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I am restoring another Alan Shorter and would like to purchase period correct Campag Record items.
I am after a double strada chainset with 170 mm cranks. Rear 6 speeed changer.
These will get the cycle useable but I would like to change the brakes and front changer to Record as well.

I am also trying to build up a data base of Alan Shorters frame numbering system and possible from that get an idea of the production figures, if you have an older Alan Shorter or Shorter then could you please let me have the frame number and what kind of frame it is ( track or road ).

For my original one bought new in 1963/4 a pair of wood insert 28 hole rims.
Many thanks
Barry Adams lot14atbtinternetdotcom

I had a tdc headset and bottom bracket done by http://www.butterworthsplating.co.uk
They are in Ramsgate did a really good job, the headset was well pitted before they worked on it and its like new now.

You will possible come across a firm called Ashford plating they do not plate in their own premises but farm it out !!!!

wire brush - rust killer - wash off - paint

Water points on the Kennet and Avon below Newbury are few and far between ( I dont know the situaction above Newbury ) also they may well be in a locked box or building and for that you will need a Canal and river trust key ( look on ebay ). This key will open the toilets as well.

This is a repeat of my previous ad.
About 1000 ( one thousand ) audio tapes most will have music of various types on so will need wiping off before re-use. Free to anyone who can collect but a donation to this site would be a good idea.Collect from near Maidstone. Failing that it will be the local tip for them. Various makes, grades and length of tapes.
It seems a shame to skip them but if no takers then that will happen.

They are not pre-recorded but all will have music on them which will be needed to be wiped before re-use. They were my late brothers and I am clearing out his stuff.

Audio tapes

I have a large number of used casette tapes to get rid of. They are in proper boxes and there are about 1000.
Various makes and types. If anybody wants them before they go to the tip then for a donation to this site they are yours. I am between Maidstone and Ashford in Kent so car collection will be needed.

The alloy flanges can be removed and replaced. This means that the barrel can be rechromed. If you then want to get the flanges either polished or anodized before refitting them then it a easy job.

I am after a pair of wood insert sprint rims 28 spoke holes in both please, Not fussed about make but Scheeren or a very obscure Australian make Freebain ( not 100% sure of the spelling ) are ones that come to mind. They are for my Alan Shorter to get it back to how it was raced a long time ago by me.
Would take a pair of wheels if need be - hub make is not important as I have a pair of record hubs waiting for the rims to hopefully make an appearance. Yes I have tried Hilary Stone just in case anyone is kind enough to suggest it. Thanks Barry

17.campagnolo record front track hub high flange 28h vgc 45gbp posted

I would like this please.
Private message to follow.

Sorry do not know the pitch but a shop that sells studding will also have 10mm nuts and I would think they would be the course pitch as that is fairly standard. You could also try any garage / car spares place.

A 10mm diameter thread can have 3 different pitches.
What is referred to as course will have a pitch of 1.5mm between the tops of two adjoining threads.
There are two other pitches which are not very common these are 1.25 fine and 1.0 extra fine between the tops of two adjoining threads.

If its a taper roller headset bearing then they must not be done up tight there must be a little bit of movement. I do not know if non taper roller bearing also need a little bit of movement as well perhaps you could try loosening it of a bit.

I had the decals for Alan Shorter drawn for me by one of the members on this site.
They have been printed now and as it was done as a favour !!! I now have quite a few spares.
I have just two Alan Shorters to refurb so there are plenty over.
Both addresses for the head / seat tube badge and two different colours for the block
"Alan Shorter " lettering ( pale green and yellow/gold both with a black outline ).
If anyone would like a set please get in touch. I would want a photo of the frame in question including the frame number.
There would be no charge but I would ask that a donation is made to this website.
I am happy to pay the postage ( uk only) as that will be included in your donation.

A machine shop with a milling machine would be be to mount the forks horizontally and then put either smaller milling cutter down the remains of the stem until its thin enough to break it up or if the have a cutter of the correct size mill the remains of the stem away.

If the stem is Aluminum then the caustic soda will work.

The answer is yes to both all threads will strip in enough force is used.
Fixed sprocket, do it up as tight as you can by either a chain wrench or riding the bike with the lock nut off and standing on the pedals as hard as you can, stop by using the brake and then put the lock nut on.
Axle will be much easier to strip the thread, so use the spanner of the correct length for the nut provided you do not use all your strength to do the nut up you should be fine or you can use a torque wrench set at the correct figure for the size of thread. Doing nuts and bolts up is like a lot of things in life you learn by experience.

[QUOTE=madman;4357841]It´s not a money thing, it´s just that having to replace the cleats every 2 or 3 months gets quite annoying. If I have to do that, I´d rather change to a system that works properly and needs less manteinance.

That would be a front brake.

If you can grip the cog in a large well secured vice it may well undo, some heat on the cog will help but let the cog get cold before you try to undo it. Aluminium expands more than steel so at first the cog will be on tighter hence let it cool. Try turning the wheel a bit to tighten the cog first as well. Put some lubricant on the threads, if you can get it some diesel fuel will do. Other than that it may well be a very careful job with a Dremel or similar to cut away the cog enough to break it across the threaded part.

From the frame, head tube length and diameter for the new forks to fit.

Fork Rake
see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_geometry

As a car driver and ex cyclist, Led lighting is a point source whereas the old style bulbs with a large reflector gave a more general light ( rear light ) I see cyclists in the dark much better if the have a steady not flashing rear light mounted on the the bike not high on the clothing. Although I cannot state this as a fact I would think that most drivers are looking at a height above the ground about the height of most cars rear lights. If you compare the area of a single or three led cycle light to the area of a car rear light then the cycle one is mush less.
Another point to think about is that many years ago when I ws both cycling and driving in central London and other roads in the 30 mph limits most car drivers drove with just the sidelights on not dip beam as is now. The ambient lighting levels are higher now and a small pin point light on a cycle is much harder to see.

[QUOTE=Hilly Ben;4089820]seat post size will give you the most information
27.2 = top quality frame, Reynolds 531/Columbus SL
26.8 = mid level i.e columbus Aelle(usually)
26.4 = hmmm Belgian half decent but common and you'll never find the builder, or british middle of the road

Not all Reynolds 531 will take a 27.2 seat post. The frame tubing was supplied in various internal diameters so although 27.2 may well be 531 just because it takes a different size does not mean it is not 531.
My own Alan Shorter (made for me in 1963) is double butted 531 with a seat post diameter of 26.8

A couple of ways.
A hair dryer or a heat gun, go easy with the heat gun.
or
You can buy a label removing liquid from a stationery shop.

In order to bring my Alan Shorter back to how I raced it many years ago I am after the following.
I pair 28 hole F&R large flange Airlite hubs either single/double fixed or fixed/freewheel.
1 pair wood insert 28 hole rims. 27" for tubs

Thanks
Barry

Cannot help with your "is it normal".

If it was mine I would make a short sleeve to fit over the threads with a diameter to fit in the fork dropouts and just a little bit shorter than the drop out width.