-
The old marins were licensed from doug bradbury to use his rear shock system off his own manitou fs frames.
Marin actually had one of the first bikes with front suspension way before anyone else....they used a browning fork that had suspension inside the steerer but it was never released.The flex stems were awesome to ride until they started squeaking...they had so little travel that they couldn't dive...they just removed buzz.
It was the allsop frankenstem that the ritchey team used that could pitch you over the bars as it had way more travel.
That was the one - that Ritchey frame was amazing...
-
It was built back when MTB's didn't have suspension options beyond flex stems....people were experimenting with ways to soften the ride, save weight. For me personally, that was the most exciting time in MTB history....the ideas and innovation going on was far more interesting than the cad designed suspension frames that appear today.
Re. the back brake...there weren't exactly many brake options back then apart from cantis or u-brakes.Second this - some of the designs were nuts back then. I used to own a ProFlex which I guess was about the time that rear suspension frames started to standardise a bit more. I was flicking through an old MBUK magazine which had coverage of a trade show from the early 90's... there were some really different ideas knocking around.
The old Marins looked like they just used to mount Manitou forks on the back of the bike as their effective seatstay I seem to remember! Others had odd shaped elastomers or huge rubber donuts at various places on the frame...
And that Girvin stem was a shocker wasn't it? I never actually rode one, but I seem to remember hearing that if you went through a transition from a steep downhill to flat, it would compress and try to throw you over the bars :)
-
-
So it's ok to take the piss out of someone's bike, as long as they aren't a member?
It's obviously perfectly acceptable to take the piss out of non members bikes :)
Personally I wouldn't post someones bike who had tried to show it off in the projects page (or anywhere else), seems like good manners if nothing else.
-
Found something like I'm aiming for with the Klein:
http://www.oldklein.com/kleinit/AttitudeShiny.htm
I have carbon forks and seatpost, should I sprinkle it with anodised bits headset, seatpost clamp etc?
Always wanted a Klein, those Attitudes were serious bikes. Can't tell the vintage of yours (it's not one of the old 1 1/4" headsets is it?!) but looks great. Surely for period looks on a polished frame, it should be covered with as much purple anodising as you can get your hands on ;)
If you're going to refinish it, how about this?
http://www.oldklein.com/kleinit/AttitudeGraffiti92.htm -
-
-
i know it's crazy isn't it? apparently all replica aeroplanes of that era are made at 90%. it's something to do with insurance i believe. i really don't know too much about it. stranger still, once it's built it will be the only functioning spitfire in england (apparently)! there are several in museums but no working replicas. that to me is unbelievable.
That's interesting... what about the one that the RAF have (with the huricane and Lanc) that they roll out whenever one of our ruling classes has a significant birthday?
-
-
-
-
from my experience with downhill bikes and the forces put through discs the strength is no way a issue, i was running 200mm rotors at one point and had no problems at all and other times running a few bolts less and again still had no problems. if i had a disc mount cog set up i would bet my life that it would never break.
I'd agree with this - and add that I'd imagine the chain would break long before the sproket bolts go. The end result would obviously be the same, no brake or drive and not great, but just saying that those bolt on cogs look bomber.
-
Yup you're right.
Welded differently, but definately not fillet brazed. :)"And now a word about Cannondale's hallmark smooth weld bead. It's a common misconception that said weld bead requires sanding to achieve its smooth finish. In fact, the weld bead is smooth, right out of the weld booth. The smooth finish is created by a two-pass, puddle welding technique that Cannondale employs. Cannondale points out that their welding technique produces better penetration than welds that exhibit the typical "stack of dimes" appearance. Better penetration results in a stronger joint. Furthermore, the high and low spots on stack of dimes weld beads may act as stress risers—a potential compromise of weld durability."
aah yes, the good old 'two pass puddle' technique :)
-
Welded and filed smooth.
I seem to recall that 'Dale didn't used to file their welds - they welded them differently, something to do with heating the weld up more (or after it was completed) so that the material all sort of flowed into each other... I'm sure that description isn't quite right, but remember it was quite interesting at the time.
-
-
-
-
-

I think those shimano ^^ hubs from Velosolo are a great idea... It's possible to polish up the silver one a lot (saw this on a website somewhere, possibly velosolo) using the old oven cleaner / autosol method...