever you feel up to it. If anything cycling is better than walking or running as it is non-weight bearing. Cycle on a trainer first if you don't feel up to going out.

Start with short periods and build it up gradually. Don't have a pre-determined distance that you must do. Don't worry if the knee is a bit more sore after the exercise than before, it is unlikely you are doing any damage. You may also benefit from other exercises such a yoga or weights to build up flexibility and muscle strength.

This is a very common job, so most frame builders/repairers will do it.

The length of the seat post is usually the length of the seat post. Ignore the saddle clamp and measure the straight bit all the way to the end.

Obviously not a fan of the keep it simple philosophy of bike building. I like the term "lug-wank". Never read it before. Sums it up nicely.

Seems like a sledge hammer to crack a nut.

I take it these are square taper. If so, then use a proper crank puller, with an extension on the handle if necessary to provide more force.

I would, but I'd need lots of notice as I live in Carlisle.

I spent a week cycling in Luxembourg, it was a very enjoyable trip and beautiful countryside. Only problem is that this was in 1979 and I can't remember any of the details.

Well, he hadn't changed a bit since I last saw him, which was in 1979, when I left London (and Paddington CC).

Is that Paul Shuttleworth on the right in the back row?

TBH, I couldn't figure out what you were trying to describe either.

No, but a bottom bracket spacer, although unthreaded, will do the job. Unscrew the freewheel, put the spacer on and screw the freewheel back on, and hey presto, your chain line is now 2mm further out.

It's not that Santini sizes are small, it is that they use a different sizing scheme. I usually take L but all my Santini stuff is labelled XXL for exactly the same size, with the exception of Santini kit from Prendas Cyclismo which is labelled the British way.