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What’s the best way to fix this rubbing to the paint on the top tube of my winter bike? I’m not sure how it happened as my knees track pretty straight either side of the TT and it’s only on one side. Maybe from shouldering it during off road duties - very thin paint regardless.
Would t cut help blend it or should I do a localised spray repair? I don’t really want to make it any worse and if any repair is going to be visible then I’d prefer just to cover it in some 3m clear tape to stop it getting any worse…
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Cheers @TooTallTim and @PhilDAS, I've ordered one of the epic bleed kits
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I want to get a bleed kit for my sram force brakes. At the moment they are the only discs I have but I’d like the kit to be future proof to work with a range of other manufacturers eg Campagnolo/Shimano etc. I don’t imagine I’ll be bleeding brakes that often but I’d rather buy a decent set once than buying cheap stuff that doesn’t work properly. Is the Park Tool the best option or are the kits on “epic bleed” decent?
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Not sure if seeing Scherrit is an option for you but I don't think there is anything SMP related that he doesn't know...
It seems like you're having ongoing issues with the SMP from previous posts... maybe it's not the saddle for you, or maybe it's not the saddle at all and the issue is biomechanical? I don't know, I'm not a bike fitter but it sounds frustrating and I hope you find a solution soon. Neill Stanbury has some handy videos on youtube; if you've not seen them before you might find them worth a watch.
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Thanks both, I went for the Feedback sports velo hinge which is like your suggestion @6pt except it can pivot both ways.
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I want to hang three road bikes in this space. I’m thinking it will be good if they’re able to be angled out from the wall (~90 degrees) rather than perpendicular to the wall as being on the angle will reduce the overall height they stick out from the wall and hopefully avoid boffing anyone walking through in the face. What is the best angled bracket out there that would hold the bike vertically by one wheel? I like the idea that it could be adjustable on the angle but I could also build up an angled packer to go between the wall and a regular fixed bracket
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First up a pair of lightly used GP5000 in 25mm flavour - removed from a set of wheels from my summer bike last year as I only ride tubeless now. Only had one puncture from memory, please see ware indicators to get a sense of life left. How does £20 sound.
Next a single 28c GP5000S TR tyre, one puncture which I plugged and was fine afterwards. Please see the photo. This is more used than the GP5000 tyres above but still good for a while left. How does £10 sound?
Will need to post most likely as in Cornwall but will only charge cost of posting eg £3.49
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@BrickMan and @M_V Thanks both. I’m using the specific SRAM tool and exact methodology as shown in SRAM’s own video
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3700KNVFR_4&pp=ygUPU3JhbSBjaGFpbiB3ZWFy -
I rode 180km on Saturday from Cornwall to Exeter. The lanes were foul (lots of sections underwater and lots of debris on the roads), my garmin sent me off road for a bit, and by the time I’d gotten to Exeter I’d ended up doing almost 4000m of climbing which is not wild - it’s what I normally average each week. I’d fitted a new Force flattop chain 40km before the ride and prior to that the whole Force AXS drivetrain had only done 1224km as it’s a relatively new build.
I measured the new chain yesterday after giving the bike a proper clean and it’s almost showing at 0.8 already on my SRAM chain checker. 0.8 is when sram recommend changing 12 speed flattop chains. It seems wild to have only gotten 220km out of a chain before needing to replace it again… any theories out there?
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I want to build a workshop/garden studio here that adheres to the rules of permitted development. Rather than build it set in from the rear and party wall (thus losing space behind and to the RHS) I’m wondering about whether I could use the rear and party wall as two of the four walls of the workshop. They would need rebuilding as the current walls are crap. How complicated is this likely to be logistically in terms of paperwork? I’m guessing I’d need a party wall agreement and possibly planning permission from the council for changing the rear wall? There is a small service alley behind that the bin lorry uses and also there is a telegraph pole set just behind our wall which complicates things too. If it is too much hassle we will just set in in with a small alley behind but we’re keen to maximise space
I’m crap with maths - is there an accurate way to work backwards from a 70 minute effort to calculate ftp?