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Thanks! We've all but decided to have a new shower done. The previous owners had done such a shit job that we could only ever temporarily fix it...

Really stupid question: will grout hold to the smooth face of a tile? I suspect I know the answer, but it would be really handy if it did...

Edit: never mind. We've decided it's too fucked to fix so we're just gonna get the professionals in

My water kefir's gone a bit listless, hardly any fizz and it's obviously not eating all the sugar (still tastes mainly of sugar after 36 hours). Reckon I might have left it for too long in the hotter end of the summer and it's severely weakened - but it might just be because of the cold snap in the last week or so. Is there any better test to see if it's done for and needs to start again?

The arseholes who did up our flat before selling it to us didn't make the wall in the shower cubicle square before tiling it, so along the back side of the shower there's a gap between the tiles and the tray that starts at ~1cm and diminishes to 0 along the width of the shower tray. Below the height of the tray the gap is filled with expanding foam so no water is getting below the tray, but the foam has been covered with blobby flexi sealant that traps moisture and gets unsightly mould.

I'd like to tidy it up a bit. Would I be better off making a kind of runoff wedge out of grout as in the diagram below, and just closing the join between the grout and the tray with flexible sealant? Or just cover the whole width of the gap more neatly with sealant?

I just need it to be neat for a year or so before we build up the will to have the whole room redone.

Our main crop potatoes were fucked this year because (Scotland) it rained a lot in July (/Scotland) and they got pink rot. One of the neighbouring plots used mini grow bags, about 20l, and had a great haul so that's what we'll be doing next year.

I'm replacing my shower enclosure - the recommended fixing is a wallplug with a 6mm drill bit specified. I need to drill through tiles unfortunately. Should I use a 7 or 8mm tile bit and then use a 6mm normal bit in the wall once I'm through the tile? Or 6mm all the way?

It's only spare til December when the baby arrives... DIY is much easier when you've got a hard deadline!

Finally got round to putting shelves up in our hall cupboard this weekend. Borrowed a mate's track saw to cut the slats - I can't believe I've done all the rest of the DIY in the house without one. If I was starting a new big set of projects, I would definitely invest in one, and an impact driver...

Also can't believe we had all these boxes just piled up in our spare room for so long.

Fair enough, we're only tiling up about 8 inches off the top of the bath so we don't mind the extra thickness.

Are you planning to tile? We have a similar gap and we're planning to put some tile backing board across it, flush with the edge of the bath not the wall, and pack the wide gap behind it then fill the top of that.

Hey sorry dude for some reason I wasn't getting alerts from this thread. My plans have changed I'm afraid so I won't be going that way anytime soon!

But is it aerodynamic.

Meanwhile, if anyone needs something driven from London to Glasgow for a reasonable fee, let me know...

I'm driving from London to Glasgow in a smallish van on the weekend of the 22nd August - the van won't be full so if anyone has a need to move something from there to here I'd be happy to oblige for a small fee to offset the costs.

Thanks (and @Emyr). I reckon the price difference between A-A and A-B is about £100, which isn't so much more than the extra cost of fuel for the second leg if we drive - we might just suck up the difference in order to not have to drive both ways and to save a day's annual leave.

I'm looking to hire a small van for an A to B trip - pick up in London and drop off in Glasgow. Enterprise etc quotes come in around £300 for 3 days' hire. Does that sound about right? Or am I missing a trick, is there a service that specialises in A to B and has more reasonable prices?

Big fail for the new temporary cycling infrastructure in Glasgow: https://twitter.com/isersmalone/status/1280790122074603523

Might be better off posting this in the Glasgow subforum?

Neither - because I've been there so many times recently and I'm bored of it! Though the manager at my local branch is a bit of an arse and I always feel sorry for his employees when I go. I was just hoping to be able to use up something I've got at home.

I'm about to put in new skirting in my bathroom. Primed MDF skirting going onto painted plaster wall. I forgot to get a tube of gripfill etc. But I've got a lot of PVA and some vinyl flooring adhesive. Would either of these do? I'm also planning to screw/wallplug it occasionally as the wall isn't 100% straight.

Edit: I know that gripfill costs 2 quid. I just don't want to go to Screwfix.

My water kefir keeps getting a bit yeasty - foam on the top, and smelling a bit more beery than usual. It's not that much of an issue but I think it reduces the time I can store the kefir water, as the yeast converts the remaining sugars to alcohol and it starts to taste unpleasantly boozy after a few days.

I've moved it to a new super clean jar with a new muslin, but there's inevitably some yeast residue transferred with the grains. I'm sure it's just down to the weather, but I wonder if there's anything I can do to encourage the scoby to defeat the yeast?

Aah that makes sense. Thanks!

Thanks, that's what I thought... Internal corner, if that makes a difference.

I need to install some skirting board in my bathroom, and there's one corner where I'll need to cut the ends of the skirting to 45-ish degree angles so it matches up. But I don't have any power tools, and the skirting is too tall to use a hand saw cutting guide. Is there a nifty way of making this cut or do I need to borrow/invest in some kit?

I don't really fancy buying something I'll use for basically one cut. If it comes to it I guess I could fudge it with filler...

Edit: meant to post this in the DIY thread - moved.