Search results for:

Yep. It'd be interesting to ride one. It looks like the perfect low-maintenance brake for cheap utility bicycles. I wonder if it adds much drag or how hard it is to change a puncture.

There's nothing to 'mature' on half of them though, just a plain blue square! I think I'll ask for a replacement pack of the colour stuff - seeing as the camera works and the silver shade works, I suppose it's not unreasonable to assume that there's something wrong with the film. If I can't get that pack to come out properly then I'll stick with the silver - it's too expensive to waste money experimenting with it (not that there are many settings to play with on my polaroid anyway).

Yeah I know how to use a Polaroid camera. Like I said, the b&w ones come out fine, just not the colour ones.

I've got the Polaroid for novelty value, not for serious photography. It's great fun at a party.

Anyone here got a Polaroid? I've been using the PX 600 film, the silver shade is okay-ish but the colour ones are totally crap (as in, you can barely make anything out at all). Wasted a whole cartridge yesterday and didn't get a single viewable photo out of it, half of them were completely blank. Bit annoying as it's £2 a pop. Anyone got any tips? The camera and film is nice and warm, I've tried it with the light adjust set both to darkest and lightest, and I've been using a bit of cloth bluetacked to the front of the camera to shield it immediately.

Also got a Nikon F50 and a 1960s Regula Sprinty 'B'. Both are a bit naff but they're fun and I got them for free.

Yeah I've been reading about Long Johns and the brakes they used, interesting stuff.

I might test ride a Pashley to see what drum brakes are like. I can't decide whether to have drums or centrepull calipers on my audaxy/tourery bike when I finally get around to building it.

Have you seen this?

**Simple, reliable, low maintenance, and apparently works better in the wet than when dry. I don't suppose you can find the rims any more though. **

I always wonder why disc brakes are so popular on town bikes. Obviously on a cargo bike you've got a lot of weight, but on a town bike you're not gonna be carrying more than your weight + maybe 10kg.

Considering that disc brakes need servicing/replacement parts relatively often, and that they're quite fragile (discs bent doing the bike rack shuffle), you'd think that more town bikes would have hub brakes - as well as being impervious to weather, they're robust and almost maintenance free.

Plus I think hub brakes are actually lighter.
Shimano Deore XT brake setup (I couldn't find a total weight for everything listed anywhere so I had to add up parts which might not be the exact same combo of parts that you'd buy from a shop, but it should be a reasonably accurate estimate)
lever = 240g
caliper inc lines = 450g
disc = 160g
hub = 260g
total = 1,110g

Sturmey Archer XFD hub
hub = 770g
cable lever = 180g (ish)
total = 950g

I also remember reading about oversize hub brakes that had stopping power comparable to disc brakes. Heavier, for sure, but with some development (remember that disc brakes have already had a head-start in development) I imagine the weight could be shaved down a little, too.

My old 1950 Claud Butler International Club. Gorgeous frame but sadly too small for me - finally sold it about a month ago.

My old Townsend MTB. Deraillers donated to a friend, seat and post on my other bike, bottom bracket has finally crumbled into dust so I've decided to get rid of it. Tried to give it away for free on various forums and nobody wanted it. Tried to give it to local bike recycling charity and they didn't want it. So I rode it into town and left it there. It's been in York centre unlocked for two months now and still nobody has taken it

Can't remember what movement off the top of my head but I paid 220 for it. I'd prefer a mid 50s model with sub-seconds and the pointy triangular shaped hands but they seem to go for about 400-500, so out of my price range right now

Like so:

My girlfriends mid-80s bike was built for an SA hub and the dropouts are normal - I now have that SA hub on my commuter and the axle is actually thicker than normal (M12 rather than M10 by the looks of it), not thinner. Plus your frame looks too nice to be SA equipped!

I have had old French hubs from the 50s or 60s (and English hubs too come to think of it) that used M8 axles rather than M10, but that frame isn't from the 50s or 60s by the looks of it.

Give it a little bend with molegrips I say. It's only 1mm.

Yeah, they beat the shit out of the Pashley Postmaster.

No, but you can make me an offer if you like.

Anyone interested in buying a Braun AW22? Like so:

I collect old Braun stuff and I got this on ebay for £90-or-so quid, new in box. I wore it once but I don't think I'll ever wear it. It's mint other than the strap is a little bit folded where I put it through the buckle. In original box, £60 posted, I can get pics of the actual thing if people PM me.

Also I got me a Seamaster. It's a plain model circa 1960, but I like 'em plain, and it means they're cheaper too.

Rear does look like Chorus.

And Peugeot do make some decent bike, what Peugeot frame did you have?

1985 PH11 with a 103 frame. Paid 100 for it, with those parts plus a Brooks b17 plus wheels build with mavic ma2 rims on Campagnolo Record hubs. Keeping the wheels for my vintage Bianchi that I haven't bought yet, and selling the rest.

Phwoar. It's a crappy frame but it had some good parts on it!

Apologies for geared bits, these came off a Peugeot I'm making into my winter bike. The Pug's from 1985 but I'm assuming these are newer:

Chainset is campagnolo, you could just about read the logo before I cleaned them up. Also does anyone know how many speeds the rear derailler will take.

Hi all,

Anyone got a 700c hub geared wheel for sale? LBS will build one with my old SA hub for £80 (£30 labour, £30 spokes and £20 rim, seems a bit expensive to be honest) but I'm after something cheaper, it's only for my winter bike after all.

I live in Coventry but can collect from York also, so I guess the seller would have to be willing to post.

Or 22.2mm BMX seatpost + 0.9mm brass shim as has been done before.

I have a Peugeot with a 24mm seatpost with a Brooks B17 stuck on top. The clamp bolt has completely rounded so I'm stuck with the B17. I want to swap it for my Brooks Team Professional and sell the B17. Might have to angle-grinder the seatpost apart, there's no chance of getting a drill in there...

I've got some honey Brooks tape for sale, it's not new so where it has been exposed it's been darkened. It's hardly been used though, so in good nick. Call it 25 posted? I'll get some pics up in the For Sale section or if PM'd

mr A S Earl

2356 4569 4529 456f

45464

Woah, I've never met anyone with the same surname as me. (No, really, nobody. Mother and brother have stepfather's name, never met father).

^ ah, does the Gator Grip work? Used to have one in our house when I was young:

They're shit on anything tighter than 'loosely done up with a spanner'. And they tend not to work at all on small things.

^ why's the Grifter got a dork disc if it has an SA hub?

Girth is more important than length.

I would suggest against using lacquer if you want your job to last more than a few days. Even if you take great care with the prep, I still find the laquer is seriously brittle. I have gone the matte route on the last couple of bikes I have done, used the toughest rattle-can matte I can and given it as many coats as possible. This seems to be a lot more durable. I hate getting a beautiful finish with the auto lacquers and then having it ruined the first few lamp-posts you chain your bike to.

Does anyone know of any really durable clearcoats you can use if you just want a bare metal bike? Lacquer on bare metal is obviously a stupid idea, but it got me to thinking that there must be some more bombproof straight-to-metal varnishes that would do the job, even if they were paint on.

Yeah you only need lacquer for protecting a metallic finish. No point on solid colours. They're not durable out of a can even if you key the surface properly.

As for clearcoating, I used cheap cellulose clearcoat that I shot out of a gun. It's... not durable. 2pk acrylic might be better. Armourtex do a clear lacquer that I've heard is very durable over bare metal.

Or you could just use a greasy rag.

You need a 'deep' (i.e. long) socket, as they're usually thinner than standard length ones. Any motor factor, tool shop, even Halfords sell them.

Take the bike along to check it fits.