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Any advice on 'classic' dropbars with a relatively shorter reach?
I've read about Nitto Noodles, but they're not widely available 2nd handed.I'm checking my options for combining a tad shorter stem and a bit less reach in the bars towards the hoods to keep the overall look a bit more balanced, for as far as possible.
Setup now:

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About a year ago there was a one like that^^^ for sale on 'Dutch eBay' in my size.
Still regret not buying it.. Love that cromovelato.(Just saw Erik had one for sale recently, although not my size.
https://www.lfgss.com/attachments/45725d1320608131-img_2978.jpg) -
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heh! why don't all you art student guys on here come up with a more tasteful alternative and go bother (thread subscribers and) Gazelle headquarters with it!? ;)
Excellent idea! I have been contemplating doing so indeed ;) but have been unable to find the spare time so far...
Ha, first thing I thought upon seeing that^ too.
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Not completely on topic, but as this thread has lots of exposure, I thought this would be a good place to post.
As we know, with the recent trend of bare metal frames, clear paint, nor clear powdercoat, prevents a frame from rusting - only temporarily. I've seen some other options coming by like linseed oil, which is sticky, wd40, which is greasy etc.
Now, I was going through some hotrod fora and noticed some bare metal bodies. After some searching I found out those guys use a spray called Gibbs to protect their bodies.
Might be of interest to anyone who either owns or would like to have a bare metal frame..
I think it'll work for polished parts/lugs too.http://www.gibbsbrandeurope.com
http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/Crossposting
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Soo sick!^
Btw, ^^Nice Björn.. Good to see you got that 25mm DA post.. My 2p, leave the Giotto bars (if they end up fitting) and Sug 75 levers on it.. Match the early era carbon vibe very well.. But on the other hand, I do understand your hankering for DA..;)
Cheers! Bars match the bike pretty well indeed, but as I said I want to get a proper bike fitting done. I found out the 105mm stem makes the reach just a bit too much for riding on the hoods, I think.
Might be because of the shape of the bars too, so I'll play with different stem and bars a little.
I bought the bike based on my inseam, so might be that my upper body is relatively smaller.Lust.
PM me if your ever want to sell it.If above doesn't work out, I will.
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Not completely on topic, but as this thread has lots of exposure, I thought this would be a good place to post.
As we know, with the recent trend of bare metal frames, clear paint, nor clear powdercoat, prevents a frame from rusting - only temporarily. I've seen some other options coming by like linseed oil, which is sticky, wd40, which is greasy etc.
Now, I was going through some hotrod fora and noticed some bare metal bodies. After some searching I found out those guys use a spray called Gibbs to protect their bodies.
Might be of interest to anyone who either owns or would like to have a bare metal frame..
I think it'll work for polished parts/lugs too.http://www.gibbsbrandeurope.com
http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/Gibbs Brand has proven itself to be able to penetrate gaps that are as small as one micron, one-millionth of an inch.
The viscosity of Gibbs Brand is lower than the viscosity of water.
Gibbs Brand is the only penetrant / lubricant / waterproofer on the market that undercoats metal and can be painted over. It is completely suitable for use in body shops and paint booths.
You can take some bare metal that has been treated with Gibbs Brand and touch it with a dirty hand without leaving a stain.
-Gibbs Brand leaves metal slippery, not sticky. Surfaces that have been treated with Gibbs will not attract dust or dirt. Any dust that does settle on metal that has been treated with Gibbs can easily be wiped off.
-Gibbs Brand can be used on all metals, including aluminum, brass, bronze, cast iron, copper, magnesium, titanium, and on all types of steel including chrome-moly, mild steel, stainless, and tool steel.
-In addition to working wonders on metals, Gibbs Brand has also been used successfully as a surface treatment on glass, leather, plastic, rubber, and wood.
-Classic car restoration shops use Gibbs Brand to protect master cylinders and many other bare metal surfaces on cars that have to look completely original when they are judged in competition.
-Cyclists use Gibbs Brand as an assembly lube on threads, for cleaning and protecting saddles, to add gloss to bare carbon fiber components, and as an extremely effective chain lubricant.
-Race car chassis builders use Gibbs Brand to protect bare metal frames, and many other race car parts.
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Opinion varies.
If the frame was in stealth black then yes, de-sticker the wheels too. With the frame looking like a billboard, you might as well go the whole team replica hog and carry massive adverts for CampagTrue, but I think it breaks it up well. And now you don't have the 2 typefaces clashing either. /aesthetics
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My anti for now:


Rolls Due thanks to Malaysian. DA seatpost and some Fizik Microtex soft tape on their way.
Next up a bike fitting and after that some new wheels and DA levers.
I was thinking Surly Fixxer, 'cause I don't see myself splashing out on some 7710 / Open Pro's just yet, but they don't seem to work on DA7400's ..Also the clearcoat is coming of and the decals are exactly pristine either, so I'm trying to duplicate them to get it redone.
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Reminds me of
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVCxMjgFvqk
I'll get my coat..




Cheers!
Time to bring out the ruler..