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More pictures :)

Hi there

After almost 5 years and 5600 miles of grinding my way up everything locally, I've just replaced these with a compact crankset for some nice spinny comfort.

The chainrings have obviously seen better days considering the mileage, particularly the outer - the "chain saver" pin behind the crank arm is missing, for example. The inner isn't as bad and I've avoided cross chaining throughout their use.

While the arms aren't cosmetically tip-top, any blemishes are minor and they're still very nice light, stiff cranks with both arms and the spider being crabon fibré. All threads/mating surfaces are in fine condition.

May be ideal for a crit/race bike where big rings and a crash-friendly budget are helpful.

As per the title the specs are:
Length: 170mm
BB: GXP BB86
Rings: Standard 53/39
BCD: 130mm (not compatible with compact rings)

These'll need to be paypalled and posted as I'm outside London, and I'd like £45 posted via courier for these.

Thank you! ☺️

No filing necessary - it's a thorn fork, so mounts galore and the geometry seems to work out.

Just used a couple of spacers to get it to clear the fork and/or brake

It's back on the road, all smooth and silent, and I like it enough that I can forget the horrendous overspend on both powdercoat and workshop costs.

The sparkles aren't easy to do justice but they're real nice.

Ahhh right you are! I thought I could see one in the photo bit it must've been something on the hub 😑

I think the forks just arent made for that rack.

Nah they'll go:

Looks like you've got your mudguard stay mounted to the rearmost hole on the pannier rack strut?

If you mount the the mudguard stays to the fork mount you're currently using the rack, then mount the rack above the QR (poss with the aid of a spacer to help clearance) it'll push the front of the rack struts up and they'll be more horizontal.

Sorry that's a bit of a complicated explanation but it's how I mounted my rack to solve a similar problem. I'd take photos of my setup but the bike's in bits.

Yeah way faster than I expected! Hopefully it lasts well. Forgot to say that the mechanic also agreed to chuck some ACF-50 I bought inside the frame, so that should keep things bubble-free for a while.

I'm getting it done at a place called Bettablast (up here in Newcastle). My mechanic recommended it and I later found out it's the facility of choice for a lot of cyclists round this way.

And they had a dog in their office, which almost makes the above inconsequential.

13/10 good boy would stroke again.

Doppelpost

I think I started the thread before I got the frame and edited that title in later once it arrived and was green.

This is roughly my maximum level of wit.

Because it was my wee Granny Smith coloured baby!

A small update to say it's in for powdercoat.

I overspent by about 100% after adding the tubus rack & light bracket to the job, and because they didn't have any nice greens and the metallic colours were pricey. I wanted to go right into NAHBS Wank territory and get my frame pump done too, but there was a little plastic bung in the end that I couldn't get out :(

The phonecall from the mechanic as he was stripping it was also a lot of fun. It had:

1. Seized front skewer (now destroyed)
   
2. Stuck seatpost
   
3. Stretched chain
   
4. worn chainring
   
5. and a pretty much brand new derailleur that's incompatible with my
   shifters.
   
   

I thought it was just mis-shifting because I hadn't set it up well enough.

Anyway hoping to get it back in for the service/rebuild on Monday or Tuesday :)

Hah! Thanks 😇A mate has been caning it all year but crashed about 4 times and cracked some ribs in the process so I don't feel tooo bad.

I'm gonna get it coated and the forks are going in too as they're starting to show a little surface rust themselves 😑

Currently thinking about a darker, more olive- green or a very dark metallic grey.

Dredging this up as the rust is getting quite bad so I'm getting it stripped and coated and rebuilt. I've been doing very little riding this year (<500 miles so far) so I'm hoping that throwing some money at this will force my hand a bit.

I really like the green, but it could be interesting to change it up but I'm not sure what colour.

I predict when we all realise our flashy / not so flashy dynohubs all die we will be getting into the new era 'bottle' dynamos. Apparently they rest on the rim (not tyre) and are very low resistance.

