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Motor cycles jumbles might well have a nut and bolt supplier. I was at one recently and there were 2 stands with British Standard Cycle Thread nuts and bolts in Stainless steel or non stainless steel.
not a lot of use to the person starting this thread but one to remember.

On another topic one of the best penetrating fluids is diesel fuel.

good site for classic frames,bikes and parts

http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk.
Look in the readers bikes section and there are some Freddy Grubb mentioned

I would like to purchase a pair of early Campag record large flange 28/28 track hubs.
They have to be tidy but not pristine. A pair of 27 inch sprints with these hubs would be an alternative.
Thanks
Barry

Devcon look it up on google

The grooves form the cutting edge and also allow the swarf to come out in smaller pieces.
If you have access to it use some cutting fluid if not ordinary oil is better than nothing.
I would also advise one half turn forward then one whole turn back this allows the die to break the swarf into a shorter length and helps to cut a cleaner thread.

Have a look at "fat nicks " website http://www.fatnick.com
Its not been updated for a while but plenty of 6 day pics plus other stuff.
Ghent 6 is superb 166 meter track length and 24 riders battling it out.
3 abreast behind the dernys on the last lap or two really gives food for thought.

9mm x 1mm die available from

http://www.tapdie.com/html/metric_dies_fine_or_dies_metri.html

contact Martin Coopland at Reclassicbike@aol.com. Martin Coopland also holds the original records of Bates frame numbers.

This is for Slangen. I have some airlights and if you are really stuck I can get hold of an ordinary track nut and take it down to the right thickness for you. Do you need a front or a rear.

Most 60s road frames were built with the standard 72x72 frame angles. I still have my Alan Shorter track/time trial frame built for me in 1963/4. its got steep angles and very very little fork offset. Very difficult to ride hands off but also very responsive. Is it possible to measure the angles. Take the angles from the top tube to the head ( steerer ) tube and the same to the seat tube.
Also you could look at the " http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk site for a visual site of the older designs.

I have a friend who is very good with ally welding ( tig ) lives near Cantebury Kent