Isn't there a really nifty german one of these that I'm too lazy to look up?

@Alan_tbt It does :)

No idea I'm afraid! Ison are Shutter Precision's UK distributors so it's likely specific to SP hubs.

Tested again with the multimeter last night and while there's a bit of resistance, there's no voltage at all, so I think it's pretty much dead. I guess it hasn't done too badly for being submerged a few times during its 5500 miles.

I emailed Ison earlier yesterday to see if they could put me in touch with SP for an out of warranty repair, and they said this:

Naturally, as the SP units are produced in Taiwan, the practical option for UK customers to send a single hub to the factory for servicing is – at best awkward.

Therefore, SP and Ison have devised a UK warehouse exchange hub system that provides fast and cost effective options for SP customers that require hub service assistance outside of their normal 2 year warranty period.

They'll build a new hub into my wheel for £50 so I'm just going to get that done. Apparently will take around a week, so I'm pretty happy with that.

Anything!

Have another test for the hub, found on another forum:

Use the multimeter on resistance and without turning the wheel check for a reading across the two hub terminals. This should be very low, mine measures 2.5 ohms. This is the coil of the generator. If there is no reading then the rotation has severed a connection internally, the coil wires will be very thin.

So hopefully this confirms it one way or the other!

Ah that's cool. Glad that doesn't mean the lights are wrecked then. Thanks for the advice :)

Erm, well I don't really know how to use the multimeter but it's similar to this and the settings it has to read Volts AC are 600 and (edit)200.

My understanding is that you set the multimeter to the next rating up from the output you expect. So in this case I had to set it to 400 and as the hub was stopping, 2.5 flashed up on the readout.

It feels like the hub might be dead if there's nothing when it's rotating at speed...

Hoping someone can help me diagnose a problem as I'm unsure as to which part of my lighting setup is broken :|

I returned a Luxos U after it wouldn't stay on for more than 5 minutes, replaced with an Edelux 2 which I just tried to connect to the SP-8D hub (and B+M Secula rear-light) today.

No light anywhere :(

I dug out a multimeter that I don't really know how to use and found:

Hub: Continuity across the connectors, but no output at high speed, with ~2.5 output at low speed/just about to stop. (multimeter set at 200v AC - bike in the workstand)

Edelux No continuity at the ends of the dynamo cable. Continuity at the rear ends of the output/ground cable.
Secula No continuity across the light connectors.

I should be at least getting continuity at the Edelux's dynamo connectors, shouldn't I?

I did (foolishly) connect the rear up before testing the front alone. Is it possible that I've wired up the Secula the wrong way round and blown everything? There's no polarity marks on the Secula :(

Any advice would be deeply appreciated. I have no idea what I'm doing.

Hiya! Gad I've not been on here in ages!

It didn't. It did just get a new rear hub after the old one ground to a halt mid-commute and sheared pitlock skewer in the process 😑

I've been riding a bit less generally so it's slipped down my list of priorities a bit although I did the overnighter century thing in Scotland with it, and it's female usurper which was really lush. I'm still really enjoying it ☺️

Hiya

I'd like to get some power on my other half's bike so would love to hear about any 700c, dynamo hubbed wheels that are for sale.

I'd need it posting to Sunderland, too.

Cheers!
Mat

Oh that looks rad! Will match my panniers when I inevitably steal it back, too :D

Oh that's nice, thanks. Dunno why I didn't look into Carradice properly. Definitely up her street as far as style goes, too!

Can anyone recommend a good bag for drop bars?

My other half needs some luggage & snack capacity on an overnighter, so I'd like to get her a bar bag for food/essentials and a seatpack. Alpkit's stuff is the cheapest I know of - unfortunately I don't have the budget for Apidura or Revelate. Any other bags I should look at?

(I should say that her frame is super small so a frame bag of meaningful capacity is probably out of the question)

And @Scrabble that looks really awesome, I love your camping setup!